Oosh

I seem to remember some of the guys, at the first Vic club meet, saying good things about the high-end Ferodo's but don't quote me and i don't know what they're worth. First off do a search, i'm sure its been discussed before, then failing that ask some of the regular track day peoples (you be able to see based on the events forums).

Resistor pack even

GTR's run low-impedance injectors, the ECU wants to drive high-impedance ones, so a resistor pask in between ups the impedance. You can easily build one from JayCar 10W ceramic resistors for $10-20 depending on how neat you want it.

Bump!

Also try the computer reset trick, first go grab a tank full of BP Ultimate (any 98RON will do but i like BP) and take your car home, disconnect the negative from the battery, hold the brake pedal down for a min, then reconnect the battery and take her for a thrash. This all puts the ECU back in to self learn mode making slight adjustments to ignition. If you eliminate you shift habits, fuel quality, ECU reset as possible causes the next step is to check the timing.

another thing to check is the voltage of your electrics while the car is running, esp. under a bit of load, if your alternator has a dodgy regulator the voltage could be spiking too high and that can kill bulbs. Get a mutli-meter accross the ciggy lighter socket and take it for a burn, with a passenger keeping an eye on the reading, if you have fancy data-logging one you can do it by yourself. Just don't come back saying you crashed your car while looking at the meter rather than the road!

the most common culprit for this sort of thing with R32's is coil packs. there's a lot of thread regard these stalling/start up issue so search around...

They don't have much low down torque you need to keep it up in the rev range a bit, between shift changes do you: * Clutch in, change gear, clutch out, THEN get on the gas, OR * Clutch in, change gear, get on the gas and clutch out as the revs are rising? You need to be doing the latter, after having driven a V6 auto commo for the 3 years prior to getting my skyline it took me a little while to get out of habit of just putting the foot down and expecting something to happen, I'd just put it in to gear then put the foot down and it reacted very sluggishly just as you're describing. But maybe that was just me.

what're the offsets?

In my experience most ants taste spicy...

Have you checked to see if you're getting any spark? DISCLAIMER: While i have performed this myself and believe the below to be correct i am NOT a mechanic, I'm a backyard tinkerer, you do it all at your own risk. Just take it slowly and be methodical, don't rush anything, but if you're not confident in your abilities resign yourself to paying a mechanic to do it for you. 1. Disconnect power to the injectors (pretty sure they're grouped in to 3's and there's 2 plugs power them just trace the wires back and unplug). 2. Pull the coil packs off the spark plugs, leave the coils on those 2 rails in groups of 3, just undo the rails and lift. 3. Check your spark plugs now if you haven't already. If there's nothing obviously wrong with the plugs put them back in and move on. 4. Pull all the rubber boots off the 6 coil packs, be careful the spings don't fall out the end, it CAN happen. 5. IMPORTANT! Use something to mark the position of Crank Angle Sensor (a blob of whiteout overlapping the CAS and timing cover works). 6. Undo the 3 bolts and pull the CAS off. 7. Rest the coil packs so they're tips are a short distance from, but NOT touching, the head or anywhere that's well earthed. 8. Turn the ignition to ON (don't try and start it!). 9. Take the CAS in your hand with the little "stick" facing you and rotate that stick ANTI-CLOCKWISE. You should get sparks leaping from the tips of the coils to the rocker cover one by one over and over. If indiviual coils spark sometimes and not others make sure there's a clear and clean path for it to spark to and from and that you're not turning it clockwise as it sparks unpredicatbly when you do. To put it all back in, turn off the ignition, and go in reverse taking care with CAS, manipulate the stick until it slots over and the whole thing slides on, don't force it, then line those marks you made back up otherwise your timing will be out. Plug the injectors back in etc etc.

Google for "Irfanview" it's freeware and has batch processing features, throw a bunch of picks at, set the size / % and it'll do the lot automatically.

Personally I think you're better off with the stock air box and a good panel filter and cold air intake, but if you must run a pod then you DEFINATLEY need to shield it, esp. in a hot climate like Brissy. Take a look at the CAI thread stickied at the top of this forum.

are you talking about pods here or stock air boxes? Pod, certainly, i wouldn't consider running one without some sort of partion/shield and a CAI. Airbox, highly doubtful, but it wouldn't hurt.

I'm not disputing you got a fine but i was under the impression you couldn't get "on the spot" fines because it had to be tested properly. Even their website pretty much says as much... I say fix up your exhaust, take it to an approved tester, then dispute the fine and send the test results in. If they CAN issue on the spot fines then you might get away with this ONCE, so i suggest you don't just swap the noisy one back, invest in a good flowing LEGAL exhaust they do exist.

if visiual inspection of the intercooler piping turns up nothing, try this: get a spray bottle full of water and a little detergent, spray it over all the hose clamps etc. give her rev and any bubbles will show there's a leak. Hope it is something simple like a boost leak.

If cars are parked long enough in spots they shouldn't be the council WILL just take them away and you mightn't get much if any warning. Happened to a mate's kingswood, it got canaried for sitting there and we were getting ready to tow it and then it disappeared, it was POS so he didn't pursue it.

another pimp of Ant Rid right here, the stuff is pretty effective, i wouldn't go bug bombing your car those things are made for whole rooms (and usually empty ones at that) you'll never get the smell out.

Well then maybe we'll be able to see each other over the forest of short arses as i'm pretty tall myself...

Yeap, that's why i've got my spare one, but it's staying here as a spare. I'd be happy to lend it out but i think the distance in this case coudl make things impracticle.

It's a shit load of work, you need some pretty dedicated people to get it going, but i'm sure if you spoke to some of the Vic guys, "Snowman", "Adzmax", "R31Nismoid", etc. they'll be able to give you some tips. The CAMS accreditation is the important thing, without that you've not got much more than a mothers meeting, but with cars.

I went to Shitzenface '03 was a fun day, shame i'm not moving over until 29th else i'd be in, guess i'll just wait for '06. *sigh*

always happens until you run it and save-settings. also you need to download the 1.7Mb zip at the top of the thread THEN replace the default exe with f revision exe (~400kb). I got the f by itslef and it confused teh crap outta me.

Well unless you all have SAU tatoo'd on your foreheads and i can pick you out in a crowd it'd be nice to meet up with some of you beforehand. So if there's a SAU pre-meet up i want in!

I'm moving over the Adelaide in a couple of weeks so if there's a group of SAU-SA people going to spectate or compete it'd be good to organise something and meet up with some fellow 'liners.