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Oosh

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Posts posted by Oosh

  1. RIPS on sdu makes a very nice intake plenum/manifold for the rb20.

    as far as the greddy bit even on greddy's japanese page there is no rb20 intake manifold listed.

    Soon as they approve me i'll go have a sniff around the darkside... :)

  2. Are you SURE it's the gearbox? Both mine and RowdyR32's cars suffer from diff whine (his is worse :D).

    Although ours is only really noticable in 5th gear, when cruising at certain speeds between 80-100 KPH, slow down or speed a couple of kays and it lessens?

    Edit:

    Oh and i should add, he changed oil, got it serviced (if they did anything), and still it whines... without replacing it, and you might get another whiner, you could have to live with it. :D

  3. I believe the term is "dose it" and add a few "bro", "mate", "fully", "sik", etc...

    So very sad, i think i'm gonna start making and selling sound-effects kits, shove a speaker under the bonnet and you can get:

    * "Turbo Induction Noise"

    * "Super Blow-Off PSSSST!!!"

    * "Dose" (also known as "flutter" or "flooder"/"fludder")

    All at the touch of a button, wrapped in fake carbon fibre, covered in LEDs, neons and UV!

    GUARANTEED TO ADD 25RWKW!!!

    I reckon they'd fly out of Autobarn at a cost of $599!!!

  4. probably because a four cylinder is quicker than an RB20..... thats why i have one  :Bang:

    Then a single cylinder 2Litre must be sik! :D

    There's a fair bit more to power figures than number of cylinders (and displacement for that matter), infact a 4cyl vs. 6cyl is more likely to have MORE TORQUE but LESS POWER. Torque gets you off the line so in a traffic light drag like this the 6 is probably at a disadvantage. Power is essentially RPM x TORQUE so the 6 which revs better has the higher power figure.

    There are so many variables in a situation like this, the diff being a big one, in any car if all you changed was that to run a higher ratio than stock you'll give plenty of other cars a good run. You might just top-out @ 140 kph though! :D

    P.S. Well done the FJ20, having been in my ex-gf's little bros bluey with one i know they have some serious power, but i'll stay with my RB20 for all the aforementioned reasons (age/parts/etc.)

  5. R34 followed closely by R32 and R33 sitting firmly last.

    Considering i don't have the ca$h for a R34 it's a R32 for me.

    Personal preference, but in stock guise the R33 is just too round and bulbous for my liking, i love the free revs of my RB20DET but i really wouldn't be complaining about an extra 0.5L and some more compression if i could get it.

  6. I just got that exact kit, but for $995 as part of a christmas special on NissanSilvia forums, seems pretty good quality but be prepared to cut a hole in the side below your battery and butcher your stock bar to get it all to fit.

    Mine was missing the promised templates but you can work it all out easy enough.

  7. Alot of racers do this to pic up boost leaks or damaged cores.

    That i can understand, but you'd be better off with a pressure differential gauge, plump the base signal in as close to the turbo as possible, and the other at the same spot as your regular boost gauge.

    Then more than a couple PSI drop registering and you know you've got probs. Beats having 2 gauges and doing the mental arithmetic while trying to pilot a car at high speed!

    Yes i know technically a regular boost gauge is differential, with the base pressure being the atmosphere, but you can't (easily) change it.

  8. Zoom, irrespective what you think of them, did tests on RB20 with the stock Vs. GTR inlet manifold and plenum, and the GTR item performed far WOSRE than the stocker.

    When you've only got 2ltrs of swept volume having good tuned length inlet runners, to boost low down torque, is kinda important!

    If you're trying to make piping simpler for your FMIC you're going to need to get a custom inlet made by someone who REALLY knows what they're doing! $$$

    Just stick with front cross over pipe or bending under the intercooler option, i prefer the former, but the later is simpler to install and looks more stock.

  9. will it matter if i extend that line a little and make it longer so i can fit the boost guage T aswell as the Boost Controller T on it?

    If the hose is too long it will, the longer the hose the slower the response to a boost change, the hosing expands, and with a greater volume of air inside it, dampening the change.

    So don't make it too long as your wastegate actuator will take longer to react, and might result in more boost spikes, which kinda defeats your purpose as i understand it.

  10. Hi guys, having built quite a few electronics kits over the years I have found the Silicone Chip ones can be relied upon to do exactly what they are designed to do.  I am not a Julian Edger fan, but he did a lot of research and real world testing on these items.  So I have a fair bit of faith that they will do as specified on the Stagea.

    Over the Xmas break I am building;

    the boost controller $80

    the hand controller $60

    the fuel adjuster $80

    For a total cost of $220 (around half what an SAFC costs) I get to program, control and monitor, too good a deal to dismiss lightly.  I will publish the results (inc dyno sheets) when all is finished.

    Merry Xmas to all:cheers:

    You can always be relied upon SK, good (future) work :), despite my previous comments I'll be VERY interested in your results.

  11. brilliant! very funny thread...

    I miss the good old days when the cameras were those big blue boxes 10 metres out in front of the car and it was sooo easy to spot them... everyone would be flashing their lights ets... those sneaky dash mounted ones are bloody hard to spot if they are parked on the same side of the road as your driving...

    They're still blue, theyr'e still big (about the size of 2 large shoe boxes on top of each other), they're still deployed a few metres in front of the car (they toyed with nudge-bar mounted flashes but they were scrapped) and they're still FLASH UNITS, not cameras!

    But, it isn't always used nowadays, if the light level is good why stick a flash out there?

    Other than the tripod mount, which is almost never used, the camera has always been in the car and on the dash.

  12. hi all

    since the rb20det turbo is weak and cannot go above 13psi, where closest to the turbo would you put in a boost guage?

    theres no point in putting one off the plenum as it will read less up there than down near the turbo...

    any photos will be helpful

    thanks

    Why'd you want it READ higher, the actual boost your engine see's won't change any, is it so you can look like you're running more boost?

    If so get a tyre valve, attach it to you boost gauge line, then go to the servo and pump as much "boost" as you like in to your gauge.

    "Hey look fellas, 20PSI and it's not even running!"

    Please take the above post in the light-hearted, fun-poking, way it was intended. :rofl:

    Edit: Oh and if you do go ahead with the install, why not try to T from the line running to the wastegate actuator, i believe that sources its pressure "signal" from pretty close to the turbo?

  13. As a resident, (I live within 5 minutes of the track, and hear everything that goes on) I would prefer that the track is opened once a month so people can "get it out of their system" rather than turning Westall Rd into their own personal drag strip.

    Unfortunately you're probably in a distinct minority.

    Everybody thinks these things are "a good idea" but also suffer from a severe case of NIMBY (Not In My Back Yard).

    You see it everywhere! Example: They've been trying to get a BMX/Skate park setup in my area for ages, the council agreed to it, all the residents say yes in principle, but as soon as it's propsed within 1km of their house they suddenly get VERY vocal in opposition.

    Edit: Another thing that shits me is when people move to a housing development near an airport cause it's cheap, then air traffic increases over the years (big suprise!), and suddenly their up in arms. ffs you moved next to an airport, deal with it, the council should make all residents in those areas sign something when they move in.

  14. Funniest thing i seen in my life was this old wog guy haha i went for a walk with my missus one afternoon..and this guy.. he must have ran the camera ....  cause the guy pulled over in his XF.. walked up to the box ... and started kicking the shit out of the camera.. spat at it.. and walked back to his car yelling some sort of abuse... he must have been atleast 60-65 years old..lol

    i couldnt walk after that.. i had to sit down for atleast 10 minutes... i was crying from laughter

    The box is actually the flash, the camera's in the car on the passenger side dash, and they cop it a fair bit.

    i agree that abusing or giving them greif isnt going to do anything but neither is ur local MP... im sorry but a local pleb isnt going to be able to do shit when things like this earn the government so much money... just keep puting up signs :(

    True about the MP, then vote Bracks out (doubt much will change tho), or why not write a letter to the editor of like everyone else! ;)

    I don't have that much trouble spotting mobiles because i'm on "heightened alert" when I'm bending the rules :(. I don't HABITUALLY speed.

    As for the fixed intersections ones, they all have "Speed Camera in Area" signs up at all 4 approaches (even though they only cover one), not to mention speeding through intersections is approaching suicidal with the number of dicks who run reds.

    And everyone knows the tunnels are full of them so it amazes me anyone is stupid enough to get caught there.

    So on the balance it's not that hard to have a little "fun" and avoid a fine the only ones that worry me are cops with lasers.

  15. Why would it need to resize the image? unless you're viewing it on some crappy 15" LCD with 1024x768 or below resolution?  I view the forums at 1600x1200 on a 22" screen, no problems here ;)

    He could have been trying to open it in a small window and not maximised it, shit i dunno, just trying to be helpful. Congrats on your hi-res and large screen btw! :(

  16. I'm certainly interested in the speedo adjuster since i have a 4.3:1 diff.

    Now for $80 the boost controller looks good, but it's another $60 for the hand-contoller, so if that's ALL you use for it's now $140 for a boost controller.

    If you don't have a boost solenoid you'll need one of those too.

    THEN you have to set it up, which if you don't have some sort of RPM/Speed and Boost data-logging is going to be a hit and miss affair, relying more on gut feel than real data, for on road tuning. Therefore most people will require dyno time for the setup which equals more money.

    Suddenly a secondhand HKS EVC, or similar, with self-learning (which just needs a backstreet to give it a good thrash) doesn't look so expensive. Not to mention they're a proven unit.

    Now i think it's great there's some aussie outfits getting in to this for a good price, and you could save a bit by sharing hand-controllers etc, but you need to look at the TOTAL costs associated with these things. Also i can GUARANTEE you which one will hold its resale value the better.

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