Oosh
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Posts posted by Oosh
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Skipping the cruise is a good idea, individually and collectively we should all be doing our best to keep Skylines out of the news, considering the number of HiPo car stacks of late a pontential SAU pile up would be an enormously bad thing (over and above the normal consequences) for the community.
Hopefully I'll make it tonight, if i get my front bar back on or scam a lift off RowdyR32 (that's if he's going), not sure if i'll be signing up since i'm moving to Adelaide for 12 months next year but i WILL be after a sticker!
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Have you given the ECU fault codes a look yet?
There's instructions on how to display and interpret them, I can't find them right now, have a search for yourself or hopefully someone else can point you in the right direction. Doing thsi first COULD save you a lot of time.
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I'm moving to Adelaide at the start of Feb, so on the off-chance you still have this gear, i'll be interested (esp. steering wheel).
Cheers.
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Grafted on... there is a prelude in sydney with R32 rear lights yuk!
I hate all sohc V6 commodore engines, and their wheezing painful existance.
I can't rid of mine quick enough, and boy does it wheeze, sounds like it's going to explode when rev'd past 3500 RPM. And it's in good nick for a 12 yo Commo!
Feels like the biggest bucket of sloppy sh!t when i jump in it compared to Skyline!
Anyway i digress, my biggest hatred is Washer LEDs, nothing irks me more.
I also hate crome hub caps, fake discs, and stock lancers with big rims showing of those AWESOME rear drums!
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http://shop.fabre.com.au/store/products/it...em113.inetstore
I THINK this is the one, doesn't explicitly say Skyline anywhere but since Ryco list their A360 as suitable for VN-VT V6 and all the RB Skylines, i say it'd be a safe bet. I'm still measuring mine when i get home though.
To ANY Vics thinking of getting one of these, freight seems to be $13 for orders of 1 or 100, save a few bucks and order together.
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It should be behind that little grill, just as the centre-console surround heads vertical, and check there's no tears in that heat-proof Al foil stuff it's warpped in so it's only picking up the air not radiant heat from your stereo etc.
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Area: Beaumaris
Location: Church St
Details: Southern end, at the intersection with Balcombe Rd, in the southbound lane. Just before you turn ther is a BIG sink hole, they're already filled it once, and it all sunk in AGAIN.
Area: Mentone
Location: Como Pde West
Details: Heading from the round-about through the shops, immediately after the pedestrian crossing there is man-hole sunk in the surrounding road, keep well left and avoid the temptation to cut in to the turn lane and it should pass safely under the centre of your car.
The aforementioned Mentone Bunnings is a killer, come in the same entrance to the service road but avoid the first driveway into the carpark and head the next one 50-100 metres along.
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Southland shopping centre in Cheltenham apparently ahs one of the highest car theft rates in Vic. The worst area is in the far corner by the train line and Bay Rd, it's quite isolated with no through traffic, avoid it people.
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Try the fault codes immediatley after it happens, if a sensos is faulty/loose it should show up, definately soudns like you're dropping to "limp home" map though.
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The Aus Lexus Soarer Club guys did some tests on Toyota OEM filter vs. K&N, they found while the OEM had marginally less flow the filtration was streets ahead of the K&N, they flow so well at great expense to filtration. Fine dust WILL get in to your engine, so long as you change oil regular it might'd be a problem, but...
Obviously this is another car manufacturer but Nissan didn't cut many corners on the Skyline so why not trust them with the air filter? I'd try to source an OEM item.
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Yeah i was gonna say check the temp sensor, it's in the same general area.
MrGTS4: Check you sensor isn't near something hot.
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kinda givs it a 350z look
First thing i thought too... not sure if that's a good or bad thing, i'm undecided.
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MAF-less tunes end up higher power when you've been maxing the AFM out, so you ignore it and tune soley on MAP, but as a general rule it ends up in being a worse "tune" as you have less resolution.
Now i stress the word "general", some are fine, with all these things it comes down to the quality of the tuner. As a side note, some of the 300 odd KW HSVs use a MAF-less tune whereas the regular GENIII variants use MAF (and possibly MAP).
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fun it off a vacum pipe from the intake plenum to see how much boost reaches the engine.
ps. skylines don't have map sensors they are air flow meters.
That's exactly where the "MAP sensor" is hooked up to, now call it what you want but that black box on the firewall reads engine pressure/vacuum, so my guess is both the ECU and std gauge read from it.
MAP & MAF tuning are not mutually exclusive, you can run a car with both, and my understanding is that's exactly what a RB20DET does. But, i am by no means an expert, and happy to stand corrected if presented with an authorative source.
Edit: btw HCR32, you're very welcome, happy to help.
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Am about to sell off the exhaust manifold, so anyone after the "package", get in quick...
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it the steering wheel is the leather one and in ok condition
consider it sold,
i want pics 1st though
Next in line for steering wheel, if silver gts-t falls thru, cheers.
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Yeh! The RB26 engine realli need the remote filter kit. But the Trust one cost 260 and the labour fee gonna cost like two hour to install it. so that gonna be like another 100 or maybe more. And for the GTR, of course it need a oil cooler in the furture and the oil cooler kit which included the remote filter adaptor. So I decide to do that next year. Just have to do that once. Dont have to waste money. But the thing I want to say is GTR is what I called " money drinker". The GTS that I had b4 wasn't spent money like that. hehe....
$260, where? I've been in touch with Dan from ModYourCar about stocking these (and other engines) and he's got Greddy items up for $350, but that's a fair bit more than the price you're talking.
Also if you're game enough to change an oil filter, you can fit a remote kit, so why pay $100 to get it fitted. You'll only have to go thru the pain of removing the standard setup once.
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Further my sitch, finally took the centre cover off the other night and fired her up, nice little ligthenng show coming out of coils 1, 2, & 5. I have another complete set of coil-packs from my previous engine, swapped it over and the difference is night and day!
It still needs a little bit of gas at startup, but after that it idles no worries, i all also woound the idle screw on the back of the AAC housing out some as well.
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Good questions Oosh,
snip .... /snip
Impakt
Thanks for your answers, if you COULD leave my LCD unattached, i think i will give this a go but please include the wires you would use just in case i decide to go back to stock.
As for speed, it'd need to be altered by a factor of 0.95, i.e. display 95kmh when it's detecting it as 100kmh.
Some further questions:
1. Just how small a fee?
2. Could i keep the original speed variable? i.e. have a Speed1 and Speed2 var.
3. Will either option (modified or 2 vars) effect compatibility with any of the softwares esp. data loggers?
Cheers.
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Couple more questions, thought this'd be a better spot for it, share the info. and avoid clogging your PM inbox Impakt.
1. What are physical dimensions of the screen?
2. How difficult would it be, for some one with moderate skills, to solder a ribbon cable between the box and screen (say ~30cm length)?
2a. Would the above detrimentally effect the units operation?
The above comes about from the desire to mount the screen in a small space necessitating it's detachment from the box.
3. What's the feasibility of having the display all come up backwards, mirrored, so it could be placed on the dash and used as a Heads-Up-Display?
A switch to choose between Normal/Mirror would be IDEAL!
4. How would, or could, you go about dicking with the speed signal? I ask because i have an auto diff (4.3:1) in a manual car (normally 4.11:1 diff) so my speedo is out, this way i could have an accurate reading.
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im no butcher! the sandpaper is the best method of all of them but it was overlooked! try it you will be surprised!
I've had both my tools fail and resorted to the ol' screwdriver, but next time i'm trying rubber jar opener AND sandpaper, reckon it'd work well...
Edit: On re-readin that post, i thought i better reiterate i am DEFINATELY talking about removing oil filters, and NOTHING else. :aroused:
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bought my ae86 for $650 you can spend the extra 12k on mods
Failing that import a 1989 R32 GTS (N/a), you can get one for about 10k on the road with no more work necessary with pocket change.
I got my '89 GTST with Tein HA suspension, 3" exhaust, chipped, HICAS lock and stereo, for around 12K on road (10.5K car, 800 new engine, 300 stamp duty, 600 insure).
Paint's a bit rough, but there's no "damage", so surely a GTS is easy sub-10K else sounds a bit steep to me, but if people are paying it...
Edit: That wasn't imported, bought locally here in Melb, so with RWC it's stacks less hassle than importing. And you actually get to test-drive it yourself.
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RowdyR32 ground it out with a die-grinder on my RB20DET.
It did the job without ill-effect, cut through it, squeez it, and lever it out. Sure it leaves a bit of a mark on the housing but grind the worst of the sharp dags smooth and clean up all the fillings.
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U13 Bluebird SSS, nice car, 2.4L so a good bit of power for a N/A, plenty of fun to be had in manual form.
Snippet from local paper (SE)
in Victoria
Posted
If you're running IE make sure you don't have Auto Image resizing on, one of the more annoying default "features" it comes with, in the menu go:
Tools -> Internet Options -> Advanced (Tab)
and scroll down and disable the option shown in the attachement below.
- Ash.