Oosh

Before i even saw your options i was going to suggest "Midnight Purple". If my 32 ever gets a colour change it'll be to that!

At a guess I'd say, YES, but there's been a few 300ZX's with RB26DETT conversions which even though they're VG30DETT's might give you some clues. But, I think you're entering uncharted terittory (other than JGTC teams).

Nissan Cedric 1995 1996 1997 1999 2000 2001 Cima 1996 1997 1998 2001 2002 Gloria 1995 1996 1997 1999 2000 2001 Leopard 1996 1997 According to http://english.auto.vl.ru all of those had VQ30DET (don't think all were Neos) but all i've found so far are models with AT or CVT no MT as yet. Edit: That site shows '99+ Cedrics had the NEO too so there's another source for you.

Exhaust manifold is gone, pending payment (Sun-Mon), and price drop to $100 accordingly.

Then you have a whole new set of issues to resolve, i personally really like the IDEA of Air-Water but, with pumps, pump control, reservoirs, heatsoak, and one cracking really scares the sh!t out of me!

yeah, they stock the York valve mentioned in the Autospeed article, at least they DID ~18 months ago.

Soon as they approve me i'll go have a sniff around the darkside...

PM sent. Everyone, I'd just like to say what great help and how accomodating Impakt has been, very good person to deal with and highly recommended! Can't wait to get my new toy to play with!

yeah, i went looking a couldn't find any RB20 ones, if you find a supplier please give them a mention here.

Are you SURE it's the gearbox? Both mine and RowdyR32's cars suffer from diff whine (his is worse ). Although ours is only really noticable in 5th gear, when cruising at certain speeds between 80-100 KPH, slow down or speed a couple of kays and it lessens? Edit: Oh and i should add, he changed oil, got it serviced (if they did anything), and still it whines... without replacing it, and you might get another whiner, you could have to live with it.

I believe the term is "dose it" and add a few "bro", "mate", "fully", "sik", etc... So very sad, i think i'm gonna start making and selling sound-effects kits, shove a speaker under the bonnet and you can get: * "Turbo Induction Noise" * "Super Blow-Off PSSSST!!!" * "Dose" (also known as "flutter" or "flooder"/"fludder") All at the touch of a button, wrapped in fake carbon fibre, covered in LEDs, neons and UV! GUARANTEED TO ADD 25RWKW!!! I reckon they'd fly out of Autobarn at a cost of $599!!!

Then a single cylinder 2Litre must be sik! There's a fair bit more to power figures than number of cylinders (and displacement for that matter), infact a 4cyl vs. 6cyl is more likely to have MORE TORQUE but LESS POWER. Torque gets you off the line so in a traffic light drag like this the 6 is probably at a disadvantage. Power is essentially RPM x TORQUE so the 6 which revs better has the higher power figure. There are so many variables in a situation like this, the diff being a big one, in any car if all you changed was that to run a higher ratio than stock you'll give plenty of other cars a good run. You might just top-out @ 140 kph though! P.S. Well done the FJ20, having been in my ex-gf's little bros bluey with one i know they have some serious power, but i'll stay with my RB20 for all the aforementioned reasons (age/parts/etc.)

http://www.google.com/press/zeitgeist.html Popular Cars 2004 1. ferrari 2. bmw 3. lamborghini 4. nissan skyline 5. porsche 6. mercedes 7. honda civic 8. mustang 9. toyota supra 10. mitsubishi eclipse Makes you feel warm and fuzzy too be up there with the likes of ferrari and lambo!

R34 followed closely by R32 and R33 sitting firmly last. Considering i don't have the ca$h for a R34 it's a R32 for me. Personal preference, but in stock guise the R33 is just too round and bulbous for my liking, i love the free revs of my RB20DET but i really wouldn't be complaining about an extra 0.5L and some more compression if i could get it.

I just got that exact kit, but for $995 as part of a christmas special on NissanSilvia forums, seems pretty good quality but be prepared to cut a hole in the side below your battery and butcher your stock bar to get it all to fit. Mine was missing the promised templates but you can work it all out easy enough.

Trouble with the speed pickup? Could be anywhere between gearbox, ECU, dash.

That i can understand, but you'd be better off with a pressure differential gauge, plump the base signal in as close to the turbo as possible, and the other at the same spot as your regular boost gauge. Then more than a couple PSI drop registering and you know you've got probs. Beats having 2 gauges and doing the mental arithmetic while trying to pilot a car at high speed! Yes i know technically a regular boost gauge is differential, with the base pressure being the atmosphere, but you can't (easily) change it.

Zoom, irrespective what you think of them, did tests on RB20 with the stock Vs. GTR inlet manifold and plenum, and the GTR item performed far WOSRE than the stocker. When you've only got 2ltrs of swept volume having good tuned length inlet runners, to boost low down torque, is kinda important! If you're trying to make piping simpler for your FMIC you're going to need to get a custom inlet made by someone who REALLY knows what they're doing! $$$ Just stick with front cross over pipe or bending under the intercooler option, i prefer the former, but the later is simpler to install and looks more stock.

If the hose is too long it will, the longer the hose the slower the response to a boost change, the hosing expands, and with a greater volume of air inside it, dampening the change. So don't make it too long as your wastegate actuator will take longer to react, and might result in more boost spikes, which kinda defeats your purpose as i understand it.

You can always be relied upon SK, good (future) work , despite my previous comments I'll be VERY interested in your results.

They're still blue, theyr'e still big (about the size of 2 large shoe boxes on top of each other), they're still deployed a few metres in front of the car (they toyed with nudge-bar mounted flashes but they were scrapped) and they're still FLASH UNITS, not cameras! But, it isn't always used nowadays, if the light level is good why stick a flash out there? Other than the tripod mount, which is almost never used, the camera has always been in the car and on the dash.

Why'd you want it READ higher, the actual boost your engine see's won't change any, is it so you can look like you're running more boost? If so get a tyre valve, attach it to you boost gauge line, then go to the servo and pump as much "boost" as you like in to your gauge. "Hey look fellas, 20PSI and it's not even running!" Please take the above post in the light-hearted, fun-poking, way it was intended. Edit: Oh and if you do go ahead with the install, why not try to T from the line running to the wastegate actuator, i believe that sources its pressure "signal" from pretty close to the turbo?

Unfortunately you're probably in a distinct minority. Everybody thinks these things are "a good idea" but also suffer from a severe case of NIMBY (Not In My Back Yard). You see it everywhere! Example: They've been trying to get a BMX/Skate park setup in my area for ages, the council agreed to it, all the residents say yes in principle, but as soon as it's propsed within 1km of their house they suddenly get VERY vocal in opposition. Edit: Another thing that shits me is when people move to a housing development near an airport cause it's cheap, then air traffic increases over the years (big suprise!), and suddenly their up in arms. ffs you moved next to an airport, deal with it, the council should make all residents in those areas sign something when they move in.

Will check it out when my unit arrives, from Impakt, which should be very soon.

Is the FMIC kit the type with a crossover pipe like mine below? If it is it COULD be your fan hitting on the underside of that pipe, minde did that and i just pushed that pipe further in the to rubber hosing connecting it to the top pipe, and generally manipulated it until it didn't happen any more.