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Posts posted by Oosh
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Hope I covered all of your questions:cheers:
Thanks, some how i missed the email saying i had a reply, but all is well now...
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PM Sent.
FREE BUMP!
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Get a small T from Supercheap, and T it just before the MAP sensor, as for tubing just get something similar to the existing stuff going in to the MAP sensor.
If you're not sure what the MAP sensor is, it's a little black box on teh firewall on the drivers side under the hood.
All mine is held on with cable ties with no worries, get hose clamps though if you're worried.
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length isn't the only concern, it's the amount of turns in the piping, the 2nd way has less twists and turns therefore less pressure loss.
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Availability on a pair of these (in black as shown): seatcoverskyline.jpg and freight cost to Melbourne please.
Cheers.
See above please...
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I would not loose any sleep . Garrett do two CHRA's very similar to the 2530 , one is from the GT28RS (better 60mm compressor) and one called the GTR upgrade CHRA . In fact garrett do a similar if not identical turbo to the 2530 for direct fitment to the RB26 .
The GTRS is only badge engineering on a 2871R (see ATP Turbo.com) both are streets ahead of the HKS GT2540 which was garbage anyway .
Any one with tap into HKS will find they had an exclusive tie with Garrett to produce certain combinations of compressor and turbines . This would have had a sunset clause and competition issues would have stuffed it for HKS . So you'll find all these things being sold round the world by Garrett (who makes them anyway) for less than HKS thievery .
Cheers A .
The whole Garrett / HKS connection has been done to death, there's a HUGE thread around here somewhere about it, and summation seems to be:
Yes, HKS are Garrett items, but in unique combinations and specs you can't buy from Garret direct.
If you want to discuss it further i suggest revive the aforementioned thread.
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Also the car had done 178K at the time of the engine's removal.
That's what the speedo read, chances are that's the K's on the engine, it's had a 5spd conversion but the motor should have stayed the same.
Just so you're aware, i have an offer on the exhaust manifold, but as mentioned anyone taking the the lot will get preference.
Please don't take TOO long deciding and you're welcome to come look at it if you feel the need.
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Hi all,
At the moment i have one left which is on the way to the USA, i have ordered some more parts and will have another 20 or so available by the end of the year. Also, if any of you guys dont mind me quoting your responses on the device for another site please let me know!
Impakt
Add me to the waiting list, pricing still the same?
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How many Kms on the turbo, any shaft play?
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99% of the braces out there seem to be of the "hinged" type, a bar, pins at each end attached to plates screwed to the strut-tops.
Then there's the one on Nigel's Supra (picture attached) which has solid welds to the strut-top plates.
My thoughts would be the later offers a stiffer setup, as the hinged-type stop stuts moving apart = /, or together = / , but they wouldn't stop both moving the same direction = / / or . Whereas the solid-type would.
Now can anyone tell me how much, if any, of deal is this?
And why not throw the 3-anchor point type, 3rd one on the firewall, in to the mix too?
And does anyone know of a supplier for the solid-type as i've yet to see one?
Cheers.
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Availability on a pair of these (in black as shown): seatcoverskyline.jpg and freight cost to Melbourne please.
Cheers.
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No drilling if fitting to an R32 like it is designed for.
It will stiffen up your chassis. The more modified your suspension, the more benefit a chassis brace will be
Where does it bolt on to then?
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Anyone?
Open to offers....
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I believe it's a KW-XC838
Link: http://www.jvc-australia.com/products/_pro...ils.asp?ID=1185
Shame, i really want a seperate sub-out else i'd be hard-pressed not to buy this...
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Pics sent to all above.
Open to reasonable offers.
thanks
Thank you fro the pictures, however, could you please answer my above questions also.
Cheers.
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Any more info. on the muffler, i.e. Inlet piping diameter, muffler body size, age, etc?
Pics appreciated also if you have them (will PM you my email).
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be thankful it didn't take out the cooler too...
hit a wombat, and you'll know about it - they are BIG BASTARDS
Yeah i reckon you're average wombat is about 50% concrete w/w!
They demolish cars at speed.
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Cant help you with shops unless you are in Melbourne
But by the sounds of it you CAN help me!
So who's good in Melb, south-east preferably...
Cheers.
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They can detect the camera van but only while it's taking a photo of someone. Not much good if you're the only one speeding.
Edit: Raistlin, I'm sorry for the thread hijack by the way...
Actually the Radar units use a CONSTANT WAVE, therefore they constantly emit detectable energy, the majority of it is concentrated in the main lobe which faces from the front of unit. Most are slant-radar and go ~20 degrees from parallel to the road.
So you're most likely to detect them as you approach head-on, however, traffic radar is not mil-spec kit so they emit a fair amount of energy in to their side-lobes too, which makes them detectable from behind.
Image of radar lobes here, not sure what it's from but you can get the idea, imagine the 0C point facing out from the front of the camera car angled in to the road.
Laser, or LIDAR, which is the hand-helds the cops use is only on when they hold the trigger down. So you get far less warning when they target you. They typically have to hold it on you for 3 secs so if the laser warning goes off you've gotta hit the skids QUICK before they get a good reading.
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what does it pick up? fixed cameras and handhelds?
The only thing that can warn you of fixed camera, apart from the signs, is something like road angel which stores their GPS co-ords. Fixed units DO NOT transmit any Radar/Lidar energy to detect they use sensors in the road.
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Bump.
Will consider offers on manifolds seperately but anyone after the lot will get preference.
Also the car had done 178K at the time of the engine's removal.
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If they're hear in Oz, preferably Melb, I'll take them.
If not in Melb what's the postage?
Help for changing the oil filter for RB26 engine.
in General Maintenance
Posted
Yeah, used one of them, and got away with it!
I alos picked up a sorta rounded-triangular hinged jobby from my grandpa's garage, works a LOT better than the steel belt type tools.