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Oosh

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Posts posted by Oosh

  1. Sneak into the kitchen and grab the gripper thingy from tupperware that the lady of the house uses to open tight screw tops. Make sure you wash it thoroughly after and hope not to get caught.

    Yeah, used one of them, and got away with it! ;)

    I alos picked up a sorta rounded-triangular hinged jobby from my grandpa's garage, works a LOT better than the steel belt type tools.

  2. Get a small T from Supercheap, and T it just before the MAP sensor, as for tubing just get something similar to the existing stuff going in to the MAP sensor.

    If you're not sure what the MAP sensor is, it's a little black box on teh firewall on the drivers side under the hood.

    All mine is held on with cable ties with no worries, get hose clamps though if you're worried.

  3. I would not loose any sleep . Garrett do two CHRA's very similar to the 2530 , one is from the GT28RS (better 60mm compressor) and one called the GTR upgrade CHRA . In fact garrett do a similar if not identical turbo to the 2530 for direct fitment to the RB26 .  

    The GTRS is only badge engineering on a 2871R (see ATP Turbo.com) both are streets ahead of the HKS GT2540 which was garbage anyway .  

    Any one with tap into HKS will find they had an exclusive tie with Garrett to produce certain combinations of compressor and turbines . This would have had a sunset clause and competition issues would have stuffed it for HKS . So you'll  find all these things being sold round the world by Garrett (who makes them anyway) for less than HKS thievery .

    Cheers  A .

    The whole Garrett / HKS connection has been done to death, there's a HUGE thread around here somewhere about it, and summation seems to be:

    Yes, HKS are Garrett items, but in unique combinations and specs you can't buy from Garret direct.

    If you want to discuss it further i suggest revive the aforementioned thread.

  4. Also the car had done 178K at the time of the engine's removal.

    That's what the speedo read, chances are that's the K's on the engine, it's had a 5spd conversion but the motor should have stayed the same.

    Just so you're aware, i have an offer on the exhaust manifold, but as mentioned anyone taking the the lot will get preference.

    Please don't take TOO long deciding and you're welcome to come look at it if you feel the need.

  5. 99% of the braces out there seem to be of the "hinged" type, a bar, pins at each end attached to plates screwed to the strut-tops.

    Then there's the one on Nigel's Supra (picture attached) which has solid welds to the strut-top plates.

    My thoughts would be the later offers a stiffer setup, as the hinged-type stop stuts moving apart = /, or together = / , but they wouldn't stop both moving the same direction = / / or . Whereas the solid-type would.

    Now can anyone tell me how much, if any, of deal is this?

    And why not throw the 3-anchor point type, 3rd one on the firewall, in to the mix too?

    And does anyone know of a supplier for the solid-type as i've yet to see one?

    Cheers.

  6. They can detect the camera van but only while it's taking a photo of someone. Not much good if you're the only one speeding.

    Edit: Raistlin, I'm sorry for the thread hijack by the way...

    Actually the Radar units use a CONSTANT WAVE, therefore they constantly emit detectable energy, the majority of it is concentrated in the main lobe which faces from the front of unit. Most are slant-radar and go ~20 degrees from parallel to the road.

    So you're most likely to detect them as you approach head-on, however, traffic radar is not mil-spec kit so they emit a fair amount of energy in to their side-lobes too, which makes them detectable from behind.

    Image of radar lobes here, not sure what it's from but you can get the idea, imagine the 0C point facing out from the front of the camera car angled in to the road.

    Laser, or LIDAR, which is the hand-helds the cops use is only on when they hold the trigger down. So you get far less warning when they target you. They typically have to hold it on you for 3 secs so if the laser warning goes off you've gotta hit the skids QUICK before they get a good reading.

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