Oosh
-
Posts
1,466 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by Oosh
-
-
Am about to sell off the exhaust manifold, so anyone after the "package", get in quick...
Just ripped this RB20DET out of the R32 i bought, the engine compression tested OK (~150 PSI all round) but, had what sounded like big-end noise from cylinder 1.
Now MINUS Exhaust Manifold (and two snapped studs) - Open to offers.
What you get:
Block, Head, Internals, Exhaust Manifold, Inlet Manifold, etc.
All bolted together in one piece.
What you DON'T get:
Exhaust Manifold.
Sump, Loom, ANY Sensors, ANY Pulleys, Water Pump, Coil-Packs, Spark plugs, Injectors, fuel rail...
If you're not sure if a bit is/isn't included please ask.
Located in PARKDALE. MELB PICKUP ONLY!
And NO you can't have pictures, there's nothing to see!
-
what kinda rear muffler you looking for ?
Something to go on the back of my R32, it needs to be 3" inlet, nothing too loud or massive a tip (i can do without the attention), straight thru, etc. etc.
-
waldo - did you paint the inside of the pipe as well ? I think I might try and paint the inside aswell.
I've seen several so-called heat-proof paints flake away quite easily too, and your cooler piping ends up full of slightly oil residue anyway, so i can only see it worthwhile painting the outside...
RowdyR32's old setup, before he put a RB26 in, looped in front of the radiator but that was the pipe feeding the intercooler NOT returning from it. Sure the intercooler has to sink a bit more heat but a 600x300x76 is pretty huge for a RB20, if you're not going too extreme, and the pipes just before the manifold barely got warm.
-
hey guys i got
2 tannabe turbo back zorst
3 rsr turbo backs
450-750 depending on what zorst
came off r33's coming from japan
1 rsr is mint and rest are pritty average or good some with dents on bottom of muffler
picks will be up asap
or call 0402670354 or 0422182825 to arange ......inspection in northen subs
cheers
If you're willing to seperate I'm just looking for a rear muffler, dents don't bother me but, pics would be appreciated.
Cheers.
-
Why not find a new muffler?
Adam
Because I'm a tight-arse, but if i can't find what i'm looking for 2nd hand then, i guess i'll loosen my sphincter
-
As an interim i put the spare muffler, which came with the car, on and the difference is amazing. But, with how small the tip is there's no question it's robbing power, it's kind of made me lean towards a better rear muffler first up.
So now to find a decent second hand muffler, off to the trading forums...
-
Just did the same, immediately better on idle, but the car wasn't 100% cold so the real test will be when i get home and start her up tonight!
Will keep you all posted... oh i apparently have newish Denso pump (haven't checked) so hopefully running it 100% wont kill it.
Seems MUCH better at startup now, but i think i'll give the coil-packs a clean too...
-
What's the exhaust setup, in case you DO decide to let it go, in particular the dump pipe...
Cheers.
-
:D
Well, I had to take my balls in my hands and do it myself. After I regained the strength in my arms I got to work.
Cut the black wire and earthed it out under one of the screws holding down the metal plate with the arrow on top.
Started car and idle was still a little up and down after I gassing car while it was in neutral.
Took it for a real thrashing on a private road, a REAL thrashing, then drove it around off boost for 10-15mins and came home.
Purrs like a kitten, idle steady. Now I'm going out to give the AAC valve a carby cleaner shower and wave goodbye to this embarrasing problem hopefully forever.!
Just did the same, immediately better on idle, but the car wasn't 100% cold so the real test will be when i get home and start her up tonight!
Will keep you all posted... oh i apparently have newish Denso pump (haven't checked) so hopefully running it 100% wont kill it.
-
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=56650
I THINK this answers your question...
-
Interested in front and back seats if it's the later model black interior (and all in good nick).
Ball park figure of what you'd take for them would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Edit: Also the driver's side electrics switch array (window/mirror/lock switches) provided none of them are "sticky".
Edit 2: Don't need teh switches, A. I have a sedan, B. I think i fixed mine last night...
-
-
I have the full article too, and the claimed results do seem a little fanciful, but it certainly was interesting. And please, i don't need to be told "don't believe everything you read", i brought this up for discussion for much that reason.
Also Gav, your post makes a lot of sense, comparing surface area of the manifol to that of an intercooler (which induces more turbulance too), i can't see these things having 1% of the effectiveness of a good cooler.
-
...3" pipe is overkill on a two litre road motor particularly with that std turbo . 2.5" would have been fine with a reasonably std engine .
Look that might be teh case, but the car came with 3" system, so i'll stick with it.
Hmm so we have a couple of schools of thought:
1. Use a high-quality rear muffler...
2. Replace resonator with a centre muffler...
Note to whoever was talking about gas following least resitance, while that may be the case, sound propogation is a different beast. They ARE linked, but note same, also gas doesn't all shoot thru the centre it will some will make it thru the perferations and it to the surrounding cavity.
Maybe i'll try number 2 first, then try a better rear muffler...
-
Was trolling around Autospeed, came across this, http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0401, and was wondering:
a. Are these are available for RB engines?
b. If so, has anyone used one?
c. If not, would people be interested in them?
Plus any general comment/opinions on the idea.
P.S. You don't need the full article to get the gist.
-
Okay, just got a R32 GTST-type M 4-door, loving it to bits, sounds great when you put the hammer down but...
...on longer drives the exhaust drone drives me nuts!
The engine/turbo are stock (for the moment), the exhaust system is:
stock dump -> 3" front pipe -> 3" CAT -> smallish resonator -> 5" cannon (3" inlet with 4" tip)
I definately want something quieter, however in the medium-term i'll be going a 2530 turbo upgrade, so i'm willing to sacrifice some flow but not too much.
I'm basically after some advice on good resonators, should i replace the small one or just add another one, i believe there is room?
Also what about other mufflers, cannons' are a little showy (read "cop-bait") for me, i like twin outlets for some reason...
I'm looking to get away with less $500 all up, so please don't suggest anything Titanium, big-name-brand, etc.
Cheers!
-
r u guys seriously paying this much money for a lip?! farkkkk just get one made up in fibreglass... or perhaps 3 for the price
Fibreglass is significantly heavier and less durable than the plastic genuine items.
-
I sent you a PM some time back but got no response, if the R32 manuals cover the GTR I'll take a copy, so PM the acct details if that's the case.
Thanks
Since the R32 GTR was sold in Australia, albeit in very limited numbers, there is already an English workshop manual for them.
My guess is Nissan Australia WOULD have problems with someone reproducing and distributing/selling that particular one, however, it IS out there in PDF if you know where to look.
Edit: Spelling.
-
Yeah we got impatient, and cut it with the die-grinder, sqeezed it with vice grips and levered it out with a screwdriver. Left a bit of a mark around the hole, but nothing major, cleaned it up ok.
Popped the new bearing in, and the engine in too, got the car started. Would have finished the job but it got too late, will sort out the exhaust, and rest of plumbing/electrics tonight.
-
By far the easiest way is to get your hands on a tube of dry lube and then find a bolt that JUST fits inside the spigot bearing. The bolt shouldn't bind on the spigot bearing at all, just needs to be the biggest one that fits without rubbing on the bearing.
Fill the spigot bearing with the dry lube, then put the bolt inside the spigot bearing and give it a few taps with the hammer.
The dry lube will force the bearing out from behind it as you tap the bolt in.
Works a treat and is soooooo much easier than any other way I've tried.
J
Good one, well definately give it a red-hot go, cheers!
-
Hey people,
Basically I'm swapping a stuffed RB20DET out for a good one, the replacement engine is from an automatic, so as many of you'll know (and Rowdy and I were reminded yesterday) the spigot bearing is different to a 5spd.
My question is, does anyone else have experience with removing these little suckers?
The car had a manual conversion previously, and we can see on the old engine where the auto bearing has been ground and squeezed out, we can resort to this but if there's a better way... Rowdy doesn't think any of the pullers from his work are up to the task either.
Ideas/Suggestions appreciated.
Cheers.
-
Sounds good, make sure you get a nice big SAU pimp in there somehow!i got an email back from poppy stating:Poppy Orphanides
Sent : Tuesday, 9 November 2004 2:10:47 PM
To : [email protected]
Subject : re: cars in the new series of Pizza
Hi,
Nice car it would be great for the show! Generally you would drive the
car and most of the time it is parked somewhere, but I would let you
know in advance what the particular scene entails. In the meantime,
please forward me some details so I can add you to our car list and let you know what date we are recording.
Well gd luck wit MR G... let us know if they call you up..but arent the fat pizza series over???
I thought so too but this was a recent ad on Autospeed, so something must be going on, wether new eps every see the light of day is another matter entirely.
-
too right Horus
Ooch.. what drugs are you on? anybody can go to overclockers and go read those for themselves.. They work, but I'd hardly say they are the bastian of internet trading rules. I reckon the auction process on their with "Instant" and "Reserve" is a bit stupid to be honest.
Some are worth taking onboard though.
Actually, as i mentioned earlier, they can't because you need to be a member for 90 days before you're allowed in to the trading forums.
-
Some general advice for online trading.
Precautions to take when buying/selling.Please note: Neither OCAU nor its owners or administrators play any role in any sales. The following list of precautions are not guidelines, merely a list of things you may, or may not want to do.
1. Contact the buyer (or seller) via PM, and ask for their Full name, current address and email, current home phone number, and current mobile telephone number. Ring both, and double check that person exists at both numbers. Cross check the addresses in the white pages and (if possible) match the home phone numbers. Check that the email works. If they are a business, get their ABN and Fax no. too. In a worse case scenario, this info is essential. If the person sounds young, maybe even a parents work no., mobile no., or consent.
If the number is private, it won't be in the white pages. Its up to you then to trust them on their own accord. It's also worth checking if a mobile phone number is pre-paid or on a plan. Pre-paids are usually not liable to give valid details when signing up, people on plans do.
2. Ask the buyer/seller if they've traded with anyone else before, and get in contact with them to see what they thought of the trader.
3. If you are the buyer, get the users bank details - Account Name, BSB Number and Account number. If possible, ask for the branch name. It is possible to get the Branch name and location out of the BSB - ring any bank and ask. Cross check this with the address. It IS possible they have made an account in another state, then moved, but again, thats up to you to base on trust. Ring the bank and check the account is valid. Keep all receipt numbers of sent money. Then rectify that money was sent, by asking the seller for the transaction number.
If you are the seller, do not send anything out until the money is in your account and cleared. As simple as it sounds, I've noticed a lot of people have sent goods and not waited for money to clear. Do not send if postage costs are missing, the amount is incorrect or only partially sent. If you need the extra precaution as a seller, ask for their bank details too. Its extra collateral if the case comes down to a scam - the feds or local police will be able to get a lot of information out of a valid bank account. Check with the bank to see if its valid. Gather receipt numbers of sent monies.
If you are really paranoid - Escrow is another choice. Basically, it involves a trusted third party company, which inserts a middle man into the transaction. You send the money and the goods to the escrow, and the escrow sends the money and goods to the appropriate people. If you take this option it might be a fair idea to split the costs between both parties.
4. If you are selling, pack the goods properly. Nothing is worse then recieving a $400 OEM Geforce in a tiny little plastic bag. Measure the boxes/goods, then get the postage costs. Add on a few bucks, and get some decent bubble wrap and box. Use registered post, since they chuck on insurance for free, keep all reciept no.s and post. If they ask for express post, clarify with them. If they ask for a courier, ask specifically which company. If they offer a tracing service, use it. Basically, make sure you have some sort of insurance or genuine way to back up the delivery. Because if it fails, its your arse. Take responsibility for damaged goods.
If you are buying, make sure you choose a decent type of delivery method to avoid trouble. Avoid normal post at all costs. There is no guarantee you will recieve it, no insurance and up to a weeks wait. Express post is a bit better - its guaranteed next day, they have a small type of tracking system (good luck though), and its only a few dollars more. Registered Post is easily the best service from Auspost - They have up to $100 free insurance (more if you pay a little bit), proper tracking system, and it really doesn't cost that much.
Couriers are different matters. Both can cost quite a hefty fee, depending on how big the goods are and where they are going. Companies like Australia Post, FedEx, Mayne Logistics all offer pickup and deliver to the door services. If your goods MUST arrive at a certain time, date, hour - couriers are the best way to go, if you are willing to pay.
5. If there are any problems - consult the buyer directly FIRST. Ring them up, send an email, send them a PM. Don't fight about it in the public forums, it brings other people into it and makes it a huge scene. If you have taken all the precautions noted by now, the person would either be a REALLY fantastic scammer, or simply just made a mistake. Rectify everything carefully, and dont hestitate to call the police if weeks pass and you hear nothing. You do not have to sit by and be ripped off.
A few useful thing to remember when concidering purchasing an item:
If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
Faulty Coils? Misfire At High Rpm? Read This.
in General Maintenance
Posted
oops wrong window...
post deleted