benl1981

What do you think this will do to the value of second hand GTRs?

Hi, not sure how many R35 owners on here I have an '08 with mid pipe upgrade only and I’m considering considering either: 1. Cobb off the shelf tune with TCM tune also (probably stage 1) 2. Custom ecutek tune and not sure whether to get TCM tune only The tuning and cobb resellers I speak to are divided on the TCM tune, some say it will shorten the life of the transmission and another said it is actually good for the transmission as with the TCM tune it doesn't drop to 6th and shift through the gears so much. Anyone with real world experience? The Cobb stage 1 tune doesn't seem that much of an improvement (custom tunes seem to pick up a lot more?). It also seems the stage 2 cobb picks up a lot more lower end power/torque (<4500rpm). I don't want to do injectors or intake so stage 2 is probably not an option. I want to get the most from this, but still maintaining good reliability (especially the gearbox), and just wondering if the cobb or custom is the way to go. thanks

Hi just wanted to check a part number. looking at a timing belt for 2 cars - both rb25 R33GTST and R34GTT Are the belts the same and water pump? there’s 2 part numbers for the belt. Anyone know the difference? On ebay you seem to be able to get a genuine for about $65 but it says it’s made in Thailand? 13028-20P25 13028-20PXE

I’ve just checked and it has the stock rear anti roll bar! Maybe I should just put on the stock front bar for now. Has anyone ever run just the white line front bar to any advantage?

Are you saying it will oversteer too much ?

Thanks, I’ve got the GKtech. I’d like less understeer so maybe I should fit the stock sway bar and leave the white line in the rear? anyone had luck with that?

These bits, maybe the r32 is different

I had a look at a tutorial on the HEL and it doesn’t seem to have those mounting A blocks, which keep the hoses from flapping around. Seems like the gK tech have some benefits..as they are more of a direct fit?

Good idea. I’ll try that

Thread Revival! I’ve got an R33GTST that has the whiteline sway bar. I think it was on the hard setting and snapped one of the sway bar link brackets and I think on the other side the bar has been rubbing on the rubber brake line and worn it a way a little. I’ve almost fixed it all up and was considering putting the stock anti roll bar on to limit load on the bracket and avoid rubbing. Has anyone else had any issue. Alternatively I may just run the whiteline on the soft setting. Does the bar slide a bit left to right? Is there a way to avoid it? Thanks

Thanks for all the tips! anyway to tell re. The crimp as I’m now considering the HEL?

Oh right. I had a look at those but they didn’t seem to have the same blocks for mounting as the oem and the Gktech. To be adr approved don’t they need to have a plastic cover over the braiding?

Thanks all are Gktech the best for the price or other options? Is the pedal feel worth the $200ish for the braided lines? managed to weld it up, not the prettiest welds but hopefully should hold. I welded both sides.

Thanks for all that. Sounds sensible. I might swap back to the stock sway bar for now. Just had a brake problem, has anyone replaced this bit of hard line. Do I just take it off and get someone to pipe bend up something similar? I think the stray sway bar link may have contacted the brake line while it’s been disconnected ..

I.e it looks like that bolt is just making sure the brake line/block is secured/located rather than anything else?

Quick one, I’m going to take the bracket off to weld, do you guys know if the brake line can just be unbolted and everything else so the part can be removed for welding? thanks

May be ok? Checked the movement, what do you think? IMG_1275.MOV

Thanks Plynx, still no sign of overheating so I’ve left it without that fan

Hmm, interesting, might be cheap insurance to fit a bell mouth prior to the dyno tune. I can’t find an off the shelf bellmouth to front pipe (short section), maybe I’ll just get the $170 JJR complete front/dump

Hi all, Ive got a 2860r/rs small Garrett turbo on my rb25 it’s really responsive and have the z32, 550s and Powerfc to add on and turn. Hopefully to around 230rwkw Im looking for a responsive package, it has a split dump, does this look too restrictive to you? I think I have another dump somewhere, not sure if it will fit but it looked less restrictive to this. The car makes around 7psi by 3k rpm in 2nd gear and current runs-around 12.5 psi max boost. looking to run around 18psi boost, do you think this dump is ok? thanks ben

Thanks all, will stick with the gforce 2 then. Strange though, if I bring it on boost from say 2000 rpm in 4th I’ll get about 6psi from about 2000rpm, but it will stay there and slowly increase to about 8 or 9psi around 5000rpm. Alternatively if I go full throttle in 1st gear I’ll get around 12.5psi around 5000rpm. Its just strange that the boost isn’t that consistent? I would have thought with this small turbo, it should have been closer to the 12 psi mark from about 3k easy. I’m thinking of trying out my old turbotech to see if that’s better?

Thanks Tao, So a g3 high flow should get about 260rwkw on an r33 p98, as opposed to a 2860 around 220-230 do you think? How much difference in boost response? I’m getting about 9psi by about 2300rpm in 4th I think..

Anyone - hope it’s not too contentious

The tuner I spoke to seems to think the eboost2 is better since you can set boost by rpm, so if you have a small turbo that’s dropping boost higher in the rev range you can set the boost higher as the revs climb. He seems to the the GFB controller doesn’t have this function. I see it it does have sensitivity, but apparently it’s not the same. Is that true and the eboost2 is better? I do find with my Gforce it will peak at about 9 or 10psi then drop back to 7psi even though the target is 9psi but I think the turbo will run up to about 18psi

Tao, the new 21u basic high flow that made 342rwkw with the free flowing turbine wheel, is that as responsive as the earlier version? How does boost response compare to the stock turbo? Yours isn’t ball bearing so is it slightly laggier? I have a 2860 (similar to hks2530) on the rb25 and don’t want to lose that response.. thanks