benl1981

Old thread revival but.. Satanic - do you have the instructions still from Tomei showing this mod. I have done it and the car feels a lot more responsive. However It doesn't seem the BOV is functioning as it's intended after this mod according to what Ive read

hmm So by blocking that hole I have probably hindered the valve opening fully. I'm sure the boost is building faster with it blocked and part throttle is so much more effortless. So that hole must have actually leak it back into the inlet? I guess I'm not using it the way it's designed to be. It mustn't be too bad if Tomei put it on their instructions for installation of Poncams?

It's only a small amount of air, however it would lean out the air flow slightly since you are no longer leaking that small amount back into the turbo inlet I.e if your car was tuned with the bleed hole open then you block it after the tune. I guess it would only be a very small amount. However, the air is coming back in after the AFM though...?? Makes a more agressive sound with it blocked. It's wierd how Tomei tell you to do this when you intall new camshafts. They probably want you to think wow the cams made a huge difference when in fact it's probably the blocking off this hole in the BOV that improves the response the most. has there been any negative side effects with this mod?

GCG do this as an option i.e machine out wastegate and add bigger flap. Should probably be done as standard issue..

Just did this. Blocked up the small hole with some gasket maker (built it up slightly so when you tighten the 2 bolts is squashes in and is secure). It seems to be a lot more responsive. Suprised a few post back somebody that pulled a BOV appart believed that small hole doesn't plumb back and isn't effectively a "leak". I'm sure it's boosting quicker and part throttle in 4th or 3rd comes onto boost quicker and feels less flat.

Having an issue with mine also. Problem somwhat better after placing some silicon on coils. Still have 1 left to insert with the coating. Sometime the car will revout without misfiring (running about 18psi boost- probelm if you run any more than about 11 or 12 psi). Is the any way to check the ignitor module or coil harness. I guess the coil harness I could check the continuity along each of the sections and the ignitor module from the specs in the manual. I just don't know if the silicon trick is working. I have the red gasket maker that i've coated them with and it seems to hold well. Annoying problem. I have 10- coil packs so I've been swapping them out - coating them putting them back in. Don't want to spend $500+ on splitefires, only to find out it's the module or the harness!

Is Silicone or araldite better for this application? Lithium, could you see any crack or tell tale signs of arcing. Mine look ok...

Hey Bubba, Could you clearly see the plugs deteriorating inside? I have a misfire when hot. Trying to sort out whether its coils, harness or ignitor module (series 1 R33) Thanks

Ok. r33 series 1 with high flow running 18psi. Ive had misfire before and after replacing plugs 6 months ago and it completely fixed it. I've replaced them again with BKR6E (same type - 0.8 gap) after having misfiring again. Same problem. So I swapped 4 of the 6 coil packs with other ones I had lying around. Drove the car around and it was perfect. Left those coil packs in and been driving around again. After a 30minute drive it's misfiring again. Now: Could still be coil packs Ignitor module Coil pack leads. I'm thinking because it doesn't really happen when its cold its probably not the leads. I will check the resistance on the coil packs. What about the ignitor module. Does that often play up? ANd if so are the 2nd hand ones likely to have issues also. I know people araldite up the coil packs, is there anything you can do to the ignitor module like that. Thanks guys - I know the misfiring is a bit old by now. Its mainly up over about 4000rpm when boost is hitting around 15-18psi..

stick with your r33 cover. You have better boost response because of it. R34 will be laggier. I had an R34 cover and swapped it to an R33 on the BB highfow as I wanted better response

Kumho KU31 SPT are really good and cheap! Had them on for about a month now.. Hold almost 250rwkw without spinning in a straight line. 225/50 16s http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ku...Go-t227406.html

Rekin, Wierd you should post this. I have an R33 and just taken my superpro front camber bushes out due to squeeking (today). Put the stock ones back in. Ride is smoother and no squeek or other suspension noises. I am going to write to superpro also. I had the bushes installed in the control arms by Wholesale Suspension so they were done correctly. Also one of the bolts on the side that wasn't squeeking was missing (I always torque things up heaps), so I was lucky that I checked/changed that side also. They were $150 but have cost me a lot more than that in stuffing around. I've had them for about a year but they have been squeeking for about 6 months on and off. There was plenty of grease on the crush tube still.. Cheers

anyone

anyone got one for 30

Where are you strech? I can go up to $30.

Thanks guys. Yeah I have hand controller only. Wonder how much power I've lost by knocking out ~4 deg timing. Still feels really quick. I do know that if you dont get a good start - just let out clutch and floor it, until you hit a good amount of boost at about 4000rpm in 1st its no quicker than a v6 commo to about 40km/h. You really need to rev it a little off the mark to get a decent start. Stock turbo might have been slightly better for this

Well if I knock out another 2 deg of timing I can keep knock below 50, but that means that around 4000rpm-6000rpm I am only runnning 12-13 deg of timing (in the load point 16 and 17 cells)..seems very low? Wish theyd start running ethanol in the 98 octane (like the boost98), then it probably wouldnt be an issue.. Might try another batch of petrol and new fuel filter..

I find it takes more time to work around things than take them off in most cases. I forgot I had to look for missing tools so maybe closer to 40mins but I have a look down each spark plug hole with torch and guess took my time a bit. You guys must be pros :0

I guess i've never noticed - running only 10psi before I think I got about 20k between changes, without even getting a miss. Probably about 1-1.25h is realistic . But I doubt you'd get much quicker than that when you have to take off strut brace, intake pipe etc and then reinstall. I reckon a workshop would get you for a good 1.5-2 hours.. PS. BKR6E come gapped to 0.8mm. I checked them last time and all good. This time I didn't bother.

My r33gtst is running 18psi and 247rwkw. I have been using BKR6E plugs and just started getting misfire above 4000rpm. The plugs have only been in about 12,000km. However, I have had a dyno tune and 1/2 a track day on those plugs. The plugs still looked ok. The misfire is now completely gone and the response is back in my car. Heaps more power. Replaced with the same NGK BKR6E. I suggest changing every 5-7,000km. Anybody know how long the iridiums last before a loss in power? It's not the most fun job changing them but only takes me about 1-1.5 hours now.. If running less than 14psi you probably wouldn't get the misfire as quick but you are probably losing power by not chaning your plugs.

Anyone got one? Wanting to throw out? Will pay up to $20 for one in good condition. Thanks

Yeah thanks - I've used the map trace and I understand that all engines are different, but I just wanted to see someone that had a similar turbo what sort of timing they're running, more for curiosity's sake. Paul - I like your idea re. the 100 octane shell on track day. I have done that before and it seems to keep knock levels at bay.. Thanks Anyone with any maps or comments re. 4000rpm load point 16 ignition timing levels?

Thanks guys. It has been to a good tuner (Well I think he is). Maybe the cooler weather is playing a factor and what SK is saying about the loading type. Does anyone with similar mods know what kind of timing they are running around that load point (16). Around 4000rpm are you only feeding in about 14 deg also? Seems a bit on the low side. I've taken up to 3-4 deg out at some points. I saw an 85 today. Even when it's hit 100 I can't hear anything.. I have taken the air snorkel off - wonder if sucking hot air from the engine bay is doing anything (though the modified snorkel is restrivtive after 5500rpm). Cheers

R33 Rb25 running GCG turbo. Been getting some knock - though not very consistent. 18psi (tailing to 16psi). Made 247rwkw. Was getting readings of 90-100 knock around 5000rpm - 6000rpm under full throttle. Pulled 2 degrees out of most of those cells. These were load point 16 (using z32 afm). Most of those around around 15 deg advance now. Just lately noticed some knock around 4000rpm in 3rd and sometimes 2nd. I've pulled out about 3 deg around that zone. When it's at 3500-3700prm it's at load point 16 so I've only altered load point 15 and 16 around that zone. I've also pulled 1 deg out of a few cells close by in case it's passing through there. Thing was it wasn't pinging on the dyno. Don't know if it's just mechanical noise or what. Thought it might be a bad batch of petrol but it's been on 2 tanks now, and it has always had the tendancy to flash the check engine light (knock oer 60) every now and then (not consistently). Can somebody post their ign map with similar mods - would like to see if mine was a bit agressive. Around 5000rpm it had about 16 deg previously going up to 20 deg at 6800rpm. Dyno was done in summer about 27 deg, would think now being cooler would not be an issue at all.. All ignition no.'s in the attached are before touching the tune myself, the negatives are the corrections I have made (I have made more since), to bring a lot of load point 16 no's back to ignition advance values of 14 or 15.. Ignition_map.pdf

Old thread - but on the same sort of trend. Rb25 running GCG turbo. Been getting some knock - though not very consistent. 18psi (tailing to 16psi). Made 247rwkw. Was getting readings of 90-100 knock around 5000rpm - 6000rpm under full throttle. Pulled 2 degrees out of most of those cells. These were load point 16 (using z32 afm). Most of those around around 15 deg advance now. Just lately noticed some knock around 4000rpm in 3rd and sometimes 2nd. I've pulled out about 3 deg around that zone. When it's at 3500-3700prm it's at load point 16 so I've only altered load point 15 and 16 around that zone. I've also pulled 1 deg out of a few cells close by in case it's passing through there. Thing was it wasn't pinging on the dyno. Don't know if it's just mechanical noise or what. Thought it might be a bad batch of petrol but it's been on 2 tanks now, and it has always had the tendancy to flash the check engine light (knock oer 60) every now and then (not consistently). Can somebody post their ign map with similar mods - would like to see if mine was a bit agressive. Around 5000rpm it had about 16 deg previously going up to 20 deg at 6800rpm. Dyno was done in summer about 27 deg, would think now being cooler would not be an issue at all.. All ignition no.'s in the attached are before touching the tune myself, the negatives are the corrections I have made (I have made more since), to bring a lot of load point 16 no's back to ignition advance values of 14 or 15.. Ignition_map.pdf