benl1981

Nice thread. My kakimoto was ok (3.5" cat back) but I have now added a highflow and is just that bit worse. Slight drone at 2000-2500rpm if loading it up a bit. Looking to quieten her down. It already has a centre and rear muffler. Courier - Are you saying you have 3 mufflers on yours now? Im thinking the SS is slightly louder than MSteel also..

Is 3" cat back big enough for 240-250rwkw? I hae a 3.5" SS Kakimoto catback but now with the highflow a little noisier and around 2-2500rpm if loaded a little up a hill it gets a little droney. Was thinking 3" mild steel might be quieter. It has 2 mufflers on it.

I've decided I'm going to sell it. Let me know in the next couple of hours otherwise I'm putting it on ebay. I'll take $200 for it now. Great as a replacement for a tired old pump in a GTR or for upgrade in GTST Cheers

Wont need flanges. Just chop and weld.

Don't risk your motor paying $100 for a 2nd hand 10+ year old pump. Brand new for $220.

Main Differences: R33 Series 1 Turbo: The Baseline (Metal comp wheel) R33 Series 2 Turbo: Plastic compressor wheel - quicker spool slightly R34 Turbo: Most have the bigger exhaust housing so will be a little laggier. Rumours that some have the smaller housing. Not sure on comp wheel. 10kw more than R33 turbos if you get the "OP6" housing. VG30 turbo: Same exhaust housing as R34 (If you get the "OP6"). Compressor wheel is smaller. Exhaust wheel possibly the same as R33/R34. Apparently not as good as an R33 turbo because they are laggy (due to the R34/VG30 housing) and don't make that much power (due to the small comp wheel size - more like R32 turbo size).

They can all hold about the same boost. Maybe the R34 series 2 has the Op6 exhaust housing (larger) so will make about 10kw more as stated. They all spool quick. R33 one with the plastic compressor wheel will be the earliest spooler but all these stock ones are very reponsive. The larger exhaust housing will delay you hitting full boost by about 300rpm.

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That's what he's saying - he expected it to be running richer than that. Mine was in the 9-10s when I upped the boost which is usually how they go. O2 sensor is what sets the AFRs at light load and idle. In fact I can drive around town in closed loop most of the time if I baby it round. The tune has to be close to the mark first but then the 02 sensor will bring it back to 14.7 AFR by playing with the injector duty cycle. Take it to a dyno and pay $50 to get it checked there both on idle and full throttle, then if its the measurement device you havent wasted your time trying to fix a problem that isnt there.

I think a few people have missed the point. The 02 sensor should be keeping the AFR at ~14.7 in closed loop as Fat is saying. Usually it would be a bit richer at full throttle also. Most likely either: 1. Stuffed measurement device (AFRs its reading are wrong) 2. Stuffed fuel pump 3. Stuffed Fuel pressure regulator (check fuel pressure at rail at idle) 4. Stuffed O2 sensor (Doesn't explain only 11:1 AFR at full throttle - usually would be richer) 4. Stuffed AFM (less likely)

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Mate you might be stressing about nothing. Most cars if you rev them and have the radiator cap open will give out heaps of bubbles. The water pump is churning up the water/coolant and causing some extra water to come up through the radiator cap opening. Are you sure that as you are doing this water isn't spitting onto the belts and causing the noise? Or that your belts are tensioned correctly? Might want to try this: 1. Grab some silicon spray and spray around the belts and pully wheels 2. Just let the car idle with radiator cap open - allow to get up to operating temp, keep topping up 3. Put radiator cap on, take for about a 5-10 min soft drive, keep an eye on engine temp 4. Allow engine to cool >1hr..Top up before your next drive.

Anyone? Let me know by the end of the week otherwise I'll end up using it. Cheers

Flows more than most of the Walbros, not sure about 040. Plus it is more reliable. People on here put in 15 year old GTR pumps into GTSTs as upgardes with no problems. This one is BRAND NEW. Just have to hose clamp to the bracket. Wiring etc all the same. Check out this: http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm#j4

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these turbos are great torun up to about 18psi. AK - at 10psi stay with the stock turbo. You will have more lag for no benefit with the high flow.

Complete with fitting kit. Pics Added

Im in Sydney - PMd you.

SOLD

I only used about 10cm to make it a bit easier to fit. Better going shorter than longer...for ease of fitment

Will I dont think its moving but it does get a little louder when the car is warmed up and in traffic. Anyone know if they bend the bracket to the right? Also, how loud is yours? Mine is like a buzzing - it doesnt get noisier when I rev it though (compared to idle). Maybe I'm being fussy though. Should it be almost silent?

Anyone? I think under braking reasonably hard the pump is hitting the tank - I can hear a thud. I'll have to check it isnt the amp moving around. I have bent the bracket a bit so when viewed from the top it is right of where it was before.

I see somebody mentioned they bent the cradle to the right to allow it to clear - was that when looking from above? I did this and added a bit of rubber to test. It is a lot quieter but every now and then it makes some wierd noises. Maybe it doesn't touch all the time but every now and then part of the pump rests on the tank.

Can't say I've used them so maybe it is better to stick to Genuine for such a time consuming task in case something goes wrong.

You should be able to get the valve stem seals from ACL for about $40. Some people have had luck changing these with the head on. Search around you'll see a thread.