benl1981

Seems to be large variation in grades and price. On ebay they are selling CODAN EFI hose that only meets SAE 30R7 for EFI. http://www.oztion.com.au/vshops/item.aspx?...amp;shopid=2884 I was under the impresison SAE30R9 should be used with EFI. The local parts stores sell one by "exe hose" It has printed on it "EFI hose" but nothing about the SAE standards it passes. Exehose is about $10/m - another place wanted $27/m for the stuff that is SAE30R9. Anyone know places that sell the SAE 30R9 fuel hose cheap? In sydney thanks thanks

The Fuel pump hose that is submersed in fuel the whole time should have a special rating. Gates sell a SAE 30R10 that is suitable but only comes in 30cm length. for $35. This is not quite long enough since on the R33gtst it has a long piece. The stock nissan hose has 3921 written on and seems to have lasted ok. What have most people done. I have heard of other standard hose deteriorating in the fuel Cheers

I have an early R33 and been doing a few mods. I did the fuel pump about 3 months ago and recently have noticed a bit of a fuel smell (not so major). Jacked up the car and there was signs of fluid around the back, strong smell near wheel arch. The hose connecting to the top of the pump was bulging and leaking petrol. It was fine at the time of doing the pump. I am going to start replacing as many fuel hoses as possible..especially in the engine bay. Remember to use the injection hose SAE 30R9 NOT 30R7 While I had the turbo off I replaced all the leaky power steer hose (gone hard over time) and also did the radiator hoses. This can be done relatively cheaply but the fuel hose is most important to get right. Fuel Hose - Go to reputable place probably less than $10/m Power Steer Hose - Went to Enzed and got some straight hose for all the return hoses and hose to pump. Radiator Hoses - Got the 2 from www.gimmecarparts.com.au for about $60-$70 Unfortunately R32s and R33 are getting pretty old. While they are tough cars and reliable a hoses is a hose Posted in the forced induction area since people doing mods should first do the basic maintanence.

Mine stinks of fuel if you put your head in the wheel arch. The filler neck seems in tact. Got to get to the bottom of this.

If at stock boost you will not gain top end with a FMIC over a R34 SMIC. Maybe over a R33 cooler you may gain like 5rwkw. You probably notice it more because there is a slight delay in the throttle response then you feel the power. Such a waste going FMIC if on the stock turbo..plus you usually have to hack into your car a bit.

Does it have GCG on it?

Finny a High-flow bolts up like stock. The exhaust Wheel is DEFINALTEY bigger than stock (vg30 has same size as Rb25 anyway) and Ithink the compressor cover may have been bored out (from the inside)

If sticking with stock turbo dont do a FMIC. You wil get less response and stuff all gain up high.

Looks like your old turbo was a highflow anyway. Your old turbo was off a very early VG30 or something and had a bigger exh wheel. Definately NOT standard - maybe not ball bearing either.

94db is still pretty loud - looks like a tidy setup though and doesnt hang too low. Mine is fairly quiet but after the turbo upgrade it is a bit boomier (dronier) at lower rpm (below 3000rpm)

Im looking for a really quiet exhaust - I think mine is noisier since the highflow. Definately around 2000-2500rpm it is noisier. I have a 3" bellmouth - Catco Cat - 3.5" Kakimoto catback with 2 mufflers (SSteel). I think maybe mild steel is less drony.

Yeah I think it was Colin. Good bloke. Roves around a fair bit. Very reasonable. I had a seized turbo to manifold stud. Couldnt get it even when welding a nut on the end..He drilled it out for me. There was still some thread left but he decided to put a helicoil in to make it more substantial. Threadman Phone: 0414 237 354 Address: Mona Vale NSW 2103 P.s. The exhaust gasket is around $100. Turbo to exh gasket $33 (If you get trade). Colin will have the studsfor the exh manifold. The turbo to manifold studs are 1.5 pitch oneside and 1.25 the other. You can use the standard 1.5 to 1.5 ones if you use different nuts. Otherwise get those 4 studs from nissan

Whereabouts are you - Ive got a guy that travels around (based nthn beaches) - that is really good and cheapish

What the wall thickness of the stock pipes? I dont think the JJ kits Aluminium piping is very thick. It would be nice to have about 2mm of wall thickness to tap into. You can do the pipe just coming out of the turbo (stock pipe) or the one oafter the intercooler. If you have a pressure drop across your cooler you may get different boost levels depending where you position it.

Thanks Beerbaron - sounds like its not a good idea then. Daniel - Yeah I have the Jasma one. It is pretty good but around 2000rpm cruising it is a little dronny..not much though. Its actually quieter at 4000rpm.

Will I was just going to replace from catback - leave the big dump and high flow cat. Is a GTR cat back 2.75"?

Yeah but still - you guys are mad

Hi there, I have heard people making high awkw on the GTRs with stock exhausts. I'm aiming for 240rwkw with my rb25 - currently 3" turbo to cat --> 3" catco cat -->3.5" catback (kakimoto) Its not real loud but would like to quieten it further. Would a GTR catback fit? How much power would this rob? The kakimoto already has 2 mufflers. Anyone have first hand experience? thanks

Forget about the lag - It's not really an issue - I think Im running about 13-14psi. I can't believe the hit it gets Be careful if there is any wetness on the road. These cars are monsters. 3rd gear.. 3000rpm boost building. about 3800rpm steps sideways as it hits builds to 14psi!! Not going to push it anymore till injectors then tune. Seriously though anymore than 240rwkw for the road is just plain silly !! Whatever its making now running as rich as buggery is plenty Well I guess the 170rwkw it was making before at 10psi on stock turbo was plenty also hahaha

If Radiator I got my 2 radiator hoses for about $60-$70. The good think is they are just black and not those crappy blue and red that stand out. I think one was $20 the other about $45. You can call them and speak to James. Tell him Ben referred you http://www.gimmecarparts.com.au/

Cranked boost up to about 13 or 14psi. Can get that boost by about 3800rpm in 3rd. 2nd is about 4100rpm. Not reving it past about 5000rpm but boy does it feel like a shove back in your seat as it comes onto the higher boost. Cant imagine what 18psi +tune will be like. Currently running very rich. You do have to get into the accelerator a bit more though with this turbo to make things happen

I found a vacuum leak (one of the vacuum lines I left disconnected) and Ive just put the turbotech boost controller on. Will test tomorrow and see if boost comes on a bit sooner..

Thanks Bass - I was going to elongate the mounting holes so that I have some adjustment. Will take on board what you are saying.

Isn't drilling out the holes pretty much the same deal? You are effectively shortening the rod and increasing the preload on the spring. Other turbos have an adjustable length rod to vary the boost.

Well Ill try the ghetto boost mod to ensure the wastegate isnt creeping open (drill out the holes slightly). 3000rpm is pretty damn good to have full boost!!! It looks like Im getting about 9psi by 3800rpm in 2nd. Running a bit rich and probably not optimum ignition timing so maybe I could get thatdown to 3500rpm..