benl1981

$100 - want it gone

changed your sparkies lately. Disconnect the 02 sensor plug and see if it still happens. Could also be a sticking Auxillary air valve.

thats a bitch mate. The thing is how do you prove it's not up to scratch? Exedy could just say that it was abused etc. Thats the problem with high performance cars and clutches. They might replace it but you dont know till it comes out etc. I guess they will check the claming force etc. Either way you're looking at the labour. I think when I get my clutch done I might end up buying the clutch from the person installing it - then atleast there is some chance of recouping labour cost if clutch is not up to spec. Sorry to hear your dramas. Just be careful if you do it at home..it looks like a heavy gearbox and not much clearance under the car. A few people on the forums would have done a clutch change at home - maybe it isnt that bad. Ive done a FWD one before that wasnt too bad. I think though for $350 to $400 I might just pay someone to do it if clutch needs replacing.

Hey Birnie. Sounds crap about the clutch. You can adjust them down on the clutch pedal. There is a clevis there where it attaches to the pedal (from master cylinder). You can undo the nut and thread the rod in or out. This is more for pedal position though. I only think this would make a difference if your clutch engages very high up the pedal.

Birnie - been interested in how yours is going with the new clutch. So its all you'd want - thats what Im hoping for. Im using a GCG with VG30 rear housing so hoping for similar result. The lag isnt too bad? Does it spin all the way through 2nd? I might have to get bigger tyres than 205s hahaha

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Ive had my car up on stands for about 1-2 months. I took the turbo off so I have had the oil and coolant out for that time. Whats the best thing to do? On startup should I just disconnect CAS and crank a few times before fully starting the car.. I will do this anyway since I will check oil is coming out the drain off the turbo. I guess I could squirt a drop of oil down the cylinders but would rather not. Anyone else got comments? Thanks

Pics. Can do $110 plus delivery

Hi there. I have a VG30 turbo - including actuator. I have used the housing so it doesn't have an exhaust housing. No shaft play so probably good if you have done this mod and blown the turbo. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3257097 $120 NOW $100

Keymaker. That is definately the R33GTST standard pump. Not sure on the walbro one but assuming it is the high-flowing pump (and genuine) it should be fine. A lot of decent tuners recommend them

If you have a PFC you can. Just selct VG30 from the Airflow selection table. Mine ran really rich so you can add some % correction ..i.e for 5 diff voltage increments you can change to 90% or less. Not sure how it would run on a stock comp.. Might run but very lean so be careful.

turbo off plus manilfod off. Budget on a fair bit of time. Probably about 4 hours to get it all off. Get a stud remover guy out (~$180 to $200 including studs) or weld a nut or ezy out. New gasket etc ~$100 If you cant see much soot on there and you arent going to keep the car that long I wouldnt bother. Mine were like that for 2+ years. I only fixed them when I took the turbo off to highflow. But if it gets real bad it can create a chaneel in the head!

i wouldnt go by the front cover no. that is unreliable.

is that just soot or a shandow? and isnt that where the exh manifold bolts up. Probably just a leaky gasket casued that!

The boost 98 petrol is good and you can use it but it will run slightly leaner - not a problem if stock ecu usually. It also has a lower energy value per litre than standard fuel so you won't go quite as far on a given volume compared to 0% ethanol petrol. You can make more power on it by advancing the timing a bit though.

1. Replace your 02 sensor - (About $50 for generic one) 2. Check brakes arent grabbing - jack up car and spin each wheel 3. Check tyres are around 35psi (I measure when hot so put in 36psi) 4. Check your coolant temp is around the 1/2 mark on the dial. If your coolant temp sensor or thermostat is casuing the ECU to think it is running cold then the ECU will run the engine very rich - had this problem with a corolla anfd gained ~50km a tank. 5. Does the wheel alignment seem ok? 6. Run some fuel injector cleaner (redex one is good - $15 concentrated - use around 20-50ml) 7. Replace spark plugs with NGK BKR6E ($20 for 6) 8. Use some contact adhesive cleaner or equivalent ($10 Jaycar) and spray your AFM 9. Get a $50 dyno run once this is done to check idle and light throttle Air/fuel ratio is at 14.7, also get a log of the A/F Ratio at full throttle (most likely very rich) All up about $150 This may save you a ~$10/week on fuel and you will also know that your Air fuel ratio is safe at full throttle or not. To fix the richness at full throttle get a SAFC and tune ~$500 or PFC ~$1500 I get around 10-12L/100km depensing on driving. Highway should be 10! which means 400km ~ $55 ($1.35 for premium)

4.2L for the engine.

thats hard to say. I know with mine it was a bit like - "feels about right" aswell as following the procedure. I thought I did mine pretty tight but no whining. I know other cars weve had done at the mechanic had a different engine note after the cam belt change - i.e. a bit more whiney You used nissan belt..i see. Not sure mate. You could take it to a mechanic to show them the tension. Just take the top cover off outside the garage after youve showed them the noise its making... if youre really concerned.

Ive just got all straight hoses. $20. The larger bore resevoir to pump I got made a little longer. It now makes its own way up and doesn't kink. It's all good.

did you use genuine nissan - I hear that some of the guys on here have trouble with the gates being a bit noisier. Its a bitch because if you dont get it right the first time you have to undo the crank bolt again to get the timing cover off right?

Just had a closer look with the airbox etc. It might be possible to just use straight hose. Probably not the most ideal though

I'm looking at getting the 2 hoses from the reservoir. The return hose (smaller diam) and the hose to pump (bigger). Both are low pressure so only require hose clamps. I might try Enzed but these have some prefabricated bends in them. I am getting one parts place to look into it. I think maybe the smaller one I could just use straight hose but the other would be harder. I think Nissan would rip the sht out of me.

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I paid the thread bloke under $100 which saved me taking the manifold off (just put new gasket on 3 months ago)... I should have put new turbo manifold studs in then!! One of the threads wasnt pefect on the turbo thread and it seemed to seize even more ...what a c--t All good now. Threadman is a top bloke. He reckons he gets heaps of skylne guys..one of the most common cars with broken studs hahah

so you dont risk the studs coming loose? I guess if you use the correct locking mechanism. In nissans case the metal tabs...