benl1981

I had the same thing. The last time I did it I hardly bothered with the bleed bolt. Just idle it up to operating temp with the bleed bolt almost out and the rad cap open -keep topping up. Take the car for a short drive (with cap and bolt done up). Let it cool..open up bleed screw, then rad cap and add extra.

thanks mate. Would take $140 for it. Not much of a risk and the bearings feel like they are in great nick.

Is the idea of a stud to only be done up finger tight then once the nut is put on the torque tightens up the stud in the hole also? Cheers http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/19/32/

I have the excel G shocks also. They are pretty good. I do get some body roll..on the skidpan it wasnt as flat as other cars. My car is the sedan so whether the spring rates are lower. I wouldnt mind adding maybe a rear ajustable sway bar to tighten it up a little when required. But for my car 95% street driven this is pretty good. hopefully they will be ok with 240rwkw. I paid $99 each for the rear and $120 each for the fronts. I bought the rears at PEP's gladesville and the fronts at TLC mona vale. So all up $440. I used steering rack boots as dust boots.

So is the proper way to only tighten the stud finger tight? Cheers

So when you guys put in new studs do you use the double nut trick then nip them up just a little..or do you torque them up close to the torque of the nut to go one them? Actually I think you dont really want to tighten them up too much since you sill start cutting the thread oin the shank. The nut will tighten it anyway I guess. Highly recomend Threadman. He is in Mona Vale. He drilled it out and put a helicoil in since it was seized that bad.

SOLD

bump

This is going onto ebay on the weekend unless I can get $180 for the cooler + shroud. Otherwise $150 for the intercooler and will sell the shroud for $40.

I think it is ceramic.. Not totally sure though. It is a vg30 BB turbo with R33 exhaust housing.

Here are some pics 1. You are right. It is a VG30 front housing. It is really a VG30 Ball Bearing turbo, however the exhaust housing is now the slihlty smaller R33. You can see this as it has 21U on the housing. 2. I can include VG30 dump and or Rb25 dump Like I say I can not gaurantee the turbo but there is very minimal play so it may be fine. R33 turbos requiring rebuild are worth $150 anyways.

Does it flash 3 times? It is knock I would say. If you said it was under full throttle and the light just stays on for a second or 2 it would either be maxing out AFM or injectors. Both likely if you have the standard items. This time my money is on knock since it is low load

hahah. No probs. good luck with the sale. Pretty good upgrade for r33s up from the 370cc injectors that are stock.

If the r33 is a manual then get it. Either way I think the R33 will be better. It all depends on condition though and what you like the look/feel of.

SOLD

Just trying to help you with your sale! Better check your facts and relax a little. I have S15 injectors here and they are side feed to suit R33. R34 are NOT the same style!

If they are S15 injectors they wont fit an R34 but will fit an R33. S15 + R33 = side feed R34 = top feed (I believe)

I keep snapping off the weld. I think I am going to call the stud remver bloke. I guess I could just drill the whole stud, since I think it is sealed - Ccouldnt feel the stud come through the other side).. I.e. the metal fillings won't go anywhere

Yeah it could just be the gasket. If you have had bad corrosion through the head (i.e. no coolant changes etc) it is possible to get corrosion around the water galleries and head gasket. But yeah these motors arent really prone at all. Pull it down yourself and take the head somewhere decent and get it tested. Check hoses etc and everything else first. Maybe there is a simpler answer. I remember a friend that pulled a turbo off and put a new one on because he thought it was blown (heaps of smoke)..turned out being a valve for the auto trans fluid that was getting into the intake. A $5 valve Check if there is water in the intake pipe!

its a tough one - your almost better off dumping a 2nd hand motor in (Can get motors for about 1k I think). But who knows how long that will last. You could take the head off and get it inspected and recod. This would probably cost >1k

Hey mate. Yeah I disconnected batt and ECU just in case Yeah the nut was too thick. I counterunk one and will try it on the weekend. The amount that is sticking out (about 1 threads wirth) is how much I got it to turn.. but that was with a big breaker bar.. Once I got the turbo off I have now saturated it with penetrating oil and rust buster. Hopefully that will reduce the torque required to undo..

Im pretty sure the Thread into the manifold is M10x1.5 and the section protruding is M10x1.25

Nah mate they were old ones. I just tried the welding but didnt seem to get enough penetration on the stud. Was pretty hard to get a good angle. I had one decent go but then the weld snapped and back to square one. Thinking of wlding a washer around it then the nut to the large washer, That way I can get better coverage. Was hoping to have this done by the weekend! Wish I was more patient at first.

chris - do you usually disconnect battery and ECU before welding. Dont want to blow up the PFC!!

Yeah you're right mate I am impatient)!!. Should have let it soak overnight and eased into it a bit..but wanted to get the turbo off last night so I could get it fixed by the weekend. Cars been running crap for too long. Not going home tonight but will get someone to soak it for me while I'm away. Thanks