benl1981

Yeah you're right mate I am impatient)!!. Should have let it soak overnight and eased into it a bit..but wanted to get the turbo off last night so I could get it fixed by the weekend. Cars been running crap for too long. Not going home tonight but will get someone to soak it for me while I'm away. Thanks

Thanks BH - Will try that. But wouldn't an easy out be NO good for any situation were the stud is so tight you need a big breaker bar causing it to snap? Wouldnt the easy out usually snap sooner than the thick bolt? I guess once you break it you are closer to the part that is locked (less torsion load in the bolt). I might buy a special rust buster product to free up the rust. I have some decent penetrating oil but might get some stronger stuff. Will do the other 3 at the same time - good idea. Is Nissan the best place for studs and nuts or can you get them aftermarket?

Here are the pics.

Its the top left one. When looking at the 4 studs from the passenger side...I have a pic in my phone but no means to d/load it

Probably wont be able to se what's going on when welding - just have to aim it in there and pull the trigger Yeah got a mig but I dont use it that much. let me know if you need something done. I used to have gas but now just usually use the gasless wire.

I should have been more patient with it last night Thanks for the tips. So still use a normal size nut? Just grind off about 0.5mm or so to ensure thread engages straight away? I'll get into it with the penetrating oil. Cheers

Just took off my high flow to get fixed. One of the nuts holding the turbo to the manifold had seized so that when I went to undo the nut it spun the whole stud. It was really tough to undo it. I sprayed some wd40 etc. After about 1-2 turns I snapped it so that only 1-2mm is protruding out from the manifold. I can thread a nut onto it (just enough). Was wondering if putting the nut on then filling the middle with weld (welding the nut to the stud from the middle would be the way to go. (I have a Mig wleder- hopefully can get the nozzle in ok) The torque required to undo it was heaps. I was trying with quite a large breaker bar, hence why the stud snapped. So I guess it will take a fair bit to get it out. I just put a new exh manifold gasket and studs on ~3 months ago so would like to leave that in place

bugger about the turbo chris Sweetr33 I have PFC that was tuned to the stock turbs..i have now changed to Z32 afm that richened itup heaps (even though I selected it) - I have added some correction but still richer than before to be safe. No tune as yet..waiting to sort alll this out. Sounds like I may go the vg30

Im ripping my turbo off tonight and getting it fixed. I have a blown R33 GCG and VG30 turbo for parts. Might sell 1 of them or sell some of the parts after I've used what I need. The VG30 BB turbo is actually in really good nick. No shaft play. Might wack a different exh housing on it and sell it as a hybrid. Have you had yours tuned CHris? If so how does it go? You happy with it now? What sort of power you making?

Really would like to know how laggy it is. At the moment the R33 highflow with a slightly smaller exh wheel and bigg comp wheel than current GCG feels a little doughy..maybe because its running a bit rich. The FMIC definately killed the response a bit.. Are HKS GTRS a lot less laggy than the R33 highflow with VG30. Is a standard R33 high flow more comparable to a GTRS?

Yeah I see. But I dont understand how it is different to the R34 turbo: Comp wheel looks the same same comp cover same exh housing same looking exh wheel.

anybody have direct comparison from a R33 hiflow - then changed the exh housing to VG30? Cheers

its not a vg30 rear wheel..its a high flow of some sort. Why is the vg30 considered a bad turbo? It is BB - has the same comp cover and wheel as the R33 turbo and the same exh housing as the R34 turbo (larger)..

so sweet - what sort of lag do you have compared to stock? Is it very noticeable? Did you have the R33 housing on the hiflow to start with? Thanks

The inlet they would use a lathe but the exh housing would be a mill job I would imagine. They cant really grip it in the jaws but on the inlet sid you can. I'm keen on low-midrange also so I am thinking of sticking to the r33 housing. I like the wheelspin

thanks sweetr33. thats good power at only 15psi!! What about your 1/4 time. I thought with that power you should be mid 12s. Were you wheelspin city?

Thanks mate. So the difference is very minimal? Might go the vg30 then.. But the r33 Hiflow housing seems to make 240rwkw - bu would it make that easier with the vg30?

I am getting my turbo fixed by GCG> I want to know if it is worth getting the VG30 housing for around 240rwkw or will it just cause more lag. For 240rwkw is it better to stick with the R33 housing to retain response? Thanks

Yep. The 4 cyl vs 6cyl thing. On a 6cyl they should be good for around 250rwkw. I will have 2 spare soon if you get a set of 4 you can buy the other 2 off me. I bought 2 sets..

This is not possible unless your fuel pressure reg is busted allowing huge line pressure or you have aftermarket injectors and don't know about it or the dyno setttings have been tweaked

$200 with shroud. Any takers. After installing FMIC I can honestly say that if you are sticking with the stock turbo up to about 210rwkw this is such a easy, cheap and effective mod.

Aren't you scared of the ceramic wheel shattering? Hell they do that at around 200rwkw and 12psi boost. Also, So you are leaving a decent gap between the exhaust impeller and the housing..that is inducing lag/inefficiency isn't it? Just a couple of thoughts but the results sound great. So you are still using the very small exhaust wheel. Interesting And you didn't get it balanced with the new compressor wheel??

So can anybody tell me the measurement of the exhaust wheel inducer on curent spec GCG turbos - thanks

So SK are you saying the R32 and R33 exh housing are virtually the same? Thanks

Hey Dale - It looks like you used an R32 exh housing rather than the R33. I can't see the 21U on it and I can see a shaved off rib like on my one here that i think is R32. Let me guess it had "04U" cast on it? Also, Do you have the inducer and exducer dimensions. Also, why did you go for the larger comp housing than the nissan one? It is a little wider is it? Thanks