benl1981

bump

Its cool mate. It's just that my seal wasn't good enough to reuse. Whats this secret you've got ..ahahah

Well I just rang nissan and they said $31 .. Does anyone do an aftermarket seal? I gave them code 17342-79900 Should have got the tomei kit

thanks Dan. Doesn't sound promising. What did you replace it with? and what did it cost? Has it still a reasonable feel and weight? So you think you could maybe get the car tuned to 240rwkw (at say 1.2bar) then back off the boost a little (to about 1 bar) to hopefully run a safe 220rwkw without issues? Thanks

Nathan at Grey Imports Annandale.

Well if you leave the bottom piece for the pump to still sit on it it has to be spaced out from the main assembly that I was hose clamping it to. So I just chopped the bugger off. 1 hose clamp will do..as you say the hoses are holding it and the clamp. There is no real load on it. Maybe some vibration from the unit but 2 is overkill. 1 in the middle of the 2 ridges on the pump is good for me... My tank seal was a bit split and when I tried to put it back in its become all mangled. The petrol has deteriorated it and made it all tacky etc. the car is almost 14 years old now!! And I'm going to be pushing it to make as much power or more than a new 6L v8 hahah

Well I guess that makes sense then. Do you have problems with when you get really low on fuel i.e. it not picking up the last 5-10 litres? Oh, you didn't use the post either is that what you mean? I don't see it as a major problem but thought maybe I hadn't lined something up right.

Well I got it all the way down now. My +ve terminal is next to the bracket I think. When you swapped over the sock it would be the wrong orientation if you used the locating post..did you just push it on as tight as possible and not use the locating post and locking star washer?

Yeah I cut the bottom of the bracket off. When you rotate the body of the pump so that the sock will angle the correct way the bit at the top fouls on the tank. SO I rotated the pump so it doesnt foul but then I can't use the locating post for the sock. Was wondering how you did yours. I cut some of the pipe you are talking about also.. so that it sat on the next bead..

what power did you get to Birnie? Bad luck mate! What is your AFM voltage at idle. It would be good to be able to tell if it is faulty beofre all the tuning. I have to purchase one of these soon also

Well Ive been having issues. The gtr pump is a bit of a fiddle to get into the GTST. You have to be careful with how your rotate the body of the pump. The GTR pump has a piece at the top (not sure what it is) Maybe a relief valve or something. This fouls on the tank if rotated incorrectly. See fouling on pic..pump couldn't go all the way down Also when you take the sock off the GTST pump you cant use the post and lock washer as you need to rotate it to the same orientation. Chris did you find the same problem? When you push it on hard it seems to hold pretty tight. Hopefully this is ok. OLD PUMP I still haven't been able to test it as I need a new tank seal as mine is rooted. So for me it wasn't a 2 hour job NEW/2nd hand GTR PUMP

Got the old pump out. Compared to the GTR pump the physical size it is almost identical!!!!!!! I got told the GTR pump is a lot larger. Is The R33gtst part no. A42-T22 ??

What sort of power did you get to Birnie? Where did you get the brand new AFM from?

Item: R33 Rb25 Turbo Location: Sydney Conditon: 2nd Hand - excellent condition. Minimal shaft play Price: $340 without actuator Reason for sale: Turbo upgrade, turbo has only just been taken off Pickup Only unless someone interstate is really desperate. Other Info: I will need the actuator, hence will be selling minus the actuator. If you have an Rb20 you are much better off just wacking the one on from your old turbo. This turbo has the metal compressor wheel not the nylon one which is a bonus. Great condition, minimal shaft Play. Run at stock boost still last year where it was raised to 9.5psi and made 172rwkw on a conservative dyno. Hasn't seen a track day and I don't drive it hard. Only recently been removed from car (2-3 weeks ago)

Thanks URAS, but I don't think it is as you can also get the problem when not backing off I think. I'll try it again and watch the injector duty when it is happening, but I still don't think it would jerk like this..

I have a 450hp high flow with stock BOV. IT hasn't been tuned, still running standard turbo tune. I find sometimes when giving a little throttle around 3000rpm accelerating, then backing slowly off the throttle I get a jerk from the car. If you look at the Map tracer it jumps up and down.. SK reckons that you can add more timing and fuel to get rid of this, however I have added more timing and it seems to be a little better. I spoke to another tuner and he reckons it's normal with the bigger turbos and can't really be tuned out. Wondering if anone else gets this. It's not real bad, it depends on your driving style. You could drive and not notice it but if you do a lot of bringing it up onto boost and esing off slowly you can definately feel it. Anyone with 2530, or slide or GCG had this problem? Thanks

I even replaced coils with another set - problem still there.

It doesnt look like you have any form of engine management. I had the same problem on 10psi. Plugged in a Powerfc and problem gone! Your engine is goign into rich and retard mode most likely. You have increased the airflow into the engine by freeing up the intake and exhaust. maybe if you had stock cooler and exhaust 10psi would be ok but now with all your mods the computer is freaking out that there is too much airflow.. I doubt splitfires will help at all.

So you didn't use the nitrile rubber sheet on yours then? Thanks mate. Hopefully I can do this on the weekend and get 1 step closer to a tune

Chris, Bad new about your turbo When you installed your GTR pump did you use the rubber type material you were talking about around it in between the pump and the hose clamp? If so where did you get it and how much did you use and how much was it? thanks

Hi there, I think the last owner fitted a Daikin nissan patrol clutch to my r33. It feels quite a bit heavier than a stock clutch. It was fitted about 40k kms ago and is showing no signs of wear. My question: Has anyone used this type of clutch making close to 250rwkw? If so how long has it lasted or is it still going. I know it depends a lot on driving style and I never slip the clutch so I'm hoping it will survive.

When you get a tune I would think they would put them back to 100%. Taking it down to 82% would just be to get it running until you get the tune, so that it is similar to the previous injectors.

From the posts I've read it is more like 230-235rwkw but youll get very good midrange. Just do the injectors or the fuel pressure reg. Injectors are better. S15 200sx manuals are 450cc

Hi Chris, Nice one..how's the turbo going? If you pull the return line I believe the pressure should be the same as the rail pressure, hence it is not free flowing. I'm not going to calculate it out but use it as comparison only.. "Nissan R33 Skyline GT-R stock. This factory Nismo fuel pump was tested to flow 252 lph at 43 psi and 13.5 volts."

anyone?