benl1981

anyone?

yeah. Nathan at grey imprts does them for about 20-25, I think I will get them done. Thanks fellas!

I have some S15 injectors that have been sitting around for 6 months to 1 year. Is there anyway to clean them quickly at home (just immerse them in fuel?) I have been quoted $40 each injector to replace o rings, pintle caps, flow test at full open and also pulsing. The injectors being from S15s are probably only 3-4 years old. Is it overkill replacing the pintle caps? Do the pintle caps protect the nozzle? Or anyone know somewhere in Sydney that flow tests for about $10-20 each Cheers

Thanks for the answers. Well the pressure should be set by the fuel pressure reg so if I time the amount of seconds it takes to fill the 10 litres then I should be right? This is only for a fairly basic check..to check the pump is superior to the stock gtst one. Cheers

Ok. I have an R32 GTR pump to go into my r33 GTST. The pump is supposedly not that old but it’s hard to tell. I was given a little anti reversion valve with it. I have a few questions. 1. Can you test the pump without fuel, listening to what it sounds like or can this damage the pump? 2. Do I need to fit the anti reversion valve so I don’t have to prime the line every time? Does the R33gtst standard pump have one inbuilt in the pump or can I just reuse the old r33gtst anti reversion valve? 3. Do you usually need any seals or can you just reuse the tank seal? Depends on condition I guess. How much are these? How often are they reusable. 4. Is the bucket test a good measure for the condition of the pump? Time how long it takes to fill a 10 litre bucket (i.e. with the return fuel) with the old pump. Then repeat with the GTR pump 5. The sock on the GTR pump is a lot smaller than the GTST pump sock that I have seen in photos. Is it ok to use the GTR sock or should I remove and put the GTST sock on. Hopefully it all works out. The tuner likes walbro pumps but I already have the GTR pump

Hey lads, I got the first lot of 4 injectors, getting the others this arvo. Just a question around the plastic area it appears the plastic has been damaged a bit. Must have been when they removeed them from the rail. I have shown using somebody elses pic where the plastic has been damaged. Is this an issue at all? I thought they were held in with other brackets.. Thanks

Thanks Birnie. Sounds very doable. I wonder how much all the seals cost from Nissan..I guess you could just order all S15 seals.. So what seals do you think are necessary to replace from your experience. I see you had 4 seals per injector was it? Cheers

Did you have to take the plenum off and everything? If so did you reuse the inlet manifold gasket? 4 hours isn't too bad. Did you flow test the old S15 injectors? Before and after cleaning? How much all up did the new injectors cost you? Including the pump then? Cheers

Oh yeah. The intake manifold. I think I connected it where the factory boost gauge taps off..Maybe that explains it then as it is closer to No.6 ??

Just replaced the spark plugs the other day and thought I'd shine a torch down the spark plug hole. Now most had a fairly black coating on the piston tops (carbon I would imagine). In some areas you can see the metal. However, on No. 6 piston there was no carbon at all. You could even see a letter/no. cast in the metal. Is No.6 running leaner or is this normal for it to be different. Anyone else looked down their holes None of them had pitting but was wondering if this tells you anything about the fueling and timing. I pulled out the copper plugs at 35k kms and they all looked ok and consistent. At one point I connected a vacuum line up to an injctor cleaner bottle and regulated a bit through. It blew a heap of smoke for a couple of minutes after that ..not so sure I want to do it again..

Haha. Anyone with xray eyes? Youd have to take the timing belt cover off and even then you can't be sure, sometimes the top of the belt looks ok but there could be cracks on the underneath side. If you know the cars history and trust it then maybe you might not bother replacing it, providing it's been replaced. Otherwise it is a bit of a risk. These are interference engines so if it snaps you're in the poo.

power steering is the one that carries the high pressures.. 2c worth

someone must know. It's labelled pretty well on the rb25 one. Cheers

Anyone got this no.? Also, anybody got the rb25 wastegate actuator no.? Thanks

bump

bamr33 - have you got pics yet? I'm going to imbark on this soonish. Probably will just use mild steel so I can weld myself and wack a coat of black paint on the outside... I see justjap have the coolers for around 170. Did you use tube and fin? 2.5 inch piping?

Its hesitating when easing off the throttle - not when fully off it. Maybe at some low load points it is also..i.e. at low revs medium load. Fuel economy is still the same. I have only changed the turbo - nothing else.

Can anyone help me with providing some maps as I am having a bit of an issue with low rpm hesitation. Cheers

I'm starting this thread so there is somewhere to compare maps..Not sure if this has been started already somewhere else. I have a GCG high flow that has some hesitation/misfire when backing off slowly. SK said that it is common to have to increase ignition advance by 10 to 15 deg over the default maps at certain load points in order to get the 450hp turbo to run smoothly on the Rb25. I am after someone with either stock turbo and tuned precisly or someone with a GCG high flow and stock AFM to share there maps so I can drive it for a while before I get a tune as I still have to add a few mods. I have been playing around a bit but it's easy to get too much knock..with the stupd hand controller and driving it makes it hard. I don't have datalogit so if anyone has the maps in .xls (excel) it would be good. I remember Paulr33 did quite a bit of work with adding advance to the first 10 x10 lot of cells.. THanks!

Birnie, After the PFC tune at 194rwkw what were your stock injectors seeing at max load? Did you get to 80% or more? Is that at base fuel pressure? I see you are going to S15 injectors Thanks

If you want to do everything then you would do cam seals, crank seals, tensioner stud, bearings, water pump and maybe crank seal. I replaced what was easy and cheap (timing belt $75 and bearings $75). The water pump felt fine and no sign of leaks so I left it. There was no leaks around the engine so didn't do cam seals either. If there was any doubt about the pump I would have replaced it. Don't get the Rb30 one as one bolt is out of alignment. Get the genuine for about $150.

Well don't tighten it!! If it is weak and you tighten you run the risk of it snapping. It does look a little loose but can't really see the pressure you are putting on it. Probably a good idea to replace within a few months. If the bearings are at all bad replace them. I found a place that does them for under $80 for the ideler and the tensioner - Genuine NGK!. Cheap insurance CHeck the water pump. If paying to get it done then I would get it replaced. If doing it yourself check how the bearing feels in the water pump. If any signs of leaking then replace.

Yeah keep us posted I was going to buy one from this bloke 2. They are quite long though..

Ceramic turbine exhaust wheel - not nylon. No way would nylon withstand the exhaust gas temps.

what colour are they?