benl1981

It was to remove 2 broken ones. He provided the 12 studs and fitted them. Yeah for peace of mind I think it was worth it. He did ask if I had attempted to take the stud out..if so the price goes up to $230+ straight up

Drivebai. Stud remover bloke: $140 including new studs Exhaust manifold: $88 Nissan + a couple of missing washers (about $5) Machining of manifold: $60 So just under $300 I can Pm you the stud remover bloke details. He was pretty good.

Yeah everything lined up perfect. Hoping it isn't much laggier than stock. Will find out tomorrow.

I see your point but I doubt the yokes would have moved over time i.e. you can see they are well off centre by the mark they left.. Good point about the warping and then machining. The amount it had warped was only enough to be out by about 0.8mm end to end, hardly enough to make the huge difference at the slotted holes.. but I guess possible. I just hope the studs dont give way again otherwise Ill be pissed. Changing turbo + manifold removal etc takes a while. Would be quicker next time - but hopefully there isnt a next time, atleast on this car

Used drills and reamers to enlarge the stud slots in the manifold (would have been better with die-grinder - but bunnings wasn't open). What a c..t of a job. All looks good now - machined manifold sat flush against head. Almost all back together. Will get some new sparkies tomorrow while piping is off. It appears the manifold was out from the factory. You could see where all the yokes (spacers) had been sitting and there were a few of them right at the extremities of the slot, stopping the manifold from going on. Wonder if the bloke on the assembly line had to have a hammer with him... hahaha

they are both steels so the density is the same..its the fact they usually make the stainless thinner is the weight saving

If there the slightest bit noisy or any play replace them. I found a place that sells them for under $80 for the 2. Complete assemblies.. Bering Industries Seven hills Not worth the risk

Thanks guys. Need your help again...want to get my car back on the road tomorrow!!! Progress Had the manifold machined flat, new studs all round and new nissan gasket. I'm trying to get the manifold to go back on but it is really tight!! Does anyone know the sequence I should do the nuts up or had this problem. I'm thinking of drilling out the holes in the manifold as they are binding big time. I'm wiggling it round, tilting etc but it gets about 1/2 to 3/4 on and is really tight. I think I may have slightly damaged one of the new threads trying to do up 4 of the nuts to bring it in. Anyone had experience with this!!?? It was hard to get it off also..I'm wondering what the problem is..the head couldn't be that warped I would think..hope. Something has to be out. PS - thanks operationsideways - picked up the paper gasket today. They had to order it in though.. Thanks I wish I didn't touch the exhaust manifold..$300 later and Im still having issues.

Let me know if any interest

Thanks Chris, I pmd you

Just need the actuator - will pay up to $30. I'm in Sydney Thanks

Item: R33 Rb25 Turbo Location: Sydney Conditon: 2nd Hand - excellent condition. Minimal shaft play Price: $340 without actuator Reason for sale: Turbo upgrade, turbo has only just been taken off Pickup Only unless someone interstate is really desperate. Other Info: I most likely will need the actuator, hence will be selling minus the actuator. If I can find an Rb20 actuator in the meantime then I will sell it with the actuator. This turbo has the metal compressor wheel not the nylon one which is a bonus. Great condition, minimal shaft Play. Run at stock boost still last year where it was raised to 9.5psi and made 172rwkw on a conservative dyno. Hasn't seen a track day and I don't drive it hard. Should be ready for sale by next weekend (just want to check the new turbo works etc before I sell this)

Trooper - when did you use action thread repair. They quoted $150-170 not providing the studs!

So you saying the thread length is the same on either side for the replacement ones? Or are the ones you got just a bit longer? Cheers

If your only seeing it occassionally I reckon your only really making 180-190rwkw..depending on the dyno At 217rwkw you should max it out easily all the time. Maybe at 4500-5000rpm. I max mine out at 170ish rwkw with AFR around 11.8:1 at 10psi 15 psi stock turbo? wow that's a lot hahaha

280 or 200 is cheap. Good 3-4 hours work..normal rate is about $80-$100 an hour

Ok. I got all the studs out except the already snapped ones. 1. The paper gasket on the oil return line (i incorrectly marked it in the pic as water) is that available anywhere? The nissan dealership/spares I called couldnt help. I would rather get the genuine part..If not I guess I'll have to buy some gasket paper. What does everyone else do? 2. Is there any risk in re-using the turbo to manifold gasket? I hear the nissan one is a lot better than even the GCG one they provide...mine appears ok to look at. Quite thick metal..

hey wogsrus - is that $14 for the 12? Did you get 40mm length ones?

SK, Do you usually replace yours? Would you bother - looking at the pic attached or is it not really necessary?

thanks. Yeah - oil line sorry. It heads into the sump so yeah... I might replace the hose from the oil line drain to the sump also and put some now clamps on it. Might take it off and see if Pirtek have something similar... Anyone else found something suitable? I think I will do it all now..like you say it would be bad to wack it all together and find out I have issues later.. Manwhore - do you usually reuse your manifold to turbo gaskets? Cheers

Hi there, Just in the process of doing a turbo change 2 issues that I would like some opinions on: 1. 2 missing exhaust manifold studs. I notice some people say to leave them as they break almost straight away after replacing anyway. The top stud on no. 1 and no.6 are missing (broken off inside) but the no.1 shows evidence of some leakage. Should I just replace the studs that are missing, as I may cause other problems replacing ones that are ok or replace all of them or leave it as is and hope it doesn't leak anymore. Anybody left theres like this and found it to be ok? I hear the rb30 manifold gaskets fit if you trim a little - is that true? Can anyone recommend a stud remover bloke? 2. Turbo gasket seal I have reused the dump pipe one beofre and that was till ok (they are a metal gasket).. I'm thinking of reusing the manifold to turbo one - is that what most people do? I will have to get the water seal for the bottom side of the turbo...anybody know how much these are? Is GCG the best place to get them or anywhere else in Sydney.. Thanks!

R33 god have you got a Z32 AFM? If not when does your AFM hit 5.1v? Around 4000rpm ? Curious as I am about to throw on a highflow .. Are you just speculating or is that what duty cycle you are seeing?

13k

With the PFC you can go into sensor check fuction and check the voltage is toggling between about 0.2v and 0.8v. A signal <0.5v means lean and >0.5 = rich. It should change every second or so at idle. It still doesn't tell you that it is maintaining 14.7 AFR when in closed loop but give you some idea.

So what sort of power would the 450 x 300 x 76 support up to. Would it support up to about 240rwkw? if theres a lot of welding for the pipework required I might just use mild steel and paint it so I can do it with my mig.