benl1981

BAMR33 - do you have any pics. I'm interested in your setup. Was it a big job for you. Did you weldt he pipes at all or just use silicon joiners where you needed? Besides welding the 2 x 90 to make the 180 deg.

So you saying splice it right at the connector almost? When you say reference which colour wire came from which original position you would have to hack it up a little near the plug to get in there and have a look... And do you usually just tape it up after? Or put some heat shrink over it? Cheers

BAMR33 - Do you use the 180 degree bend to com round the back behind cthe cooler and go back into stock pipe locations? Thanks

I've had a look through and found some pin outs for the z32 AFM but does anybody know what colour wires relate to which pins on the rb30 plug? I have the Rb30 plug with about 30 cm left of the orginal wiring on it so I was just going to join it up there. thanks fellas

Is it essential you turn the car off to complete the reset? I did this the other day without turning the car off but all the maps were still there after the data init step. I thought it must have been locked..

Are you best draining the engine oil? I was going to do an oil change but may wait and do the turbo at the same time if it would be less messy..

test drove a 06 rex and felt my only slightly modded r33 was a better sorted car in terms of performance and feel on the road. The awd is great for the wet but you can also have a bit more fun in the rwd..if you're careful Obviously it was a newer car - less rattles and nicer inside - but hey for another 25k you'd hope so. R33s are bloody reliable

You don't have to cut a big hole in the snorkel do you? I saw a pic of one massacred. Cheers

Hey guys. Can you keep the stock airbox and snorkel with the Just Jap FMIC. I see on some cars the return pipe up from intercooler up to manifold interferes with the snorkel. Cheers

Nice 4 door mate. The 4 door comes in handy So you got about 230rwkw did you? Was that running the stock AFM. At what revs did you max it out? I..e whne does it hit 5.1V?

Thanks Dale. Is N16 about 6000rpm? I'm surprised your AFM doesn't max out a lot earlier. Mine with the stock turbo at 10psi hits about 5.05V at about 5500rpm. That makes me question whether I might have problems.. Good point about the clutch. I think I might only go to about 220rwkw as I dont really want to have to do my clutch aswell. Will cost a lot more to get to 250rwkw.. Sounds like you have a good spread of useable power The bloke that has 226rwkw seems to max his out at 4000rpm here..in the hpi article http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/195/z32p1dv6.jpg http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/5568/z32p2pp8.jpg http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7972/z32p3np2.jpg http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/7904/z32p4lr2.jpg

Hi Dale, Reading this thread with interest. I'm aiming for about 220rwkw like you had I think (295rwhp) - but with a GCG turbo. I see you kept the stock AFM..did you also have the stock injectors and stock FPR but upgraded fuel pump? What sort of inj duty did you have at 180rwkw? and what max AFM voltage (e.g. 5050mV?) And what inj duty do you see at 220rwkw? I have 172rwkw and see around 70-75% max inj duty. I have seen up to 5.1v but mostly around 5040mV Thanks for the help with this. Is 295rwhp the furthest you have taken it? Is it very quick? Cheers

thats bad about the high flow.. It musn't be that much more than 4 years old, since they haven't been making them that long. I would expect it to last a lot longer than that..irrespective of km..

hahah I'm about to do the same thing - go from about 170 to about 220 to 230. It's almost a 30% increase so it should be good. I also would like to know how much of a difference it will be. I realise the boost wont come on quite as quick (will be using GCG high flow).. The way I see it I will lose a bit from 2000rpm to about 3500rpm but after that it will be ++.. So I lose power over 1500rpm to gain 3500rpm (i.e. from 3500-7000rpm) Cheers

Thanks Sydneykid. I was just concerned that I may blow the motor if the pump fails.. Hope for the best I guess. But if you have trusted them (even though they are old) I feel a little better Cheers Ben

Hey there Just sourced a R32GTR fuel pump for my R33GTST. Aiming for around 220-230rwkw so better to upgrade from the stocker. The pump is supposedly only about 5-10,000kms old. This may or may not be true as I didn't see a receipt for it. I did ring Nissan and they just quoted me $880 for a new one, so the bloke that bought it new either shelled out a shtload or was telling porky pies or had a cheaper source than Nissan Sydney. What I am wondering is if anyone has any idea on how long these pumps are good for? I know it comes down to a lot of variables.. It appears that the body of it is in very good condition and you can read the writing on it very easily. Is this a sign that the pump is farly new? Would a 15y.o. pump be visibly arnished by the petrol? Will be installing it soon and will see how it goes but was keen to hear from others that have put R32GTR pumps on their R33GTST's Thanks!!

Its on the same car though...so I thought you may be able to compare.. Provided the fuel pump etc can hold the pressure. Yeah - Ill probably get a Nismo FPR and set it about 8 or 10psi above stock pressure. Does anyone know what stock fuel filters are rated at? I.e. how many psi ..because 46psi + 15psi (for boost) = 61psi max fuel pressure See how we go. Cheers

Just wondering if anyone has had practical experience with injectors and rwkw. Can you use a linear relationship to determine the approx duty cycle as you raise the boost and make more power. e.g. If you are seeing 70% inj duty ~ 170rwkw If linear then at 90% inj duty should be ~ 218rwkw (based on quick calc) And I guess 90% is about the most you want to push it.. Question: I'm going to keep my stock injectors so would I be safer to 1. Just tune till these get close to 90% and live with that (Would that be around the 220rwkw..). Or 2. Would I be best to increase the Fuel pressure slightly so that the inj duty max 85%? I really want to get about 220rwkw which will be about a 27% increase in power. I realise I should renew some of the hose to do this.. P.s. I'm going to be putting in a gtr pump to ensure the pump isn't limiting things.. The R34 in HPI got to 90% @225rwkw http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/reviews02.htm

Hi Sk. I'm pertty sure both bolt holes were the same depth, quite deep that is. If you were to try rotating it off the car you should be able to do it right? I might try and put it in a vice and see if I can rotate it. Thanks.

I'm not sure what duro they are, but hopefully the one different bush doesn't make too much of a difference. Anyway. I'll try what your saying. I might have to put something in the vise so that it doesn't rip the poly apart. I still don't see how you could get it to pivot easily within the poly bushes to adjust the camber. Do you have to bottom the bolt out in the threaded hole before you can adjust? Have you adjusted it before SK? How much effort was required. Thanks

Hey SK. Thanks for the tips. Got the old ones out ok but now another problem. When I'm hammering through the tube from the top the bottom poly bush pushes out slightly...no matter how much I try to support it. The one I'm showing was the best one. The passenger side one was out by about 5-8mm. Do I need a press. I used a piece of wood and tried to hammer the poly bush in but no matter how hard I go it won't go back. Any ideas? Thanks I tried to put the control arm in the picture in the upper wishbone and tighten it up but I couldn't really get it in. It is only about 3mm from being flush. These superpro ones are made in the same factory as the whiteline, it is only the colour that is different - so they should be the same.. Also, I had to hammer in the tube quite hard to get it in. I also don't see how you could actually adjust these. The tube is so tight in there I dont think it will spin inside there when you loosen the lock nut and try and rotate the bolt to rotate tube. I put quite a bit of grease in there but still it's very tight. Are you meant to bottom out the long bolt when adjusting so that it stops the bolt turning and rotates the tube instead? Even then I don't see how it can work. Cheers

Thanks SK. Could you do it with a hand chisel you think? Did the come out complete or do they split up a bit. I.e. you definatlely butcher the old bushes right? Did you install the new ones yourself? No press required?

Yeah I can borrow flow meters etc and should be able to get my hands on an air compressor.. I'll record it all. The bloke thats selling it reckons it is a genuine Nissan item. I haven't seen them before. Maybe Nissan made a very limited run of them..

Well the ARC type are 110mm thick. This is 130mm (2 x 65mm) . The air flows through the fins from frotn to back - shouldn't be a real issue. It won't be quite as good in cooling as a taller skinnier cooler but it should flow ok. Might connect up a water spray for hot days... Way I see it if it can handle 220rwkw I'm laughing. Benfits: 1. easier to fit 2. looks stock 3. wont lose response like with a FMIC 3. good for insurance etc. downside: 1.not as good cooling

Just bought this. Hope to get about 220rwkw out of it with GCG turbo.. I'm going to flow test it first on the bench and compare it to a stock R33 and stock R34.. Hopefully it goes ok.