benl1981

Thanks Gary - appreciate it.

If anyone else wants them please let me know I will be ordering today or tomorrow.. Chris - PM for u

How about on the Front SK? Are the outer bushes (the ones you replace for camber adjustment) in the A arm itself or the actual hub side? Thanks

Hey Chris! I can get Superpro ones for about $155 inc GST. I'm going to order probably Wed or Thurs. Let me know if you want me to grab a set. I think they are pretty similar to whiteline ecept they are blue. Whiteline are $180.

I might end up going one of these. Does anyone know if I still need to trim the bar much? I might just have to weld up a few short pipes to reach the stock pipe locations..

Thanks for the ideas fellas. I believe the Rb25 AFM is good up to about 240rwkw...from what I've been reading so I don't plan to replace that So you think the injectors may handle around 220-230 rwkw..what duty cycle should I expect?

This is an old thread but do the GTR pumps seem reliable? It seems like a lot of people areusing them I am thinking of fitting one to my R33gtst.

Ok. Currently have: PFC + 10psi + R34SMIC + 3" turbo back exhaust (not split dump) This with a tune gave me 172rwkw with a nice smooth power delivery. (dyno is meant to be conservative also) I have sourced a GCG high flow turbo. I'm thinking that 220-230rwkw will be adequate for me. I'm wanting to hold a fairly tight budget. I have a nissan patrol clutch - hopefully that will hold up. So extra mods to reach the 220-230rwkw?? 1. FMIC - Hopefully the same sided entry type, to allow easy fitting ???2. Injectors?? - I think the stockies will be at around 90% duty cycle at this power level?? - from peoples experience would this be ok? I know you can get a rising rate fuel reg but think this may be a pain to play with..I guess S15 injectors are an alternative ?? 3. Fuel pump - my stock one showed no signs of fading out up high in the rev range. can 230rwkw be had out of the standard pump? Is a 2nd hand R33/34 GTR pump a direct fit and much better? Will I need around 15psi to get this power level? I would like to avoid adjustable cam gears and replacing the exhaust. Would a split dump really be required. I have a 3" bell mouth type.. Thanks for your help. I assume 220-230rwkw would be a fair improvement - without the worry of the turbo wheel spinning off..

Has anyone got pictures of the front whiteline camber kit fitted to the original wishbones.. Thanks

Thanks Dezz. If you get a chance sometime can you have a look at where your upper wishbone attaches the the chassis and see which one/or both has the new adjustable bush added to it. Cheers

hey Dezz. DO you have any pics or can you explain how the camber kit works. I'm just wondering if you need 1 or 2 kits, and if 1 kit where you actually install the new bushes.. Cheers

Hey there Chris! Might do that..but there only $170 through autobarn justin - I saw that pdf but it looks a slightly different setup.

so does anyone have the instructions or able to tell me how you fit just the one kit? Thanks

Thanks justin. I'm not sure if I need 1 kit or 2. Do you only use one in the inner side if your alignment isn't that bad? (i.e. only need 1 pack) Cheers. I'm wondering if you just put it on one of the 2 points where it meets the chassis (in where one of the wishbone bushed was). This would change camber and toe at the same time.. so then you just get it aligned and they adjust tie rod aswell to make sure the toe is right?? Any comments appreciated Anybody got the fitting instructions? Its not on the web..

Are there any cheaper alternatives compared to whiteline. I see they are around $300.. Just need something to reduce the neg camber by about 0.5 deg... Cheers

Anybody used these with success? Would save some hassle. Cheers http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-1Side-Interco...8QQcmdZViewItem

Think about it.. It's a non turbo 2.5 engine. Why would you bother with fully synthetic oil? And you can go too thin. If you use for example 10W 30 it might be good for climates that dont get too hot or very modern engines but the 30 rating is a bit too thin for australian summers and older engines. The recommendations often change depending on climate. The condition of the engine is also a big factor. It's not that hard to understand. If you notice the oils for older engines are thicker e.g. the shell one is 25W60. I'm not saying to go that thick but don't go for 0w30 or something.. Your choice

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Let me know soon otherwise I will get a refund... Usually these go for over $150..

Not wanting to take away from Jerry but if anyone needs one ASAP then please PM me as I bought one for a friend but he didn't end up needing it. Still in box, not been used