benl1981

pm for details. Pickup can be arranged a few locations around sydney..

Bought for a friend but found out the alternator was to blame. It is actually cream in colour and in it's box. I have one in my car and works great. Equivalent to about a 500ccA battery and fits well in the boot. Slight adjustment to connections required. Just need to put eyelets on the end or chop the existing ones and reuse the bolt holes. $125. Pickup Sydney only. Very similar to Odyssey that are about $350+ These are what you should have if you have the battery in the boot. Otherwise you need a semi sealed with a hose venting out the bottom. Cheers

don't bother with fully synthetic. Get a castrol magnatec, Mobil Synth S (around 15W40 or 10W40..) Don't go too thin..

If your going to bother doing the job inspect the bearings...actually just buy them (under $80) and get the mechanic to change them. Also check the water pump for excessive play and if it feels at all notchy then replace it. If you don't do these you could fork out again for the same labour cost.

Nothing there sounds that bad but 28k is a lot of money!! Just be patient. I have an R33 4 door manual and at the time nobody wanted a 4 door. 28k could buy you a decent new car. I know people who got R34 coupes manual in good nick for under 25k. 4 door should be about the same.

Old post I know - but do you have to trim much of the bar to fit a GTR intercooler to a R33 GTST Cheers

My car was under a used car warranty ..I think they sourced one from a local wrecker, but just jap or others have them aswell. I've seen them on the forum going for about $150. You have to be careful as the coupling in the middle or the uni joints could be worn so check it out well. It does sound like the same problem but I guess yors could be a bent driveshaft coming out of the diff or something completely different. THat's why it might be better to pay a workshop $50-100 to inspect it. Otherwise jack the car up securely in many points and have a good look at the tailshaft and see if you can rotate by hand. You should be able to see if it has taken a hit...

Well I had the shudder type vibration feel at 60km/h which minimised as I got over 80.. Turned out being a bent tailshaft. The middle muffler was visibly dented on the bottom so I think the muffler has taken a big hit and hit into the tailshaft. Yours may be a different problem. I thought it was wheel bearing - replaced one that was a little noisy but made no difference. The guys at the workshop put it on the dyno then had a look underneath I think. Maybe if you put it on a hoist and got someone to take it up to 70km/h with the wheels off the ground you may see. Get a workshop to diagnose it - don't do anything dangerous. Saw a bloke in hospital that has been in a bed for 15 years as a car fell on him and crippled him! Stand around and watch the workshop guys so you dont get ripped off. 2nd hand tailshafts are around $200-250 I think.

Check here - only about $80 for the 2 bearings. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=idler++bearing

Hey Chris! You will not get the benefit of the electronic type!! Save your money. The $20 one works fine for up to about 12psi or more. Or even a small orifice piece that you replace your solenoid with will give you steady 10psi (If the right size bypass hole). It's bypasses enough air to maintain 10psi.. Only when you upgrade the turbo consider a more elaborate boost controller.

Please take that FPR and atmo venting BOV off.. and leave them off There is no way on a stock ecu that you want to increase the Fuel Pressure unless something else is not functioning properly(e.g. fuel pump). Everyone knows they run rich when on boost and also can go into rich and retard mode. Addiing more fuel rail pressure means this is even more pronounced...

See if you can borrow a PFC and see if that makes it feel better (maybe through it on the dyno) You shouldn't need a Nismo FPR - that is just adding another variable.. you would usually use this to richen things up by adding extra fuel pressure (I..e when nearly maxing out injectors) You are most likely hitting R&R..but the curve is very wobbly.

Are you selling another one? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=143650&hl=

Yeah gas filled. I just thought people on here may have foud a place to either source them or get them recod. They are quite unique as mwhore is saying..

Anyone had these regassed? I have a 4 door but I think they may be the same as coupe. Or is there any other cheaper way? Cheers

Go the std nissan belt ~$80 and the 2 bearings you get from bearing industries (complete assemblies ($80-85 for both) All up $165! If you want some cam seals they would probbaly be a couple of dollars..go to an ACL reseller for those.

ACL should do aftermarket ones. They are usually to a pretty high standard I believe. Should only be about $30-40 bucks if they do them

Anybody know about getting the gloss back to old paint? I think on one section I have used too deep a cutting compound and as a result the duco has turned dull. Is there a way to increase the gloss. Does the wax help this - long term...

Interesting thread - good pics. I have a problem where my sunroof can rattle. It looks flush etc but frm the inside when you push up on the sunroof it can move up and own about 4-5mm which I think causes the squeeking. Any ideas on this Terry - you seem to be the sunroof specialist

Ok - all done. Cleaned it up..but I got a hint of the hunting again today. maybe part of it is faulty? Anybody else found this. It will be ok for a few days then for a bout 30 seconds the idle will fall and rise...the injector duty cycle stays the same (I have PFC).. Sounds very much like it is the AAV and that is why I cleaned it.

I've just got to the stage where I have pulled it out ready for cleaning. Jeez it's fiddly!! I'm looking in your pics as when I pulled the last hose off I think I knocked some bit of plastic or something down around and settled in the many cavities beside the engine. Can't see it, I hope I remember to jack the car after all this and see if I can see it from the bottom. Wierd thing is I can't see any clips or other bits I am missing (compared with your photos) I guess that's what I get for doing things at night Hope it fixes the occassional hunting. My car will be fine for a month or so - then a hot day or add the A/C and you'll get rev hunting for 5 minutes or so.. quite random..

Did you ask for a receipt?

Thanks Busy2k - thats the kind of info I was chasing. So its not that significant. i.e. If the tune is safe with normal 98 (i.e. 11.8:1) then it should still be safe running boost98 (E10) it sounds like. I think the ethanol lowers the EGTs slightly anyway?

So how much would the AFR move on an R33gtst making about 170-180rwkw?

Anybody done this back to back testing. E.g. Shell 98 AFR 12:1, then run shell extreme (E5) and checked how much the AFR had moved? Anybody done this with E10? Is the AFR change enough to warrant a retune? Or most of the time ok if tune was to 11.8:1 AFR with optimax? Thanks