benl1981

famous were good

Ive got one that I thought was in the glove box. Took the glove box off - still there!! Must be back there deeper Anyone tracked this one down? On a side note I had another one that was a squeeking noise. Had a look at my headlights and each was missing a nut. When you pushed on them you could hear the squeek. The nuts must have loosened over time ??

Good saving Dan. Just of note: I didn't bother with the bolts and idlers after trying to order through Nissan (they required chassis no. etc). Spoke to their mechanics and parts people - they said they never bother replacing if they look in good condition. You can see if the thread looks bad. Unless they come loose then they shouldn't be subject to load anywhere near there tensile or endurance limit.

Complete with pulleys!! No pressing required

Idler ~$48 Tensioner ~$28 Genuine NSK... Call bearing industries. click that lkink above with all the info

this will save you some money. Get them sent from Syd or find someone with a similar price in Ads There is an idler and a tensioner (2 seperate things) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=tensioner

More likely the ECU pulling back timing and adding fuel. I doubt the manual excu will help. Get a PFC or SAFC.

Is this a ball bearing turbo for $1200??

Kinks is right - no good paying heaps for a car that you are frightened you will damage all the time. jap cars are generally pretty good and withstand a lot of abuse. But yeah sht happens. Best thing with these you can get 2nd hand parts cheap.

Oil changes should be at about 5-6k kms. 7-8k kms if you doing highway stuff. Provided you arent running lean or getting predetonation your engine should last till around 250-300 k kms or more. If the timing belt snaps its goneski, same with if an idler bearing etc seizes. Unforseen things can happen but unlikely. Helps if you can service your own car or know a good mechanic. Good idea to throw it on the dyno for a power run (about $50) and check the 02 sensor is taking care of the closed loop (AFR 14.7) Dont worry so much. Mine has 120k on it and not a sign of probs. My old corolla which I revved over 7k each day was sitting on 230k kms without any trouble at all

Strut bar sold. Works well Ron - thanks. bump for you

you can go bilsteins for about 250 a corner. See group buy.. or kybs I used. $100 each for the rears, $120 each for fronts. They seem pretty good.

Hey Micky. Are you in Sydney? Thats a cheap price! Seems like famous are good. Got a 1150 quote from them

Disadvantages: Maybe some parts are harder to get if you hit a panel etc. Still a lot coming in though and just jap etc import a lot of sedan gear. Maybe 20kg heavier (slight performance disadvantage but not major) Not as good looking? I don't mind them though Advantages: Doesn't attract as much attention Easier for rear passengers and driver (dont have to get in and out to let people in) Place to throw your crap if dont want to open the boot Boot slightly bigger (not much!) Not sure about resale - could either be adv or disadv. You may get the 4 door cheaper to start with!

Looking at getting cheap insurance on my 4 door R33 gtst. Nobody is giving it cheaper because it is 4 door. Anybody know a company that thinks it would be less of a risk being 4 door and lowe the premium Thanks So far 25 yo Full NCB lock up garage good sydney suburb $1440 shannons Tried young and cool - they are $1195 - thats the best Ive got though ..and there is more excess on that..

Master - your age and car is similar to me..my shannons quote is $1440 for a good suburb in Sydney.!! WHat a rort.. do the premiums go up much if you mention ECU

Paid $130 at autobarn. 9 inch electric fan - can be reversed polarity to change flow direction. Never used. Bought for another application but does not suit. Will try and return otherwise sell here for $110. Sydney pick up Let me know tonight as I will return it tomorrow. Thanks Ben Check out the website. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=11 Bought 3 days ago - have receipt.

Just imagine a chain coming off at 70,000rpm. The bearings in the turbo would have to be bigger to take the extra load etc. nice try..

I get about 10-13L/100kms round town in my manaul R33. 13 is giving it a lot. Mine has aftermarket computer 10psi and 172rwkw

Nice work Dale. Sounds like a good package. If I was to upgrade I would think about this. Are you sticking with the Rb25 AFM and standard injectors? Have you got a PFC? How much did the turbo sey you back if you don't mind me asking? Thanks Is this what you got? http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod414.htm

Yeah I have a bit wrapped in magazines also. Re. the 0-100 times. Thats why rexys do so well. After driving a few of them they dont feel nearly as quick as the figures. Roll on acceleration the R33 and almost a commodore would probably beat them. You have to dial in 6k rpm and dump the clutch to go well.

Wheelbase is the same but the boot is slightly longer. Still fairly small though. Series 2 are a bit better as the battery moved to the front and gave a bit more room Mine has a coupe tailshaft in it. I believe the weight difference was around the 20-30kg mark.

If you figure out the suroof one then please let me know. If I have the shutter open (but not the roof) there is a ratle and you can move the bracket upa nd down a bit. Cheers

thanks mate - Yeah I think they came to that conclusion Better drivers car or something.. Good choice hey.. 7 sec was bit slow. Although stock I reckon mine would have probably been close to that..

Its good to have a nother gauge but not really needed. In my R33 I occassionally use an old pressure gauge I have that is fairly accurate to check the boost and see where it sits on the factory gauge. I dont leave this connected and just have a glance at the stock gauge to see eveything is ok. Stock gauges (iff same as R33) are a pressure transducer that sends a 0-4.5v (I think) signal to the dash. I took a multimeter to it once but can't remmber the vs at atmospheric pressure (May have been 1.25 or 2.25v) So it would be a 2bar MAP sensor... 0-1bar is vacuum 1-2 bar boost - due to turbo +1 on the gauge would be about 14psi-15psi