benl1981

botters - youre problem may be due to running too muchboost or airflow that is causing the ecu to richen up and retard timing..

Somebody mentioned an E/creek one in a couple of months. Will you need a CAMS licence for that. I have a Fire extinguisher mounted under the back seat (in the cabin easily able to be grabbed)..is there a ruling you need it in the front..

Just wondering who has fittted these.? - How long do they take to fit? I know it should be in the drivetrain section. There is no reason why you would need wheel alignment after is there? Would machined up Nylon ones last long? They loook pretty simple things. Thanks

I think it's been shown by reputable people that the flow rates from the N1 pump aren't optimal for street use. I think Nissan even sell one for about $130 trade that has the elongated hole.. Sometimes Nissan don't really know what's going on though

Get a price on the real item. If it is <$100 more than the one with the incorrect bolt hole then why bother talking about it. There is more of a chance of it leaking with the bolt missing. Sure, it may be ok. But is it really worth the risk?

And is the warranty valid for labour? What will they say if you installed it yourself and it isn't the intended part for the job? A repco Rb30 one will be fine provided it goes on an Rb30 bottom end!! Point is why would you try and save $70-$80 getting one that misses out on one bolt and has the posiblity of leaking. I.e a good 4 hrs down the drain and then you have to buy the correct piece anyway. The Rb30 unit is not recommended for the Rb25. I went through the same process. I know my series 1 has a one bolt hole that doesn't line up which I think most people have found.

I wouldnt risk it. If it leaks you have to strip it all down again. Original is only about $130-$150 from Nissan I believe. My pump felt fine so I didn't replace it. Thought there was more chance of a new one going dodgy or getting something wrong on the install. If there was any play or sign of weeping I would have replaced it. Also, if I was paying for labour I probably would - but with the genuine item

5095mV

hmm thats strange - ive seen that value about 3 times

Thanks Paul - yes I read that so mine most liley hitting 16 load point at 5.1v wil l never get to load point 18 (as mine probbaly has the correction in there). Still struggle tosee how the engine can be tuned effectively from 170rwkw if AFM is maxing out.

I just used old auto fluid dexron something that I had lying around for about 10 years. Works ok..

mad082 you have got it the wrong way round. SAFC only works if running rich and you are getting air flow protection. E.g Before SAFC: 5 volts on the AFM triggers Air flow protection and is giving 9:1 air flow ratio (rich) After SAFC: With the SAFC you want to lean out the fuel mixture so you intercept the AFM signal and change the 5v reading to 4.8v. This will fool the ECU that there is less load there - hence less fuel will be delivered and it may not trigger air flow protection. I.e. youmay now get 12:1 AFR and no air flow protection Also it has to do with how quickly the rise in Air flow occurs ...e.g how quickly you go from say 3v to 5v - this may trigger Air flow protection P.s. all values made up. But AFM reads 0-5v 0v = no air flow 5.1v = A lot of airflow (enough to make 170rwkw+)

Hey guys - thanks for the replys Car is an R33 Std turbs 3" full exhaust R34 SMIC 10psi high flow panel PFC ver 2.32a I think Dyno tuned to 172rwkw AFR leaned out from about 9.x:1 to 11.8:1 Hey Cubes.. how can 220rwkw + send it to load point 17 or 18?? If you are already maxing out the AFM at load point 16 how would it know to go to 17? Chrissso - I found an article in HPI that sort of explained a similar reasoning to the one you point out. The air flow meter was maxing out yet the AFR and ignition timing was ok at 220rwkw..WIth fuel and igniton changing only due to the rpm increase because it no longer had resolution on the AFM. Does this mean that from 180rwkw to 220rwkw you can not tune it very well. I mean if I wackedon a slightly bigger turbo would you wack in more fuel at load point 16 to adjust for the extra airflow? Not really sure how it can control it that well. I find it odd mine maxed out at only 172rwkw. Maybe mine reads a little higher or I was dynod on a lowish reading dyno ...

Yep I thought it was coils as well. PFC fixed my probs

Thanks Paul. I think before the tune or anything it would only got to 15 or 16 on the load axis though!... Cheers

Just been playing round with the PFC etc. I have stock turbo and just over 170rwkw tuned with 10psi. Lately I have been maxing out the AFM a lot. About 5500rpm I get the 1 check engine flash and look down and AFM: 5095mV InJ: ~76% I have had that 5095 figure about 3 times. So I wonder if this is the absolute max it can read??!! Maybe its the cold weather. But anyway I ran some 95 octane the time before last fill and most recently filled up with 98 octane. Still getting a bit of knock. I dialled out 5 deg timing and was finding full throttle from about 3500rpm onwards I was seeing 17 deg timing most of the way up..so normally that would be 22deg. Seem like normal to you? Looking at other PFC maps looks about right I guess.. Also the Powerfc when you look on the map trace etc it only has I think 15 or 16 load points on the vetical axis but in the tuning maps there is 20. Can you not use the last 4 or something? Thanks

Remember that on the dyno results can vaty by atleast 30rwkw.. You would be lucky to get above 150rwkw (no matter what mods) on a true dyno with stock ecu. They are programmed to protect the engine by richening up and retarding timing. If you have a lazy fuel pump that causes the car to run slightly lean this may give you a few more kws but is also dangerous. On a stock computer you have the air flow protection which can make the power delivery less than ideal. A powerfc (ideal) or SAFC style device is most likely needed. Very rare to see a stock ecu car with mods with a smooth power delivery - usually has dips in power curve etc. Doesn't matter on the condition of your motor - it is all in the programming.

370 should be ok. Little on the low side. I think the one I replaced was 270cca..so I think you have bigger than the stock one.. If youre not runing a big system I reckon it should be ok for a couple of years or so. Just dont leave your lights on or parkers for too long with the engine off.

Battery has had its day most likely. Mine usually sticks on 13.8v but 14.5v is within limits. I.e. your alternator is ok

I had a very rough idle after a PFC tune that leaned eveything out. By increasing the correction (adding more fuel) at low coolant temps I have smoothed the idle out. Be careful - you may already be too lean at cold start. Could be fuel pump, clogged injectors etc. If you get a PFC you can fiddle with things to see what works..but the standard maps should be fine - you either have a sensor or part that isn't doing its job..

It was Dave at Insight Motorsport

JD - yeah it feels pretty good on the street. It's hard to compare figures from differnt dynos, but I gained about 22rwkw from just the tune. I don't think I can justify spending anymore on it to make it go faster when its a daily driven car returning 11L/100km . Maybe if the turbo goes then I wack on a high flow etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0psi++PFC++rich Mods 10psi std turbo r34 cooler std fuel pump/regulator

I had fuel mixtures less than 10:1 aftter 4200rpm

Mines been like it for a year and a half. Still works - no probs.