benl1981

Right. I'll go and alk to him when I get a chance. It is a fairly crude way of measuring knock - little microphones that try to seperate other noise and determine what is knock, I think a lot of people have found knock over 80s to be unaudible, depending on the engine. Some engines have a lot of internal noise.

You sure? He reckons you can. Ill have to take it back and see what he finds. I got it tuned back in January but haven't had a chance to organise a time with him as he is very hard to get to.

Ive had mine tuned by a reputable tuner (Dyno dave..recommended by SK) and found I get spikes. I can not hear the knock and spoke to the tuner and he believes it is mechanical noise that isn't picked up as much if you richen the mixture - but then you get poor response and power. Not always the case but I hink it isin mine. I'm taking it back for him to check, but he says he may turn down the sensitivity on the knock sensor - apparently you can do that via the FC datalogit software.

Mike - back off the boost till you get a PFC or SAFC. You might lose a tad top end but power delivery will be smoother and more consistent and you will use less fuel. The computer is going into rich and retard mode due to the extra airflow

JD - I am surprised to see your AFR to be so nice. From my experience usually R33s run a lot richer than this. I'm wondering whether your fuel pump is getting lazy. If you go and increase the boost anymore you will see if this is a problem. I.e. Don't raise boost too much without slapping it on the dyno to check your AFRs The AFRs are pretty much spot what you would tune them to. Usually the stock ECU doesn't do this..

Similar story to Randy here. I connected up a standard air pressure gauge that is accurate (old school mechanial), I used this to set 10psi. Drove round for a while to see it was consistent, then connected up the stock gauge and noted where this was sitting at full boost. I left the hose coming through the firewall but disconnected at the engine bay so can always hook in later. So I just use the stock gauge, which is fine although not as obvious as an aftermarket one. I connect up the calibrating gauge every 3 months or so to check boost level is the same but even that is a bit pedantic. I just want to keep my car as stock looking as possible..

1 bar = 14.7 psi. A lot of stock cars don't pull any more than 140 rwkw which is close to your mark. Often adding mods doesn't increases power. The stock Ecu is really weak, as soon as you start adding more boost and flowing air you can actually lose power. Depending on the car some take 9psi -10psi ok but others don't gain much and the stock ecu retards the timing and richens the fuel mixture. 1. You should have a dyno plot of the AFR (air fuel ratio) - I bet it is rich. 2. Plus yor boost trails off a lot. Take off the ebc and see if the boost holds (should be 5psi) - If you connect up the old standard solenoid and leavie it wired open you should get 7-8psi that only drops maybe 1 psi. If this doesn't then maybe your actuator is playing up or your turbo needs a look at. Either way don't believe what people get on dynos..there can be a 30-40rwkw difference I think. SOme people claim 180rwkw on near stock cars

Was the check engine going nuts and you just ploughed on...??

Shit that looks bad!! WHat happened..did you have a massive boost spike? Was your PFC tune a bit too severe..? What sort of powerwere you running? Unlucky Are all the valves mince meat?

As randy says: Bearing Industries in Seven Hills.. About 80 for the 2

I sourced them for $99 each for rears $122 each for fronts They were KYBs. Fitted myself so no labour. I bought some universal steering rack boots to replac the dust boots which were about $50 for 4. Have to get a wheel alignment soon too. If you want better Sydneykid does biltsteins in the group buy. Rears you have to remove the trim, fronts are ok. Budget on about 4.5 hours labour - Probably $400. I'd say $900 all up.

Probably the timing belt was changed in Jap by a bad DIYer or something. Turn the engine by hand to ensure no valve to piston contact.

15W is the cold viscosity which isn't hugely different to 10W - the difference in wear will be minimal

If belt was done at 100k you dont need that...but that said if came into aus with 120k or something on it I would probably do the belt as you never know the true kms... You should do: Engine oil + filter Check condition of coolant (may need to remove and flush) Has the gearbox oil and diff oil been changed before? It all depends what has been done before...

I'm trying to find Sks settings for a standard R33..GTST I'm going to get a wheel alignment soonish so was hoping to get all the settings to give them for 95% street used car running stock gear.. I looked through the group buy thread but couldnt see them listed in a clear cut manner. Should there be a FAQ or tutorial. ie. Front Toe Caster Camber Rear Toe Camber + any other settigns needed?? Thanks

Yeah - Im thinking of removing my HICAS. Dont know if many shops would know the procedure and Im overdue for a wheel alignment so Im going to turf it. Dont want to pay for the wheel alignment twice...

Nice tutorial. I should put together one for the front bearing replacement. Agree with you on paying to get a diagnosis if unsure. It was actually my tailshaft that was bent causing vibration NOT the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing wasn't perfect but didn't turn out being too bad. It's a fair bit of work and wouldn't call it fun. Similar to you I had a friend with a press (didn't end up using it, used hammer and puller instead)..fair bit of work!

Semi synthetic will do for most uses. Save your money and change it every 5-6000km

Check the tension on the belts. I had a screeching that was the alternator beltthat didn't have enough tension on it..

Just wondering if you can share the driving with one other. ? You dont need a CAMS licence do ou? Fire extinguisher mounted? Pretty chep isn't it? Under $100 a day? Cheers

check the noise isnt the timing belt or tensioner bearings..that can be very severe!!

Powerfc should improve fuel consumption R33TOM..Most of the time the stock ECU runs very rich. Leaning out AFR is a benefit of the powerfc..A good tune on Powerfc even with lots of mods will = not much more than 12L/100km in most driving I would think. If you start boosting then the big hp boys will be seeing high fuel usage. Some people say the bigger the tubo the better fuel consumption in conteolled driving as it doesnt come onto boost so easy..

Thanks mate. That would be great: My email address is [email protected] I'm not going to be making up anymore than 1 so wont threaten your trade If you give me some dimensions - I can draft it up in solidworks or proe and give them back to you.. 1. I need the length of the main bar and diameter.. 2. Thread size and pitch to go inside small bar inserts at ends.. 3. The 2 brackets/plate plate... that attach to chassis, I guess these need to be milled.. with around 20mm Diameter..40mm long?? Just guessing. Not sure of the size. 4. Location of the brackets along bar... Really would have like to get a hold of a dead one

Gee..the poor rb25, or poor Justin's wallet - what happened to your timing to blow up the motor??..were you tweaking it or just running the as tuned maps. I get a bit of check engine flash but the tuner is convinced it is just mechanical noise as he pulled out about 10 deg of timing at certain spots.. Bit worried because it costs more than $2 to get them back up again, right?!! I think youd notice coil packs eitheron boostor at idle if they were the culprit.. Have you had a wheel alignement? When you back off does the cars low quite quick (indicating too much toe in for example)? Could possibly be a leaky injector but you would think that would be noticeable with black smoke on startup or missing?

No you don't need octane booster. 98 octane should be fine for it. Oil changes: 5,000kms or 6 months whichever comes first. If you doing highway could stretch it to 10,000km. Use a semi synthetic at least..e.g castrol maganatec or shell helix.. If you really want to then go some full syntheticbut a bit pricey. Gerabox/Diff oil: 100k kms..If your car came in from japan or unknown history then change them. Coolant: Every 2 -3 years. Use Nulon or castrol