benl1981

Seems like youve covered all bases. On the dyno when in closed loop were the AFRs at 14.7 or very close to that? Did you blow your motor? I tought you just got your PFC tuned a few months back? At around 60km/h I think my inj duty is at about 4% in 4th gear..probably about 5% at 70km/h so can't see a problem with those figures. Strange.. Even on the base map of PFC (Usually very rich) I could still easily get 400km to the tank going in some traffic etc (i.e. about 11-13L/100km) which seems to be a fair bi better than yours.. Hope you find the culprit

Stay there and watch or get a trustworthy mechanic (sometimes not easy)

Damn!!! Thanks anyway Liz I don't care if the motor is cactus or what.. Thought somebody might have one. Not really something you would mount on your mantlepiece I wouldnt think..

Somebody must have one of these in there garage gathering dust and tripping over it..or using it to fit thieves.

Just wondered if someone had one lying around. I'm going to make up a replacement bar and just needed an old one as template for the new. Thanks a lot.

A lot of the jap import cars sit for >3 months without being touched.. import enginescan sit for up to a couple of years..with them you should squirt a small amount of oil through the spark splugs I believe and rotate crank..

There's no way youre on that power unless you have some aftermarket comp you dont know about. The mesh being pulled out of the front is a bit silly. It's there to stop stray object going through AFM if they get through the filter or bits of the filter disintegrate. Glad it worked out but sounds like he is a magician or something rather than a tuner hehehe

Coopers are good. I have compared these to ryco and they are just as good. If you change every 5-6000km just use castrol maganatec or something similar. May be if you go on the track might be worth going full synthetic.

Bottom line is that car has been wound back - probably has 160k on it if going by timing belt sticker..If you still like the car use this as bargaining tool...most of the r33s are wound back anyway. ABS - you can see the module on the passenger side of firewall if it has it. Check if it has an airbag - I think most series2 do. If it has an aftermarket wheel this is illegal.

They pay dudes in jap to do it. It's called a hair cut. Aussies dont like high km on cars - most car yards buying cars want them only if under 100km so get kms knocked off them before they come here.. The japs are good at winding back the kays..you pay them about $50..

Set of bearings is $76 from Bearing Industries in Seven Hills - that was cheapest I could find. Wasn't worth not replacing them for that. Though they would usually get noisy and loose rather than sieze..

Series 1 and 2 will have about the same rwkw. They both have same engine management and engines. Same turbo as well (some may have nylon compressor wheel for quicker spool but no difference in size)..only difference is the coils, series 2 have inbuilt ignitors. All depends on condition of engine..

If hicas light on I think it means it is disabled. So maybe you hit a pothole or something else or check your suspension joints

Well 140rwkw is a 25% loss through drivetrain so I wouldn't expect any better than that. All depends on the dyno but 135rwkw on a REALISTIC dyno is about the figure. In a motor mag the astra turbo dynod at 100wkw when it has 147kw, sportivo about 88kw (flywheel 141kw). I would expect you would lose around 50kw or more...

If you have stock turbo this is all you need!! Intercooler $550 or go R34 SMIC for under $200 (if plan for bigger things later go the FMIC) 3" Dump/front $250 or pay extra to go split high flow cat $180 (BATMBL Catco 3") Boost controller $30 (from forums) Stock BOV $30 (sell your aftermarket one for $) Stock Airbox & Snorkel $50 High flow panel (pipercross) $60 Sell your POD Raise boost to 10-11psi. Buy PFC $1000 Tune $300-$400 (get the tuner to do one power run on base map to see that is running rich, or check fuel rail pressure to ascertain condition of stock pump, before he gets down the track of tuning) Stock fuel pump should be ok! You will net about 180+rwkw of very nice responsive power without drawing attention to yourself. All up about $2-2.5k

depends what dyno but I reckon more like 130-135rwkw. Remember 187 or 184 flywheel kw. Budget on 25-30% loss through drivetrain.. The stock comp is crap if you raise boost or add intercooler. Factor in Powerfc or at a minimum an AFM bender (SAFC) and you will get the gain from the mods..otherwise don't bother with any more than a couple of psi boost increase and exhaust. At 9-10psi you are at the border of rich and retard so may be dont even bother..

ross80 you stirrer!! hehehe VN wasnt quite on my shopping list... my skyline looks a bit like a camry - its a 4 door r33...stock mags etc. got to take it down the strip though and see what it pulls. Got a 172rwkw on a conservative dyno..hoping for 13s of some sought. Or take it to the track to enjoy. Licence is too valuable.. You think pink do you>>??

They have a lot of torque but run out of puff about 5000rpm

LNEMUP ..hhahahah what a great saying..

Dont do the engine flush!! and it may be extravagent using the high end motul oil. I just use castrol magantec and change it every 4000-6000km. Used it for around 20k km now and doesnt use any oil. At almost 110k km now. Works well. Plenty of other things to blow your money on besides oil that you should change regularly anyway.

Job done. Thanks all. Have to take it for a drive in the morning to see the differerence. The old shocks once fully compressed take about 10-15 seconds or more to fully extend. The new ones are about 3 seconds I think.. Does this seem about right??

one more to do - fingers crossed. Do i need to prime the shocks?

Do shocks need priming before assembly or does that occur when you drive down the road... ? Almost done..just trying to figure out how to attach the new dust boots...

I found it to be ok - got one off..its all good so far. cheers

The bottom is free now - I can twist it, however the top seems to still be under a bit of tension. I guess cause I didn't grasp it close enough to the top. Will this give a bit of impact as I loosen off the remainder of the top bolt..or make it harder to put the compressed spring on the new shock?? http://img93.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00334iy.jpg