benl1981

Well some people say light switch and it means there's nothing then all of a sudden boost. This can mean lots of lag. So you might have nothing till 4000rpm but then it comes on with a solid hit..

Well I'm also considering the cheaper option...It's only if my motor bombs out.. If I have a 3L bottom end with a freshen up there it is cheaper than an imported RB25 engine. Anyone have any comments on my questions above? Maybe I should make a new post or something..

This talk of balancing etc.. I hear that some guys here are using old 270 000km bottom ends..doesn't sound like they care too much about balancing. For a street car looking at 240-260rwkw - would you just buy a RB30 bottom end - if the pistons look ok just put new rings on and new big end bearings? Rehone it.. Would you really need to balance? Only plan to rev it to 6500rpm Just going to be putting a lot of kays up on the car for new job so thinking of building a spare bottom end for if and when it needs a freshen up.. Also what turbo - GCG standard highflow...Would this not choke it up high..? Sorry to deviate a bit.

So not much lag? Or a lot - light switch means laggy doesn't it

Will some people already have the powerfc. I'm currently getting around 175rwkw and my injectors are only at 70%. So I reckon I could get about 210rwkw without even needing a fuel pump upgrade. To get to about 240rwkw I reckon I may be able to get away with a new pump and FPR. Clutch is a nissan patrol one that feels pretty strong at the moment. I think 220-230rwkw is down the track eventually what I'd like to safely have. Maybe wouldn't need a new AFM for this. Even 170-180rwkw makes a pretty fast street car..

Interested to know more about these turbos - they are about 1/2 the price of the GCG ones!!

Gee they look ok. I guess you have to get new oil and water lines and the dump pipe section. Not bad prices there though. Hopefully this will bring the prices of other turbos down - such as GCG turbos.. I would buy one of those if they were only a grand.

Hey Sk - is that standard turbo or bigger?

The old paper speakers will be more bassy because they are a lower rated speaker and you have jack all power behind them. The newer speakers you bought require more power to give the same volume. An amp will fix this and you will be able to give them the rms they require to make bass. I had a 6" pair of speakers from my old mazda (stockers) that I transported to another car because they were so efficient. They were only rated at I think 10 or 15w but sounded great when mounted well and behind a reasonable head unit. Get a cheapish amp and see how you go. With an amp you can adjust the gain. At medium level on your head unit you may be abl;e to dish out 30w rms or more dependingon where you set the gain, where your head unit would only give out say 5w rms

See if you can borrow a mates PFC. SOunds like you are getting R&R (Rich and retard) due to increased ariflow. My car did this, looked into coils etc. As soon as PFC went in it ran the 10-11psi fine.

Thanks guys. SK - If you could do that that would be great! JC Marshall - did you keep the HICAS computer etc in the boot?

Well if you haven't had a tune yet then this is probably not true: The PFC has no idea of your fuel pump condition as it is just going off the standard maps. I think running 10psi I got close to 90%injector duty cycle. After a tune this was reduced to 69% and making a lot more power. You will need to see on the dyno how your AFRs are.

Right. So on the R33 the best you can hope for is about 5kg?

Justin - sent you Pm. Just been cleaning up and remembered about this. Sorry it's been a while you might have got one..

Thanks Greg. 4kg isn't muh though. I might make one up if I can be bothered...

They will eventually bed in with normal driving anyway. Just do a few moderate stabs. Be aware braking isn't as good for 1000kms or thereabouts.

Thanks Greg - you only lose 2kg???? Somebody was saying 20kg?? How much does the standard bar + electric motor weigh. Maybe it isn't worth doing for weight saving. Maybe for handling though.. I'm going to get a wheel alignment soon but need to replace front shocksfirst and thinking about the lock bar..

Yeah - I don't want an electric lock kit. I was just going to replace the rack with a bar. I think the R33 is electric unlike R32 that has hydarulkic line running to it..

I am contemplating removing the HICAS in my R33. Can you remove the ECU? I heard someone lost front power assist by doing this? How much weight can you save if you use a mild steel replacement weight about 2kg? Cheers

bump

Anybody want to donate there rear R33 hicas rack. I'm just going to be welding a replacement bar up and wanted one to model without pulling mine fully off. Thanks PS Im in sydney

R32 with boost at 12psi wont get close to 200rwkw. An r33 with those mods is around that mark. I fyou run 12psi just get the Powerfc tuned and you wont need injectors etc... Im running 10psi in an r33 and got 172rwkw on conservative dyno. I think probably 150-160rwkw for an r32 at 12psi would be a pretty good result

The powerfc will most likely run rich if you up the boost (depending on fuel pump condition etc). Before PFC tune my R33 was maxing about 86% on the injectors. Now the max I have seen is about 69 or 70%. Optimising the fuel ratios will most likely require less injector duty cycle. I think the R32 AFM maxs aout about 170-180rwkw doesnt it? You probably won't get to this with the standard turbo.

The standard turbo wont flow enough to warrant new AFM or injectors I wouldn't think.

i'd say about $400-$500 in labour - I've heard people on here getting it done cheaper