benl1981

How much weight do you save on an R33 - about 15kg? I might just use mild steel - about 2.5-3mm Wall thickness.

I was thinking of making one of these bars. Anyone know the tapped hole size that the reack end bits go into?

Its about 4700rpm that I'm getting the high knock values. Might take it to the tuner Loaded it up from 3000rpm up a hill in 2nd. Got to about 4600rpm or so and the flash engine came on. Can't hear any pinging but knock level was 106...

If you put the lock bar in are you still stuck with the hicas light on the dash being on all the time? How much weight do you save? About 20kg?

I find If I full throttle second gear on the flat I don't get much knock. But if I load it up going up a hill..hoild it at 3500rpm and hit it, I will get the 3 flashes from the check engine at about 5000rpm. I might talk to the tuner again or get him to look at it. Don't want it to be unsafe.

Thanks Cubes. Yeah I'm pretty happy. You think the AFM voltage is a reasonble indication of power? I'm getting the check engine flash a little in 2nd gear. I have seen knock hit 80. I called the tuner and he reckons that it is mechanical noise. When you lean out the mixtures he reckons that the silly mics pick this up more. He reckons he can richen it up and it will stop the knock readings but also kill power. On the dyno he kept knock below 20. I also asked him if I see it flashing should I back off and he sort of said not really. He is the tuner SK uses so is very good. Bit disheartening when you see the engine light flashing though..

far out - i had to clean up about 2L of oil once - worst thing!!! Thats bad about the filter seal!!!

4.2L when you do filter - otherwise 4L. Don't put 5L in!!!

Whats the street price for a 2530 2nd hand you think? So it must boost the same if not earlier than the stocko?? 12.5 ain't bad!!

Robo - what did you do with your 2530? Did it boost up as fast as the stock turbo?

For that power it's pretty damn good. But yeah these cars are basically a small 6 so you should get better consumption than a ford or holden 6. Gear ratios arent as good for fuel economy though. Need a 6 speed to drop the revs in top... On the highway I would think you would be able to get under 10L/100km. I can get around that but not much better.

I did the fill up reset the trip, then fill up again to get those readings. Thats the only accurate way you can do it. Not everyone is going to run it dry..I ran it till almost E and got 460km - no doubt plenty left - yes I put in close to 49L. You probably will never run it down to less than 5L unles you really push it. 15L/100km is horrid. To be honest though I havent really done much heavy traffic driving - I guess mine would probably go to 12-13L/100km then. They are only a 2.5L engine. If u use boost a lot then expect bad consumption.

That's a very narrow powerband. I would run you in my gtst. You couldn't keep the car in that powerband. You need atleast a 3000-3500rpm window where you have good power.

On light cruise mine are mostly about 4%. My o2 sensor was keeping idle and light load around 14.4AFR. It cycles at about 5 times per second at 2500rpm. That's not bad. As 02sensors get old they get less sensitive and increase reaction time.

Paul I reckon your problem lies somewhere else. The stock ECU and Powerfc should give about the same fuel consumption if you dont hamer it much. You wil be in closed loop most of the time - relying on 02 sensor reading. Are you getting around 14.7AFR at idle and whenever car is in closed loop? I was getting about 400-450km to a tank (about 11-12L/100km) without the powerfc tune. When stuck on the dyno the AFR went into the 9s at full throttle. Since the tune I got about 460km to the tank (10.6L/100km) but I reckon if I stayed off the gas then I don't think there would be any difference in consumption. The timing down low doesn't give you much benefit in fuel economy. I think a wheel alignment might give you more if you have too much toe. You should check your injector duty cycles and air flow voltage at say 60km/h, 70, 80 and 90 in 4th gear (on the flat) and compare them with others on here. Maybe you just sit in bad traffic or have a lead foot!! hehehe

As a comparison - RB25DET power levels at 10psi (tuned powerfc) 3000rpm 100rwkw 4000rpm 116rwkw 4500rpm 134rwkw 5000rpm 153rwkw 5500rpm 164rwkw 6000rpm 170rwkw 6500rpm 172rwkw My stock gtst (10psi) is making more power up to about 6200rpm - that must come on like a light switch!!! Huge turbos?? Must push you back in the seat.

Just to let you know I spoke to the tuner and a few others - apparently you can get a flash of the engine light in 2nd gear, knock sensors can pick up mechanical noise. Mine only flashes once or twice so may not be knock. Mine hasn't done it much now. Fuel economy is 10.65L/100km with some 15km one way trips (not too many traffic lights) and some longer 40km one way drives. Gave it a little stick from time to time but tried not to waste fuel by slowing and accelerating when trying to maintain speed. I have probably gained 1-1.5L/100km. Difference would be more if you used a lot of throttle aswell. At peak airflow - about 5010mV I think injectors were about 68% whereas before they were about 85% or something.

A friend got it second hand in japan - but it was a very new version For RB25DET Series 1

Far out. Think about it - when you increase the pressure in your tyre from 40 - 42psi what are you putting in there?? Heat or Air??? Sure you could raise the pressure by heating the tyre (that's why there is difference between cold and hot pressure readings) but when you go to the servo they have air compressors. You are adding air to the tyre. Pv = nRT has been exploited here. You could use the ideal gas law before and after the turbo on the compressor side. P1V1/R1T1 = P2V2/R2T2 Before ............ After compression As you increase pressure from the turbo compression (i.e. P1 to P2) you have to increase Temp (T1 to T2) also to maintain the ideal gas law. As R1 =R2 (ideal gas constant). Your actual volume flow rate should be about the same before and after. On the inlet you will be sucking air under negative gauge pressure hwen you are boosting

I had a new version of powerfc that required them to finsh the update about a month or so ago. I think it was 2.32a

Sounds like you're taking some precaution. I was thinking maybe I should have had mine tuned to 12psi then back it down later, but I am pretty happy. I'm getting a bit better fuel consumption aswell it seems. Enjoy the 210rwkw. That's a lot of power from stock turbo - about the same as a typhoon 4.0L falcon (in a lot lighter car!!)

Running the standard turbo I can't see much point in going FMIC. Maybe if you are a trackwarrior - using the FMIC to keep the inlet temps down. The standard turbo shouldnt be pushed much above 10psi - at this level the R34 cooler isn't too shabby. I had a powerfc tune and am quite happy.

Good power. I recently got 172rwkw on 10psi with R34 SMIC. Dyno is apparently conservative - so may be closer to 180rwkw on other dynos. 12psi is pushing the turbo a bit. I can't believe the difference to my car, I'm sure you're the same or even moreso. I gained about 25rwkw but the response is better too.

Standard ECU should be giving you about 9 or 10:1 AFR at those mod and boost levels. Check your fuel rail pressure under load. Most likely as they say a fuel pump issue. Replace fuel filter yourself before you get this investigated. Any tuner (respectable) will tell you these cars run rich when the wick on the turbo is turned up or mods added. In fact sometimes mods = less performance as more airflow = less timing, rich AFR. My stock ECU went down to 10:1 AFR at 8psi boost. Power FC went into 9:1 AFR under load at 10psi. Your fuel pump might deteriorate more so don't let it go too long before fixing it up. DONT use a SAFC to richen it up. It should be there to lean it out on these cars. As a side note - I got 172rwkw at 10psi on a conservative dyno (so within about 10kw of your figure). 10psi maybe safer for you.

At the end of the day you cant predict it really. A lot of WRXs boost there TD04s up to 17psi which also has a ceramic wheel, strange the nissan ones are so fragile. I love the response of the factory turbo. If I replaced it I would like to drive a car with a HKS 2530 and one with a GCG high flow to compare the two.