benl1981

Remove the centre Nissan branded spark plug cover panel. Run car without this. Pull off one plug to the coils one at a time. That will tell you the cylinder that is down - if that is the case. Then check the spark plug to see if the plug looks different to the others. Swap coil packs and see if the fault stays at the same cylinder. Check the loom etc to see that hasnt deteriorated.

Hahah - you should have removed the fuel pump aswell. You dont want to carry extra weight.

Some stock ECUs don't mind 10psi but I think with a FMIC and exhaust your airflows will be a lot higher so you may force the ECU to run very rich and retard the timing (you will then lose power!!) I am running 10psi but with a PowerFC, a SAFC may do the job - not as tuneable though. I considered 10psi to be a safe level, but you never know. May last 2 weeks or 4 years. The turbos are getting older now and even R34 ones have gone pop around 12psi. Depends how you use it. A track day will sort it out. I think I will drop boost presure to 7 or 8 psi if I hit the track.

I dont fancy getting off my butt for this. Pulling apart a dash to fix something that still works isnt my idea of fun

I think its something to do with the climate control. Mine does it - doesnt affect its function though. I would like to stop the noise though

security - you aren't going the rb30 bottom end anymore?

My friend with a 1JZ manual soarer got 170rwkw after exhaust, intercooler and CAI and SAFC tune Guess it all depends on the dyno. I just got 172rwkw on a conservative dyno (R33gtst - manual) running 10psi, R34 intercooler (still SMIC), Powerfc and tune, exhaust. Average power is very nice. My 170rwkw compared to the soarer 170rwkw is so different. I guess the weight difference helps my car aswell. 200rwkw is pushing the limits of the stock turbo For most making power out of the standard ECU is like pushing sh*t up a big hill. It is probably the part that is holding the car back the most.

No the tuning in the Auto computer must be slightly different. HPI states 184kw for the manual and 180kw for the auto. Also torque is down about 15-20Nm.. Sedan vs Coupe. How many kg different - about 20kg to 30kg? So the sedan might be 0.1-0.3 sec over the quarter. A manual ECU could be had for about 150-250 or go PFC...

I had only given it a bit of a hit in 1st then 2nd..I dont think this is heat soak. The tuner reckoned I could take it to the track the way it is with the R34 SMIC on it.. I realise a FMIC would be a bit better though...

Spoooks - did you do anything to cause the knock to settle down? I just got to knock of 61 as I got high in the rev range in 2nd gear.

No I didnt mean the tie rod but may have sounded like that. Sounds like you know what bit it is now. There is a ball and socket in there..when you remove the rack boot you will see it anyway. Cheers

I have a bleed valve on it at the moment, one of the $30 ones on the forums. I might swap it for an orifice piece that goes in place of the standard solenoid. Then it looks more stock.. just thought Id get the tune on the bleed valve since it may bring boost on a little earlier..atleast then the load points are tuned These cars seem to hold boost pretty well.,

I dont think I will go EBC. Might bring on boost 200-300rpm faster but I'm not really worried. Car is staying as is until something blows or I want a lot more power

Thanks R31nismoid. Yeah I'm not in ahurry to pull the turbo off it. The way I see it the next power increment is a little bit more expensive. To go further than this safely: Possibly new AFM $300 FMIC $600 new Turbo $2000 fuel pump $200 +other things +time +it won't look stock About $3000 or more. I know the car has a lot more potential but I'm pretty happy with it. Probably similar in acceleration to a 250kw LS1 or XR6 turbs but I'm not really sure - maybe they would eat me I dont know. My smaller 6 makes the power up higher. Skylines are a bit lighter - my car about 1400kg vs about 1700kg. Quite an adrenalin rush now. Sure I could push it and get another 15rwkw but how long does the turbo last?

Any driveshaft supply shop should have them: I paid about $12 each for stretch boots that mean you dont have to undo/disturb the wheel alignement. May not matter to you though if you are doing rackends while you are there. The rackend I believe is the part on the steering arm that allows it to pivot (for suspension movement), it is a ball and socket http://www.turnerdriveshafts.com.au/how2_rackbootkit.htm

Thanks Ronin. Yeah I think people get carried away with "an R33 can make 200rwkw with these mods etc". I didn't say to the tuner "others have made 200 etc" I was happy with the gain that he achieved. On the road the acceleration is much better. I know Im not going to win dyno comps and I dont really care too much about the end power figure. This tells me the car is relatively healthy and running to its potential giving the mods I have.

The FC Datalogit was used to tune it. No electronic boost controller. Just a simple bleed setup. The tuner is the one Sydneykid recommends - he tunes 400kw hondas and many skylines. Compared to others he thought this is a good figure. Not sure how a hub dyno reads compared to others. On other dynos this could be 180-190rwkw. When you think it is only 10psi I am pretty happy. What do LS1s or Xr6T stock put out at the wheeels?

Answered your own question - they arent interchangeable. You would need the ignitor pack aswell to make them work. Even then Im not sure

Oh ok. Mine didnt look like needing a new fuel pump was very rich all the way through at first. I wanted to keep boost fairly low so didnt push it. Looking back should have tuned at 11 or 12psi. Oh well...

whats an 040? is that a turbo? Nice!

Nice power - yeah we both might have to talk to our tuners. ................. Before....................After............. Gain 3000rpm 100rwkw ............100rwkw 4000rpm 114rwkw ............116rwkw ..... 2kw 4500rpm 125rwkw ............134rwkw ..... 9kw 5000rpm 138rwkw ............153rwkw ...... 15kw 5500rpm 144rwkw ............164rwkw ..... 20kw 6000rpm 148rwkw ............170rwkw ..... 22kw 6500rpm 148rwkw ............172rwkw ..... 24kw Not sure if the before and after are correct for the low rpm as he did some tuning at lower rpm before he did the power runs.

Funny you have a similar issue t me. Im thinking of calling my tuner in the morning - mines not that high but still a bit concerning. How nice does it feel now? Mines great at only 172rwkw. Do you have a FMIC?

Just thought I'd share: R33GTST Mods: 10 psi 3" dump (batmbl) 3" CAT (batmbl) 3.5" Cat back kakimoto Pipercross Panel High flow filter in stock box R34 intercooler PowerFC Results: BASE MAP: At 10psi gave around 145rwkw - see graph - AFR very rich and some aggressive timing in the wrong spots. TUNED MAP: Around 172rwkw. I think final run was 170.9rwkw as some timing was taken out. On the dyno knock was kept below 20. ON THE ROAD: Feels more repsonsive, but most gain is when you get over 3500rpm - 4000rpm. Going round corners the tacho flies towards redline as the expensive michelins battle for grip where they didn't before. Only thing is knock went to 58 on the way home. I might call the tuner in the morning..he seems to know his stuff though. I'll have to see when the knock is occuring. Hard to see on the hand controller..might have to get someone else todrive and have a look at the bar chart.. I should ad that the dyno is apparently quite conservative. Cars often make 5-10 kw at the wheels more on other dynos for some reason. The tuners thought this was a good power level at this boost level with a fairly stock setup. I didn't ask for max power just a reliable tune. With light/medium loads tuned aswell.

Read Cubes Rb30 guide..if only your bottom end is shot and gaskets the 3L bottom end may be the cheapest fix..

Go the copper ones. Standard NGK are the go - about $3 each - last about 30k kms or more. Unless you are getting someone else to put them in, which = labour cost to remove crossover pipe etc..might consider platinums or iridium then