benl1981

They're only cheap jap cars now anyway. Why have a $15k R33 and a $4k runabout. I guess if you have a GTR maybe that's different - but still you should have insurance. If anything bad happens you can claim.

I had to tighten the Alternator belt quite a lot before it stopped squeeling. Take it back to the palce - get them to fix it. Battery light could be related to a slipping alternator belt. I.e alternator isnt charging the battery. Get them to check it though

Find a mate with a PFC - plug it in and run the base map. I had probs around 9psi hich I thought was coils but turned out to be the standard ECU going into Rich and retard mode. PFC connected instead - no probs

You should get better than 12L/100km if you really are feathering the throttle. I get about 10.5L/100km if I drive like a grandma. Depends on the cycle. Heavy city driving yes 12 seems about right. Remember its only when you come on to boost that they should consume more than a N/A car of the same weight/engine size. My R33 is a daily driver. I find even 10-12L/100km quite costly drinking premium - compared to my SX 1.6 corolla - thashing that would give about 7.5L/100km on regular. Im going to get a PFC tune to hopefully help the fuel consumption. I like the R33 though..plus there are a few minor blemishes which makes me less worried about it

Yeah thanks my fronts spin a lot more freely. I guess you dont have a differential (i.e gears etc) to turn on the front. I guess if it was abnormal youd see your pads wearing quick/smell?

C'mon - somebody please. It isn't excessively wearing the pads but I'm just wondering if this could be costing power or fuel economy. Anybody whose done their rear pads would know Cheers

Theres a vent hole I believe that is seperate to the main hole..they're not talking about disconnecting the BOV all together..

Is it a worthy mod? I found a thread once on it but cant locate it now - even then I think it was inconclusive

Just replaced my rear R33 pads yesterday. I noticed that with the handbrake off it was quite hard to slip the pads out. Put the new pads in after gclamping the calipers back. The wheels spun fairly freely. Once I pumped the pedal a few times I tried again (bringing the pistons up). The wheels would then spin but almost as soon as you stopped spinning it the wheel would only spin for abother second if that. There was more resistance which I guess is normal.. Just wondering if other people have found the same..or if there is an adjustment for this. Thanks

xr8eater - do you have an r33 or r32 - did you get the one wit the right plug for $95? Thanks

Not the flutter. Blocking that bit on the BOV - doesnt that just blcok the vent hole. The BOV actually still functions

Is this a worthy mod?

Itd be nice to buy an Rb30 that you could see runs ok in a car (either VL or R31) before you buy it. Are most of the cranks usually ok anyway? Just know of a guy that put together an L20 - spent a bit of money on it, but when he got it together it had a bent crank!!

I have a stock gauge and got a simple pressure gauge - both read about the same. An autometer gauge read 2psi higher.

Are you going to get the crank balanced? If I were doing it id be taking your path. Sounds like you can get 270rwkw b4 you need forgies. I reckon I'd be happy with 250rwkw of smooth power!!

GTST will you put new rings and bearings in etc? Sorry to deviate...

I dont find mine very loud with high flow panel and air box. Maybe somebody has taken the lining out or something

Well they are quite a bit more practical..to some they dont look as good but I much rather having the convenience of 4 doors

Anybody know how to remove the panel in an R33 underneath the passenger side air vent. I have the glovebox out but can not remove the whole bit of plastic behind because it is attached there.. I have all the screws out..

I have taken the console out and then there are about 8 screws that hold a plastic tray on. I have removed all them and the latch but I cant get it to come out from the section under the air vent..any tricks. Just trying to find a squeek/rattle that sounds like its coming from under there Thanks

Did that dark blue commo blow up? Was scarily powerful..sitting right in front of it I was hoping it didnt come out of the cell!!

jl - have you got a pic of the boot showing the extra room? Cheers

4 doors are good for carting people around etc. Still the boot isnt very big and shame rear seats dont fold down, pretty good for a sports car though. I tend to like the rear of them.

Didnt see the 300rwkw buried down in the thread - fair enuf, he needs the 6cyl. So tuna - what is the comparison betweenthe 1J and RB25 in these 2 180s?

The car came out with an SR20 in it!!! Makes it easier..the Sr is a shorter motor. Run stock internals and better turbo, powerfc nd youll be set.. I think you can do better if you get an S14 or S13 front cut. Wack it in. You could make about 200rwkw on stock internals?? If you blow it spend $1k on another motor. I dont believe the Sr20s are any more expensive than an Rb25. If you really want the grunt - go the Rb25...