benl1981

Thanks for that. I haven't got any further with this. I searched that part number for the pressure switch and not much comes up. I was thinking of just buying one and getting it fitted to rule it out. Might have to buy straight from Nissan. Regarding my voltage at the pins which don't seem to match with what they should be I still think there may be a separate problem. I was looking at the circuit diagram and think that since the revs go up when the AC button is pressed suggests that pin 46 / the thermo amp is Doing the right thing. Does this mean that I could Use the signal from pin 46 (or convert it somehow) signal instead of trying to get the ecu to output pin 9 correctly.

Thanks 89CAL. I'll look into it further based off that. Did you mean 46 instead of 36 in your last paragraph. Re. Swapping out the relay, doesn't the fact that when the terminals are bridged the compressor clutch works demonstrates it is ok? I may have 2 issues. To test the high low pressure switch on the dryer I checked each for the 4 pins for continuity. Only 1 set of diagonal pins show a closed circuit/continuity. Since this is meant to be for both the fan and the compressor clutch, shouldn't I have got 2 sets of pins that should continuity if the pressure switch is working as intended (with adequate gas in the system? Is anyone with a working aircon on an R33 able to kindly set a multimeter to continuity check and rest one probe on one of the pins (unplug the 4 pin terminal at the top of the dryer unit near the power steer) and then move the other probe around to check the remaining 3 pins. And then do this to the other 3 pins. That way I can decide if I start at this sensor. Many thanks

Interesting thread. I'm trying to diagnose a similar issue: 1. Air con has just been regassed and all good 2. Compressor or condensor fan do not kick in when AC button pushed. 3. By disconnecting the plug at the dryer (high/low pressure switch) and bridging the terminals on the plug the compressor kicks in and the cabin gets nice and cool 4. I have checked pin 9 and seems to be 12v, pin 46 seems to be 0v Does this mean there are possibly 2 issues? I.e high/low pressure switch is not working correctly and for some reason the button is not triggering properly. I can hear the relay kicking in when you press the air con button and also the engine revs go up and down.. I have an ems 6860 computer. Could it be that pin46 needs to be programmed? Is pin9 from the climate control and pin 46 is an output from the computer? Based on what pins 9 and 46 should be doing from some of the posts above I'm surprised the compressor kicks in at all. I was thinking of grabbing a trigger straight from the climate control and using that for the compressor trigger but concerned that the evaporator sensor won't be incorporated or the high/low switch.. Many thanks

Brand new in plastic genuine bearings for rb25det or rb25de skyline r33 / r34 Bought for 100k km service (these are a must) no longer required as I sold the car. Willing to sell Both for $110 or $70 each. Pickup from northern beaches or near artarmon.

Anyone that hasn't paid please pm me as I can offer my spot at a reduced amount. I have to pull out unfortunately hope to do the next one Thanks Ben

$10 for each

Stock castor rods x 2 could do with new bushes but otherwise perfect - $15 for the pair Speedo/dash cluster manual r33 gtst series 2 159k had some intermittent taco flickering but everything else ok. I hear there is a fix for that but didn't get to do it - $25 Pickup Brisbane city

Hi there, I have made payment $75. With the CAMS licence, it mentions you can do that on the day. What do you need to bring and how much is it? Is that the best way to do it. Is that licence only for th day? Apologies if this is covered somewhere in detail already. Ben

Hi there is there a texi 7th October? Couldn't seem to find the thread.. Thanks

Datalogit sold

Will do - $370 on the injectors INCLUDING new Geneunine seals worth over $40. - $180 on the datalogit - $135 on the wideband kit

sold - thanks

PowerFC SOLD Will take - $370 for the 6 x 480cc/min S15 injectors (Or $400 with 12 x brand new nissan seals) - $200 for the datalogit with RS232 to USB convertor etc - $140 for the Wideband 02 kit

It does series 1 and 2. The r33gtst powerfc is rare.

As topic states will sell for $870. Grab a bargain. Location: Brisbane CBD

AFM and plug sold Powerfc r33gtst and HC 900 Datalogit will do 220

I will take $900 for the PowerFC. thanks.

All, I have the following parts for sale as I decided to keep the car stock. R33GTST PowerFC with Hand Controller (Complete in box) - $950. Used but in as new condition (small scratch on HC screen - refer pic taken at worst angle, not noticeable when using it). Comes with a few tunes but best to do your own to suit. Datalogit with CD and RS232 convertor - $240 (Used but in As new condition) Z32 AFM Brand new complete with correct Z32/VL plug - $250 (Brand new in box) S15 Injectors 450cc x 6 - $400. I also have brand new seals to go with these if you need them (24 in total). Nissan price is about $3 each. I will do the seal set for about $25 total. Or $420 injectors and seals package. Wideband O2 Sensor kit - Innovate LC1 Complete kit with gauge – Used but in great condition $160. Only used briefly for about 2 months . Prefer Local pickup. I am in Brisbane city

Rightio. Let us know how it goes! The hose in question only has the clamps you need long nose pliers for. Hopefully one of the mechanics I call has done this before and has all the little tools.

Hi guys, There is a small 90 hose around the back of the engine that eventually leads to the turbo (coolant feed). Have many people had any luck replacing this without removing too much. It may just need a hose clamp as it is dropping around the old style clamp but probably better to replace the small bit of hose. Might call around a few skyline/Nissan mechanics. Hopefully some of them have a way to do this. Bit cramped around there! Need small hands Thanks

Old thread but has anyone been able to replace the little 90 deg rubber hose at the back of the engine leading to the turbo carrying coolant? What is the easiest/quickest way without pulling off the intake manifold. Do you need special tools or just miniature hands hahah.

Deposit taken. Thanks for the interest.

Selling my 1997 R33 GTST. Rare factory manual turbo in excellent condition. Nothing to spend. Registered until 25/6/13. Will easily pass RWC. Can supply for the right buyer if required. Location: Brisbane. Car is close to standard but with the following mods: - R34GTT intercooler - 9psi (safe boost level). Turbo tech boost control - Tomei Fuel Pump (Direct replacment - Splitfire Coil packs - MP3/CD player with AUX in - Turbo timer - 3" Turbo back exhaust with high flow cat - Cat back is an Invidia High perfornance Stainless Exhaust. Quiet and does not drone at all. Best compromise which was carefully selected. Still has a good note but allows for easy driving on the highway and around town Extras the car came with standard: - ABS - Dual Airbag - Battery is located in the engine bay on this model so the boot is a lot bigger. There is much more usable space (will take pic when I get a chance of that) Recently completed the following: - Tomei fuel pump install to replace stock pump - Brand new front KYB Shock absorbers - Replaced Power steering hoses so no leaks (common on R33s getting to this age) - Replaced tie rod end and sway bar link - Replaced Broken exhaust manifold studs and new exhaust and turbo gasket installed (Big Job 95% of skylines have atleast a few broken studs by now) - Replaced Rubber fuel hoses and fuel filter - Replaced Spark plugs - Near new 4 x Kumho Tyres all round Great car to modify further or enjoy it as is it is. Currently makes good responsive power. Oil changed every 4000km with synthetic. Does not use any oil between changes or blow any smoke. Kilometers: 123,000km Price: $6750 (Priced to sell, good condition car that is hard to find - please contact if interested) Reason for sale: Only selling due to growing family - otherwise I would be keeping this car! Ben 0408 272 849

hi there As per above. Sydney. Preferably north of city. Its only a small bit of hose from cam cover to turbo for the breather. If you install a catch can most of the time you don't use this. Thanks!

With datalogit captuing the average AFRs is this possible to get the tune 90% on the road without too much effort? I would set slightly richer targets at the higher load points than the map status posted and keep adjusting Air flow curves to get the AFRs down to match the fuel map ratios. Is that the way to go? Also back off timing on the higher load points to max about 16 degrees and work up from there if no knock. Then may get touch up on the dyno? Thanks