benl1981

How much are simex for 205/55 16s - if they are ok I might grab a set.

Buy a powerfc - dont waste your time getting a stock ECU - thats going to be your biggest compromise if you do. I think somebody is selling a R34 PFC on the forums. Buy the loom and youll be away. Failing that just by the R33 motor

Unless you get a powerfc or safc don't bother with a front mount. Like fat is saying above you will proabbly get Rich and retard due to the extra airflow and then loose power. Unless you turn the boost down or leave it at 7-8psi...

I had savas on the back and they were SCARY. Maybe they had been sitting around for ages but they were as hard as rocks. I know have michelin premacy on the rear (still 205s) and I probably have more traction in the wet than I did in the dry with the savas... These 205s hold on pretty well, unsure if wider would help a lot - but you have to give it quite a bit before the back steps out. I don't do it much now because tyres are expensive. On the savas - who cares if you chew them up (I couldn't though) they are virtually like plastic.

Mine did the same as yours Justin. If you ran the radio for 20 mins you couldn't start it. Unless there is something draining it like an amp etc I'd say it may be just the battery. Was a pain in the arse - was clutch starting for a while... My new battery is fine Cna listen to the radio for an hour or so (with car off) - no issues

If it only has 11.6v surface it is fkd - no doubt about it. Surface charge cn tell you a bit as most god condition batteries will read above 12v. Although there is a chance a dodgy battery will read 12.5v but as RB30 said as soon as load goes on it drops away very quickly. One you get the car started put the multimereacross the battery - if you get 13.8v your alternator is fine

Mine did the same and was the battery. But check the voltage when the car is running - if it is 13.8-14.4v then the alternator is ok. If not you may havea shagged alternator and fixing battery wont help. 11.5v is too low. Mine is about 12.5v without the engine running.

Randy - I just popped the top vent that doesn't have any mechanism on it (near derivers side door in dash and put some double sided tape around. It's a bugger cause I just had all the vents out for when I did the stereo - could have lubed them then...oh well.

Thanks guys. Some good ideas there. The old mazda doesnt have as many rattles as the skyline which is strange because the skyline feels a lot more solid. I'll try and fix some of them but in the meantime will listen to CDs.

Anyone know the best way to fix a few rattles in the R33 When I hav ethe stereo off I can hear a noise around the console and another near the air vent on the drivers side - the one above and on the dash - to the right. If I put pressure on that one the noise from there stops. It doesn't appear to be loose though. Just wondering if anybody had embarked on a de-rattle program for their car. Its th only thing tha makes it feel old - as the performance and comfort is pretty good. CHEERS

Maybe the gauge reads different or the technique. Basically if it doesnt use oil and doesn't blow smoke you should be pretty right. Not much you can do about it besides rebuild

Um - you shouldnt be seeing 4.3 volts. Max you should see is 1v!!!

Yeah bro.. how da oes it go?

Bad luck mate. What sort of belt was it - from toys r us you say?

Hey skylinecoupe - did you bend valves?

Somebody said there is one in the boot. I have installed a new MP3 headunit but utilising stock speaker cables etc. I was wondering where the amp in the boot is so I can by pass it - if there is one stil there. I dont think it has the bass it should comparing to other head units - this is a sony. I have found I think the HICAS and ABS computer - I think they are the 2 there - anyone got pics? CHEEERS

Hey Col GTSX - wasnt directing it at you...Just seems like they havent come to a conclusion on what is a good sensor to use. Just stirring I guess but would like to know in case I need one

So your telling me after 21 pages you guys haven't figured out what is a cheap alternative to the stock sensor ... I thought you would be able to get any sensor suitable for a turbo with same thread pattern..all 02 sensors read 0-1v and have a simlar "narrow" band of operation Thats rough

$20 Somebody must need one ")

I didn't really get any better economy. If you do a lot of kms make sure you select a quiet exhaust...I have a kakimoto which is pretty quiet. Good to free up the exhaust though otherwise any other performance bits or boost increase you are not getting the full benefit of.

You can pull off the return hose somewhere near the resevoir and allow it to empty into a bottle.. Just trying to rememeber the setup though. You can keep adding fluid so you keep it topped up and see clear stuff coming through the return hose. Once clear connect back up..

I just wacked some caltex stuff in that is Auto transmission fluid left over from about 5 years ago... Anything will do provided it says for power steering on the bottle

Optimax is fine that is not the problem. Any of the recognised 98 octanes are fine. Fuel filters are cheap - I'd replace that and run some injector cleaner. A friends R33 witht the petrol from japan cut out at 5000rpm. I think the importer after that mixed a lot of methylated spirits in with the fuel (double check this) and just drove it softly for a while. Workshop might be the best - if you are leaning out due to injectors being clogged could blow the engine

About 12L/100kms here. If I'm good to it 11L/100kms

Just did this tonight - very easy job. I got a cooper Z200 filter, bought it ages ago, was less than $15 I think. The old one when I blew through it spat out blackish petrol...I wonder if my rubber hoses are deteriorating a little. Might start replacing them.. Car is about 12 years old an R33. Previous filter was in for about 25k kms from previous owners records z200 was a direct fit I just made sure engine was relatively cold undid bottom hose on the filter - a bit of petrol backflowed from the filter, not much though..