benl1981

Yeah Im interested in some tyres around this size but those may not even pass rego

Oh yeah - sorry Mafia. Yeah I try not to give mine too much either as Im not sure on the AFRs etc. Set rev limit to 5500rpm and try not to give it too much. There's just no way you should be only getting 200km to a tank!! That must be so expensive to run. I'm annoyed when I only get 400km to the tank. Last car was a corolla 4AGE so I was spending literally half on petrol compared to now (Used about 7L/100km of regular vs. 12L/100km of premium). Hopefully after the tune I will average close to 10L/100km. The tuner reckons these cars (R33s) should get 10L/100km

Yeah 200km is woeful. On base map mine will do about 450km to a tank. Check your load points, 02 sensor, maybe you have a leaky injector. Cubes - do you think ULP is fine if you don't hit the accelerator hard ever. Just thinking if you knew you werent goign to hammer it for a week or 2 and jjust driving round town off boost most of the time would it be ok...

Yeah what about just a spray nozzle and a water cooling setup for the intercooler. Cheap to setup and may bring the inlet temps down slightly. All you need is a washer bottle and a spray nozzle and a switch. Sounds like you may need the extra octane though...

Yeah I was a retard and put a little araldite on mine. It was so hard to get off I shattered the knob...maybe that makes me the knob Next time I will use teflon tape or similar to make it line up properly not just grab what I have lying around!!

200kms a tank - you sure your injectors and everything in your fuel system is up to spec. My R33 running on an untuned PFC (so should be rich) gives about 400km to a tank at least. Slightly more than standard ECU but not much. Is 200km when you are on the hammer? Injectors not giving out a nice fine spray or a clogged fuel filter could contribute to the pinging.

Hey SK - if you take out the starter you could have used a tool to stop the ring gear right? Then just use a 1/2" socket? Was it hard getting the cam sprockets off and on? I did a timing belt a while ago but there was no signs of leaks so I didn't take the cam sprockets off nor the crank timing gear. I would be worried when I undo the bolts on the sprocket that the camshaft will move. Did you loosen the 4 bolts on each sprocket before the belt came off? Also did you just use a flat screwdriver to kind of prise the sprocket off or did you use the harmonic balancer for that. Good thread.

Hi Trust , Was that the one that is about $22 for 2.5 liters...I saw that one there. I don't think that is a synthetic is it? Diff oil synthetic or not should be good for about 80k right? Thanks

bump

He obviously has a manifold and dump to suit this turbo - I would get things checked out first

I've been reading and find that some use the synthetic castrol that is about $25/litre. Others use the EPX80w90 about $10/litre There was also some Penrite 85/140 for LSDs that was $20 for 2.5Litres...anybody used penrite? On the castrol site it doesn't list R33s but for 200sx, 300zx it lists the EPX80w90 as the recommended. I am not going to be racing it much so I can't see the point in spending the big bucks on the synthetic. Will the EPX be ok? What does it come with standard - non synthetic oil? Cheers

WHat difference in handling would I notice with just the front shocks being bilsteins - would this be worth it you think? Thanks SK.

Hey Fatz - For 500 bucks a 3 litre bottom end? Do you just put it back together with an old RB30 bottom end? Is that a good idea.

Turn it anti clockwise should do the trick. No allen keys needed

I wouldn't go bigger turbo to achieve a 170kw power figure as you may be disappointed with the power delivery. You may get 170atw but in will be all or nothing. As for yours not feeling quick I would get in on the dyno - check the timing, Air fuel ratios and boost levels. There could be other things holding it back. I have a TD04L at home off a rex that I was going to turbo a corolla with. I think the RB20 turbo is a little bigger - not sure on specifics though. Are you running standard internals? What engine management? Any more than 130-140atwkw would be a waste. Ive been in a astra turbo that has 170kw (probably about 120-130atw) at the flywheel and any more in a front wheel drive would be silly. You'll be fiighting wheelspin and torque steer

Civics are a 1.6L aren't they? Should be big enough for your application. Does it lag much? I would expect you would make about 130rwkw. I think guys get up to about 170rwkw out of them but this is on a 2L 6 cylinder engine.

Does anyone know where to get Kybs or monroe cheaper than $130+gst each? I think I'm going to go povo option. I think the reason the standard shocks dont last long is because of the crappy dust boots. Almost all R33s have none existent boots by now. All that dirt getting in couldn't help...

Thanks SK - can you get just the fronts in bilsteins ? Ill check the group buy Will having only the fronts being adjustable be any benefit? Could I put my standard springs on the bilstein shocks?

So I could look for some second hand R34 front shock/spring assemblies and wack them in my R33? Same ride height after you think?

Do the fronts fit?? I mean will a R33gtst be able to take R34 GTT shocks

Hey, Just wondering how good stock shocks are. I have an R33 gtst sedan and replaced the rear shocks with KYB stockers...car handles a lot better. When I did this I put new dust boots on and noticed the fronts were bad aswell. Took them off aswell and took all 4 assemblies to the mechanic and he swapped in the 2 new struts and put boots on the old front ones. He said the fronts were in bad shape aswell but you dont really notice it when you push on the corners. Now I can get new KYBs for $130 each. Am I better off getting something adjustable. Is it worth having just the fronts adjustable? Im only looking at having maybe 1-2 track days a year. Also I dont want to reduce ride height as even now I only just get up our driveway without scrappage. . The car drives pretty well now but I think I can hear one of the front shcoks bouncing around. One of the rears you push the shock shaft in and it didn't come out at all. I think the mechanic said one of the fronts was in a similar state. Wish he told me before he put them together - would have done them all at once. Thanks

Yeah I've had a look at map trace and most of the time driving fills up all the low load cells. I find when I've been getting knock lately its around med throttle in 4th at about 3-4000rpm. Or even 2/3rds throttle up to 90km/h revving to 4000rpm.

nice to hear. Just wondering if Im already getting some knock can they really gain much by adding the timing (Wont I get more knock). Or do you think they can increase advance at different areas and retard enough in other places to make it quicker overall and knock less than on the base map... Will be nice if it feels quicker

Did you do any more mods to go from 150rwkw to 172 rwkw. Was 150rwkw on the base map of the powerfc? Then onto 180rwkw did you add mods? So you picked up 22rwkw - thats pretty good. It already feels quicker than the std ECU. I think this tuner will tune light load/med load but will ask him about it.

Called the tuner - might get it tuned next week Hopefully it goes a bit harder aswell... wonder if I will notice the difference. Running 10psi R34 SMIC, exhaust...