benl1981

Paul - so yours knocked a bit on the base map? I have set the rev limit to 5500rpm and don't thrash it too much. I've had it on the base map for about 2 months now. Economy is ok until you give it a bit then it goes out to about 13L/100kms pretty quick.

Thanks guys. Yes I will get it tuned - just waiting for Dyno Dave. Sounds like it isn't anything out of the ordinary just a few areas where the timing is a bit too far advanced. Maybe Dave will be able to stop the knock with a tune. Sydneykid - am I right in thinking this isn't something I should see to before the tune. I just don't want the tune to be compromised due to knock occuring

bump

anyone Should I be doing an engine decarb? I did a small dose of Redex petrol treatment routed through a vacuum hose while engine is running to decarb it but I only used about 100ml if that - I heard to do full decarb you should use close to 500ml. I got a lot of smoke for about 5 mins. Car seemed to pick up a bit of responsiveness... Is it worth doing some more? I was reading in some of Sydney kids posts that he doesnt have a problem on the base map with 98 octane. Most of the time the knock is low but every now and then I get higher than 30 which is worrying. I guess a 35 degC day is a test..

someone must know pfcs are pretty common Cheers

Id think this would be the same as lightening the flywheel..as been said above has disadvantages aswell

Just wondering if it is normal to get a bit of pre ignition on the base map. I have 10psi, R34 cooler, exhaust. Today being about 30+ degC thought I'd take 2 deg timing out on the hand controller. Under a bit of load saw knock of 39.. thought I'd take one more degree out (so -3 deg) and I saw 56 under load. So I took -5 deg out and thats when I was almost home so didnt get to see the effect of this but looked ok. I'm wondering if I should see to this before I get the dyno tune or is this normal?? I might replace the fuel filter on the weekend. I am running 15deg BTDC on the CAS Thanks

Must be in good condition. I broke a decent reproduction one I had trying to get it off as I put araldite on it to secure it

Is it a cefiro or r33 - they are slighlty different. I replaced a front bearing on an r33 only to find most of the noise was from the bent tailshaft I have some pics I may be able to dig up but if cefiro then different

If youre not racing it use something like castrol magnatec 10w40 and change every 5000kms

All the resistor values should be correct I double checked with a multimeter all there values. I did find with the calibration that when I had the multimeter on the input side as soon as I took the multimeter off it the load point would change by about 3 points. i.e. would go from 100 to 103 or something similar. I thought the multimeter was zapping some of the voltage as I was only using the silly trimpot that would fluctuate quite a bit

Let me know what you find out I am more than happy to return it... I feel bad.

Thats a bugger. I'm really disappointed about that..I don't really think there is anything wrong but calibration...if there is I will take it back for you I found that with the unsteady voltage from the pot that as soon as you removed the multimeter from the I think input measuring terminal the load point increased so you were no longer comparing apples with apples when you moved the multimeter to the side that was measuring the output Wierd. Thought having a stable supply would definately stop that. I.e. a 5v source or similar...

Hey Gengis - sorry to hear that mate.. I think I have the receipt for the DFA somewhere here... input should have = output spot on. I don't know if 0.2 volts should have made that much difference but the whole point in the calibration is to make sure input = ouput. Shame they didn't stop the tune after they found the lean running - that should have indicated something was not right!!! Either fuel pump or the DFA or injectors or Fuel pressure reg or fuel filter. Wonder what the black smoke was then. If you check the DFA on the bench and get output to = input there shouldn't be a problem. Then when you get it in the car check when settings = 0 (i.e. no adjusment) that the output = input for idle and then at 4000rpm held constant. If you keep the cover on the DFA open you can check this easy. So sorry to hear you had such bad luck. When I had it working on the bench it seemed to do exactly what it should have however I just wanted to check with a constant voltage source to ensure calibration was right. I think the 0.2volts difference may have been causing the issue. Let me guess output was 4.8volts when input = 5v i.e. by doing this it is the equivalent of using a resistor to shift all the AFM values down. It may be a combination of the the DFA calibration, and some fuel system issue. Shame they didn't just take the wires out of the input and out of output and joined them together to check the AFRs then. Then you would know for sure if it was the DFA causing lean out or other issue..

I would just like to get some reasonable castrol oil for the diff thanks. Anyone know

My car want maxing the injectors out though...

bump - $25

If it is a GTST then I think they all have LSDs right?? Im interested to know what oil is best at a n affordable price.

Just a side question - my car has flashed the engine light near 5600rpm when I hit the rev limiter. I have the rev limit set to that at the moment. Does it ever flash if you hit rev limit? Knock on the controller was less than 40 peak when this happened. Set the rev limit low as I haven't had a tune yet Cheers

Where are you measuring teh voltage. I would think your car would be very hard to start with that lower voltage. Possibly time for a new battery but check connections etc first. If your car is kicking over ok then you may be reading the voltage incorrectly

Hey Gengis - at low load inputs e.g. Probably about 30 to 50 or something any changes you make won't lean it out because the engine is in closed llop. I.e. ECU will vary injector pulse based on 02 sensor reading. So what you'll get is probably just a gegree or 2 more advanced timing by taking out voltage at these load points. Glad it is going ok

They must have done a few since I spoke to them last. Thats great. I've heard reasonable reports about them but havent actually taken a car there.

I'm suprised yours is rough. When the silicon/rubber comes off it is incredibly smooth and glossy - just balck palstic. Only did it cause I had all the bits 9/10s out. Should have taken it off to start with - a lot easier getting the stereo in and out.. My ac works fine etc - just thought id ask in case there was a simple fix , while I had things out.

Yes thats it

Yeah yeah what a sucker!! - I was driving past a nissan in ryde yesterday - tried to get trade but they wouldnt do it. Thoguht for the sake of looking around - may cost more in time a nd effort.. Good fit this one.