benl1981

I have the dash surround off at the moment installing a stereo. Just wondering if it easy to fix the actuator or whatever the problem is. Its about a 5 click sequence when you change the temp on climate control or change setting - sometimes on start up too. Do you need parts or can you repair whatever is broken yourself. It functions ok just makes some strange clicks nw and then Thanks

I just went to Nissan and got a brand newie pulsar pocket - fits nicely - other nissan ones may have fit but couldndnt be bothered checking. $33 - a lot for a bit of plastic but looks good now. Though while Im at it I've decided to peel all the rubber/silicone coating off the dash surround and paint it. I'm going to use Matt Black paint ($3 at pig W). The paint I have gives a textured type feel. I did the drivers side power window surround about 6 months ago - looks good and has held up to the test of time so far. I peeled all the material off - used a bit of thinner - the occasioinal rough up with the file to disturb it and fingers to get it all off. The vents dont seem to come out easy - there is one sort of rivet type screw to stop you taking these out - Might tape them up before the spray Thanks guys! PS Is it an easy fix while I have everything off to stop the air con click clicking when you change temp and at random times?

Thats cool man - sounds like your pretty good with the soldering wand, glad you were able to fix up the things you thought were a bit iffy. Just make sure you get the DFA doing what it should b4 you take it the dyno. Like you're doing check on the bench when you add + or - that the output voltage changes. Yeah but if the 02 is incorrectly sensing the 02 level you may be getting AFR of 13:1 or something.. Do you drive it hard - 350km per tanks is pretty low. If you are running 10psi on stock ECU then you are probably riunning very rich if you are pushing it. Hopefully DFA will help. What was your fuel consumption before on stock boost?

Hey Gengis - It booted up on mine no problems with 12.6v from that battery (i.e without car running) I find that very odd that you needed 20v. I made sure every pin wasn't dry - some had more solder than others I guess but I wouldn't have thought you'd call them dry... Anyway glad you got it calibrated well. Sorry you had to fiddle with it a bit... Hey Gengis...that sensor check on your consult isn't good enough to tell you if your 02 sensor is ok or not. When you get on the dyno to tune the DFA get them to check your Air to fuel ratios at idle and at low low points. These should be 14.7 as the 02 sensor if its functioning properly will be varying the injector duty cycle to maintain this. I.e. ECU will be in closed loop mode using feedback from 02 sensor. P.s Yeah the pot was crap for calibration...wonder if I got a bad one

Thanks Randy - I see - should turn out ok

Ps this can pick up Nova 96.9 - It comes out at 79.9. Also gets up to 106.5 (mix Fm or whatever) So I think it can pick up from about Aussie 90Mhz -108Mhz

Jap to Aussie band expander Location: Sydney Item Condition: Good Reason for Selling: New stereo Price and Payment Conditions: $30 ( I think they are about $45 new) Extra Info: Small item can possibly include postage Contact Details: Perfect working condition - this one works very well picks up stations clearly (I've heard some don't) Here is a pic of it Heres a similar one at jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...x=&SUBCATID=526

Link works now Funny thing is my fascia fits whenthe side metal backets are on...however when I go to install it the skyline instrument surround won't go down over it (So I guess my unit must be sitting further out in relation to the bracket causing this fouling. Maybe I'll see if there is another spot I can screw it into. Only other option is to chisel out the fascia but in my case so it sits over the top of the black skyline insrument surround... Good guide there!

Got the deck working just need to clean the surrounds.. sounds pretty good. Its an Mp3 Cd tuner (sony). Still have to get the pocket etc. Just happy to get all the wiring done etc. Will keep that in mind about the amp install/rcas etc. Thanks

Yes teflon tape - thats what my dad said.. would have saved time and a gear knob Hey Randy - thanks for the installation guide... Did you run RCA or speaker wires to the boot? Is it ok to run speaker and RCA cables together? I know you shouldnt run power near speaker or RCA...thanks

Got it off - broke the knob though thread is fine - thanks for the help

Is pretty hard to get it out with all the console bit hanging around. There is also another boot under the 4 bolt boot thing.. Its got to a point I cant tighten or undo it...Dont know if Ive wrecked the thread or something...what a bitch...

Thnaks mate. Didnt realise you could take the whole stick out... I was able tu turn it about 5 turns (very hard though) but now it wont budge... Thanks

link didnt work

Can get a series 1 R33 for around 13-15k..You might get 10k for yours.. Less hassle and you've got a car with better resale down the track. If you have done a conversion on yours people will always question the quality of it..It will never sell for as much as a stock turbo..

Silly question but Im just tring to get to the stereo and trying to get the gear knob off. When I put it on last I used a little bit of araldite to secure it so all the numbers lined up (bad move!) Now I am having such a time getting it off. Looks like I will have to sacrifice the gear knob. I.e. grip the gear shift shaft with multi grips and grab hold of the knob with some other grips to get tsom torque on it.... Anbody had a similar prob...I have undone it about 1/2 way (it was tight the whole way)..now it won't budge at all... I am going anti clockwise on it.

Thanks Siks - Im going to pull it apart today and put the new deck in then add a pocket to suit. Cheers!

hahah - must include a turbo...

Yeah cheack your master cylineder isn't leaking (look inside the car to check there is no fluid near the pedal box etc)... like mumbo said bleed the line

Being a tight arse I have coles and woolies vouchers i.e. shell and caltex so I try to fill up at those if the price is reasonable. I usually fill up when the price is good even if I still have near a 1/2 tank (still about $40!!) If your tuning it to the best possible fuel and then you use some other fuel that isn't as good you could do engine damage. Why limit yourself to one fuel. Batches at different servos will vary all the time anyway depending how recently they cleaned filters etc...how clean there tanks are ectc

who cares most fuels are similar if they are 98. People wank on a lot about I use ultimate etc...

Get one of those non slip rag things to help your grandma open cookie jars...Failing that tap a screwdriver throught the cover of the oi filter and use that to lever it - Do this woward the end of the filter (i.e. furthest part of filter from engine..)

Redline or use some slick50 treatment. Or Nulon. I think Slick is the best. Couldhelp reduce the problem. Since you have already replaced the oil I would buy a ttreatment of some sort...siphon out a little gearbox oil and add the treatment. Drive for 1000kms see if it gets better...If not - take out a little bit more and add another additive... Not sure if it will be bad to mix but the box doesnt sound thmuch good anyway... Redline is more just a decent gear oil - I think the traeatments have more of a chance of working.

Hey Sydneykid - you said.... "Suggestions to your questions follow; 1. There should be no difference, the engine should run exactly the same. I strongly suggest you check the input and output voltages across the whole range of AFM voltages" I assume you were just doing the test with the car sitting in neutral. Comparing reading at idle then say 2000rpm, 3000rpm and up to 5000rpm etc. This still will only give you comparison from 1v up to about 3v right? How did you calibbrate the fuel adjuster for the higher volatages? (Not on the dyno right) mine seems to be within about 0.1v at the higher end and about 0.01 v at low voltages. Using the crappy trimpot though. I find as you measure input voltage when you take the multimeter off the load point changes about 4 points, then I go to adjust and it goes from 4v to 8v!! I guess with a more stable signal such as from the AFm you won't get this problem.. Still not sure do you just calibrate from 1-3v and assume it to ber gith for the rest. you really wasnt to have load point 128 whenAFm reads about 5.2v right? As the AFM can read this high if enough airflow. Don't know ifI got an overly bad trim pot... I'm selling it to someone so I'm just trying to give it to him calibrated to the best of my ability...

Off topic sorry - but yeah those valvoline ones are dodgy. I got one for a camry that didnt even fit the thread!! The blue ones can also be coopers. I know these are good as I've disassembled them...plus they are cheap