benl1981

Closed loop wont be leaner. It will adjust fueling based on 02 sensor output!! It's dodgy but hey if you dont go too far it should be ok. I mean you wouldnt do it to an expensive engine.. for the cost of a jaycar DFA or SAFC you are smarter to do that...

Sold to Gengis. Taken off ebay. Cheers. If falls through will let the other people know..

I have a 4 door R33 turbo and I know the tailshaft is the same as a 2 door turbo. I think many of the parts are interchangeable. Good luck with it.

take it easy till you can afford a new clutch. Your car may have a few more kms that 59k - most cars are wound back. Even then it could be possible that you only get 60k kms out of a clutch. You can get a Heavy duty replacement for around $350..or a nissan patrol clutch (hmm maybe not actually because yours is series 2). Budget on about $800-$1000 installed. You may need new rear main seal etc.. If you drive sensibly I would guess about 90k kms. Im only guessing as Im new to turbos and expect them to go through them a bit quicker.

Item: Jaycar DFA, hand controller and Cable Location: Sydney Item Condition: New and assembled Reason for Selling: Got PFC at decent price Price and Payment Conditions: $180 ono Extra Info: On ebay at the moment. If interested - let me know so I can take down ad before it gets a bid. See other ad for pics and more details. Thanks. See how it has been used before... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...Jaycar++digital You can also get a boost control to use with the hand controller. Contact Details: PM This is my other ad. If you are interested let me know as I cantake off ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Jaycar-Digital-Fuel...1QQcmdZViewItem

ANybody know about the pocket - close to $40 is too much

Cool thanks. I'll check it out...Cubes do you know what the other 2 wires are for?

Don't think I will bother with this if it is believed 200rwkw will be ok on stock pump and wiring...

So for 200rwkw I shouldn't bother with this mod? If I did do it does it not matter that you have say 20mm of the thinner wire before you splice it? Thanks P.s. at the moment Im at 85% duty cycle on the base PFC map. I guess it will be reduceed a little after the tune. but If the fuel pump cant maintain the appropriate fuel pressure at the rail you will get less flow thought the injectors for a given duty cycle.

And the white is the negative is it? Thanks a lot!! What are the other 3 wires then? Is the best way to do it to cut the wires further back (outside the cover). Cut the blue there. Use te blue there as the trigger for the relay and use the 12v feed from the battery and relay and splice it back into the blue wire heaing to the pump. The White wire just cut it around there and run straight to battery negative or chassis earth posts in the boot. You still will get a little voltage loss but its over a shorter distance I guess. Does that blue wire run right from the front of the car etc? Thanks PS Is it worth doing this? If Im only going for around 200rwkw - cold it save probs when tuning? Do R33s usually have low voltage at the pump?

Ok - not sure if to start a new thread. I have an R33 and just wondering about the wiring and which ones to use. There are in total 5 wires going to the pump. a 2 pin plug and a 3 pin plug. The 2 pin plug has thicker wires so I'm thinking they are the positive and negative. Couldn't see the relay unless it is inbuilt down there. I was going to get someone to hit the ignition because it only primes for a second but didn't get a chance. All pins were at the chassis potential as when I toughed the multimeter to +ve on battery and the other to each pin it was 12.8volts at each.

http://www.fabre.com.au/ I got mine from here.

I got a 4 door R33 - there handy aswell _ shame the seats dont fold down though!!!

Does anybody have a pic of the setup in the boot on an R33? Just wondering where to install the realy and where to tap into the existing wiring for the relay trigger. A car horn relay is good enough is it? How much is that? I have a 30A fuse and some 12 gauge cable setup for my amp - I will probably use this. My amp is out of the car at the moment.. I think it is 12 gauge - should be well and truly thick enough just looking at it. Actually maybe its larger. The core is anout 3.5-4mm in diameter. It was pretty cheap but have a whole roll for other things awell

I wont get excessive fuel flow at idle will I - that heats up the pressure? I have standard R33 pump. SK was talking about other devices to stop this. Are they unnecessary?

If the relay fails closed you could get a potentially engine damaging event occuring right...Or you'll just get fuel cut? Only momentarilly lean?

Nice one Cubes. Thanks a lot. So I guess I will buy a relay, does it really matter how you mount it? Run an earth line to pump aswell you think? Do you think connect it straight to that battery terminals? Maybe I will do it before the tune so I don't risk getting there and it running out of fueling..

Can I wire it to the standard relay? Im an R33 so battery is in the boot. Do you use the original wiring to trigger the relay Thanks Cubes! I'm not going to strain my old pump am I?

What about in the case of an accident? Usually if you switch iginition off fuel pump will stop. Should you have to wire in so it is ignition switched? Did you do that Cubes? I guess you would have had to otherwise pump would be on all the time..Ill read the post agin later to see if it outlines this...

Do I need anything extra done? Just add a fuse I guess. Are there any side effects? Yeah might do it before the tune

Sydneykid - Is this direct wire worthwhile doing to a standard pump in an R33? Or could it burn it out quicker. I have an R33gtst that I'm waiting to get tuned with a few mods..hoping for about 190rwkw. If I do the mod after the tune could it stuff the tune? I wouldn't need any extra devices like what you were talking about would I?

I've sen 80 withoutit triggering engine light. I think it as to knock for a predetermined time - so a one off 80 or 100 may not trigger the light...

If the voltage reg is seperate on these alternators you may be able to just replace that part of it - could possibly be the same as on other units. Mine gives out 13.8v. 2 years - it should still be good. Take it back to that auto elec - I doubt he would expect it to be faulty after only 2 years!

both turbos are ball bearing I believe. R34 had a nylon compressor wheel for faster spool up..

Not normal. Check for fuel leaks or take it to a mechanic. I'm running 15W50 in it but 10w40 is fine. For the hotter months it wouldn't hurt to have a slightly higher viscosity. Depends on engine condition. Mine doesnt use oil with either viscosity. I run semi synthetic and change it every 4-5000kms. Some people say to run full synthetic but I'm not that hard on it and change oil often. I find $50-$60 for oil a bit excessive in a road car. I use $25-$30 oil. Castrol Magnatec was ok and I'm now on Shell Helix that is about 30 bucks