benl1981

whats a disco potato? A turbo? What type?hahah Dont Sr20 turbos have ceramic wheels aswell?

I know this may have been covered before. But anyway. Some guys get 190rwkw out of stock intercooler. I have an R34 GTT unit and full turbo back exhaust and running 10psi with Powerfc. Was wondering what people have found to be the max safe kw out of the R34 cooler and the intake temps at that level? Also Im hoping to get around 190rwkw at 10-11psi. The next safe step to say 220-230rwkw would require turbo upgrade running 14-15psi. Would it be ok to run stock injectors and fuel pressure regaulator? And should the AFM be ok almost at its limit I guess? I have a nissan patrol clutch so I guess that should be ok. Could I also get awayt with the R34 cooler? Any other things required for 220-230rwkw besides turbo upgrade?

Item: Panasonic Double Din Head Unit & Stacker Location: Sydney Item Condition: Good - however it may need a new plug or wiring to the stacker. Ocassionally it wouldn't recognise the stacker was connected. If I fiddled with the wires near the plug to stacker it would work fine. Also has a tape player, the single CD in the head unit doesnt seem to play - not sure if it needs to be switched from the stacker or something. It's a 12 CD stacker, however when I got it it only had 11 of the CD carrier pieces..so I guess it is a 11 CD stacker...hehe Also comes with Jap to Aussie band expander. Reason for Selling: Installing new deck Price and Payment Conditions: $65 ono Extra Info: Smart looking deck - gets a lot of comments. I haven't taken it out as yet so it will be ready in about a week or 2 if anyone is interested. Contact Details: Pm me

The sensors would be as old as the car, there is a chance they are not doing there job properly. Remember the stock ECU has the R&R protection mechanism which goes off AFM voltages (Iit uses knock levels aswell) so the knock sensors aren't the only safeguard. They might be fine - but I think you should wait tillyou can put it on the dyno for an hour to verify what you are thinking. $100-$200 might save you an engine. I know you plan to do it but don't fang it round till you get to do a tune. I assume better fuel pump would only make a difference if your old one was on the way out. Fuel pressure reg is made to control Rail pressure to a predetermined pressure.

What sort off knock values are you getting? Have you checked you base timing to see that it is at 15 deg BTDC - maybe it is less than that and that is why you aren't getting knock. Remember the knock value is only an estimate and you really should get it on the dyno with someone checking for knock with headphones and monitoring AFRs. I too got R&R at about 9-10psi - wasn't fun. I'm now on the base map of the PFC and no probs. If 13psi makes that much difference I want to get a better turbo so I could run 13-14psi reliably without fear of the turbo spitting it.

hey - did you have a wideband 02 sensor to check you weren't running it too lean? Did you take 10% out over the whole range of load points? If youre doing it over all the load points you don't need a SAFC - you could have just used a resistor for about 50c. Not recommended though. Good luck with it - were you getting R&R before? And if so at what boost level?

Ok - He will have to pull out enough voltage to stop R&R occuring. If this involves runing lean mictures then yes it would help. But usually the limit as to how much AFM voltage you can pull out is the timing that gets too far advanced. So you may compromise and have a slightly rich mixture to ensure detonation does not occur (i.e you can not pull out as much AFM voltage as you would like)., Read some of Sks threads they are very detailed on this matter. I dont think the FPR will give you the resolution you need for this job. It will be very half arsed to say the least.

So now you can see that you will only need the adjustable FPR when you have reached the limits of the stock fuels system. At 13psi you should be more worried about your turbo..stick to about 10-11psi..

Remember many gauges read 2psi difference and where R&R kicks in depends on intake mods and exhaust mods.

BW - What you are doing is the intended purpose of the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Quite different to what the original poster is wanting to use it for. You haven't got much choice with the auto...sounds like your plan should work quite well with some time on the dyno. SK or somwone else would know best..

Amen. He wants to use it for the wrong purpose. You use them to allow more fuel to pass through your injectors for a given pulse. This is presumably when you want to run higher boost and extra fuel pressure allows you to have fuel for that extra boost - or in a NA car that you turbo.

So what you are saying is you want to take out heaps of AFM signal via the SAFC and add the fuel in via the extra pressure? Then you are going to retard the timing a heap via the CAS. You dont need an adjustable fuel reg to do this!! Your better of sticking with standard fuel pressure and tuning with the SAFC and seeing iff this is ok. You are making it worse by bringing in the extra Fuel pressure. Just check it on the dyno. Your standard fuel system should handle up to around 200rwkw. You will only need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if you are leaning out. You will only find this out on the dyno!!!! or with a widesband sensor under load

It sort of relates. Fact is running more fuel pressure for you is the wrong way to do it!!! It will make your condition worse. There's not much to reference.

Did the rb25 have more knock on the base map? Just wondeirng whether mine is normal or not. I guess maybe 1 or 2 deg retarded at certain load points should fix it. I guess the base map is made for 100 octane fuel?

Yeah I think it gets to load point 15. I have set rev limit to 5500rpm till I get a tune. At times I can see Relatively high knock. .. Yesterday I saw 67 after giving it a hard time. I have never seen the engine light flash except once near when I hit the rev limit. I have the base timing at 15deg BTDC Otherwise knock usually stays below 40. Is this scenario normal? I'm only running 10psi so I doubt Id see 100% duty cycle - unless as you the PFC base map is very rich. Hoping a tune will help. You must be chewing a bit of petrol cubes if you are fanging it a bit? What knock have others seen on the base map ??

Yes you BK!! Why are you retuning? Due to the front mount? Did you have an R34 cooler b4? I thought I remember reading that you did... I'll be interested to see if there is much of a gain with the front mount at 10psi....i.e. in dyno reading. I guess the main gain will be when you high flow and run a bit more boost.

I found that an R34 gtt cooler was enough to put mine into rich and retard mode at 9psi. Previously with R33 cooler it was ok. I hnow have a PFC running 10psi and base map. I am up around 4.91v volts and injectors are at 84%. I'm getting a tune soon though and hope the injector duty cycle will drop a little...as apparently they run rich on the base map. Its not blowing out much smoke though at full throttle. BK - what boost are you running??

I think its been said the the rich and retard coccurs when there is a sudden change in the AFM levels (i.e quicker increase than it thinks there should be)

Yes you could retard the base timing but then you are retarded at areas that could do with some more advance. First of all you need the SAFC to change the AFM values so you dont go into rich and retard mode. If you add more fuel pressure than normal you are making it a lot harder for yourself as you will have to retard the timing further = loss of response!!

Umm - problem people have is that when they lean of the mixtures via the SAFC that it pulls it to another load point that adds more ignition advance. If you richen the mixture up by more fuel pressure you are in fact making the case worse!! Like someone else has said. You don't need more fuel pressure unless you have a fuel problem already - they usually run very rich!!

anyone?

Dont need them but thats a good price for someone who has clapped out ones... Its about 70 bucks each new for just the bushes..then you have to get someone to press out the old ones and in with the newies. These would take 10-15 mins to swap over!!!

bump

You dont want it not fitting right and either contacting the turbine wheel or being too big around the wheel leading to escaped gases without the full effect spinning up the wheel. Thats if the wheels are different sizes

You don't have to get it balanced after you swap housings - i..e you should have to remove the turbone wheels or anuthing.....I doubt it would bolt on though.