benl1981

Miller - how much was yours to get rebuilt. $2000 for a highflow is a lot of money!!! WIsh there was a more intermediate step....

is the R33 turbo just as bad as the R34? I didnt think the nylon compressor wheel was a weakness

Is the R34 turbo weaker than the R33? I was going to get my dyno tune (on my 33) done at 12psi so atleast the tune would be good up to there..then back it off to 10psi for most use. Maybe I'll go back to 10psi then too be safe as maybe on the dyno at 12psi the turbo will blow up

Well thats a point. The stock one spikes 2psi at 4400rpm anyway!! heheheh

1 psi isnt that bad. I reckon he is hitting the ECU R&R

If you look at the sensor check in the PFC - the 02 voltage is all the af gauge works off

on decel - i.e as soon as you take your foot off accelerator fuel is cut. i.e no injectors are pulsed Therefore 02 sensor voltage = 0 i.e. completely lean - i.e. there is no problem. Cars use this to pass emissions and increase fuel efficiency

If it jolts then you are hitting ECU rich and retard i.e. if you have stock ECU. Wind back the boost 1 -2 psi and see how you go. A 1psi spike isnt going to cause the car to jolt

I haven't heard of them being a weakpoint - wouldn't imagine any less than 300 - 350rwkw - somebody with experience may be able to help

Ive heard of many problems getting custom ones made up. I'd retain as much of the factory one as you can and get one end modified etc. You need to get it balanced.

a 1 psi spike I wouldnt think is a real concern... what are you worried about?

Where abouts were the lines leaking??? in the engine bay or closer to the tank? could you ever see fuel dripping on the ground.

nelleh- if your R33 one is not just the engine manual then it would be great to get it up there!! thanks

does that turbo bolt up to same dump pipe - just wondering if it is similar to a HKS2530 where you can use your old dump and manifold etc..

I found the smae problem. My car had the stock BOV and another HKS one along with an exposed POD. After removing the atmo venting BOV I found response when you change gears was a lot better - it would jump quicker once going into the next gear that is. The sound was still there though. I bought a stock snorkel and air filter box so now it is pretty quiet. But if you want a BOV noise you can just put on a POD and even the stock BOV makes quite a loud psht as you can hear it through the exposed POD...if thats what does it for you

Anybody know if another pocket fits. $37 for a pocket is a lot!!!

Yes - I would find on 1/2 throttle my car would be quicker - especially running 10psi boost. Powerfc has fixed this..hoping to gain some more average power after a tune. The stock computer is crap for anything above stock boost. Unlike other cars that are ok if you turn up the boost a bit.

Could be coils but I think it may be the std ECU seeing too much airflow. I found this when running 9-10psi and R34 intercooler. Actually the R34 intercooler is what sort of set it off. I think at the same boost the air flow is a bit higher. Also the ramp up in airflow is what the stock ecu sees s a problem and richens up the mixture and retards the timing. I thought it was coils but it wasn't. The powerfc with even just the base map runs a lot better - no hesitation now. It would be good if you could borrow a mates PFC to see if it helps. If found asyou rev out sometimes it would start going really slowly from 5k rpm on - in 4th gear a couple of times up[ a hill I hit what felt more severe than a rev limit...this was at 3.5k as boost came on. Feels really severe as if you have broken something and instantly take your foot off accelerator If your after cheap fix then get a SAFC or jaycar fuel adjuster but the PFC is much better.

Have you looked theought the PFC settings to check if it hasn't lost the tune or something. Could be a bad batch of fuel I guess... Id be going back to where you got the tune. Maybe he didnt tighten upo the adjustable cam gear preoperly and thats lost its position? Bit off topic but I saw the check engine light flash once but the peak knock was only 39. I did hit rev limit - does that trigger the light? I didnt max anything else out like AFM or anything.. I once saw 94 but it didn't trigger the check engine. Somebody said it may have been a one off knock I wouldnt boost much at all till you get it looked at - the sooner the better..

You would need the hubs aswell unless non abs hubs are the same but there is a spot for the sensor in the hub.

I have some good condition series 1 coils that I know work properly. PM me if you are interested...

Has anyone found the R33 manual that is for the chassis and other parts - i.e. NOT the engine manual.!!! I really would like that...

nice cars non turbo or turbo. Theyre different to other cars on the street so you should be happy. I mainly bought mine due to the performance - (it is a turbo) but I'm a bit older now - as a young fella in first 3-5 years of driving a turbo wouldnt be a good thing...too much temptation. In some ways you are right - atleast with a NA you dont try and get the most out of it all the time. With turbos youre either playing with boost or doing mods etc..

I have in an engine manual somewhere the reported figures and consumption of the different models. There is bugger all difference. To take off at a similar pace in both cars will see relatively the same consumption - within 5 -10%. There is a lot of variation between the cars now anyway. Cars are over 10 years old - engine wear, oxygen sensor (and other sensors) condition plays a major role. PS I dont think by changing gears at 3000rpm the GTS25 will pull away - in 3rd gear Im making boost moderate boost by 2000rpm. Yes maybe from the factory the non turbo is 5-10% better in fuel consumption due to less weight - no turbo, smaller brakes etc, compression (not much different) What I'm getting at is the difference is next to nil unless you start driving it a bit harder - which a lot of people do. No need for anymore discussion I think..

If you're not on boost and in closed loop operation fuel economy will be the same as a non turbo besides for the fact that maybe the turbo models of the same car have lower compression which = less efficiency. But not much!! R33s have fairly high comp for a turbo motor. THink about it - same size engine - same design.. to make it go a certain speed you squeeze the throttle, depending on how much air goes through determines how much fuel is delivered. Most of the time at cruise I am using about 4-5% injector duty cycle (A non turbo may have slightly smaller injectors so may be it would be 6%) . Its only when you put your foot down that they guzzle the petrol. A better ECU can help you lean out the mixtures a bit = more power = better fuel consumption. Why do you think a lot of the manufacturers are going to turbo - can run small motors that return good cruise and idle fuel consumption but the turbo helps produce the power when power is requested. Turbo technology is better now along with fuel injection and engine management..meaning that they can control fuel consumption a lot better than with early turbos.