benl1981

I guess that's true about 2nd hand HKS - but atleast you don't stand the same chance of the wheel flying off. Shaft play can help give an indication If 2nd hand HKS it would be nice to see a receipt or something - agreed if you spend that much on something 2nd hand it is a little iffy.

Dont pay that much!! Wait for one on the forums if you can. About $400 max would be the no. Otherwise get a highflow for $2k..maybe ring up a turbo rebuilder..if you want just the same as stock but with a steel wheel on the exhaust you amy be able to get it a bit cheaper..

turbos should get close to same economy as N/A when not on the hammer. That's why a lot of cars are running turbos with the higher fuel prices.

bear in mind if you get a 2nd hand one it could do the same thing yours did within 6 months. HKS 2530 can be had for about 1200-1500 second hand. You only have to have water lines and oil lines modified slightly. You could sell your blow turbo to someone for probably 100 bucks which will cover the water lines and oil lines. Otherwise get yours rebuilt. I wouldn't spend much more than 300 for a 2nd hand stocker due to the condition being a bit unknown

anyone

If your on p plates just wait a few years - sell your N/A and buy a turbo model. You can wait!! Might be good for you. I learnt on much slower cars than even a N/A skyline. Instead of looking for performance I learnt how to work on cars, it has proved quite useful.

why would you go against powerfc - from what I see it does everything you want it to at a reasonable price.

Just wondering if there are any trusworthy engine builders that you would trust to provide a rb30e short motor. I read in the threads most people rebuild the Rb30 bottom end by themselves. If you could get a recod bottom end for about $700 it would save the hassle of acquirring a good condition block with reasonable pistons and putting new rings and bearings...which would cost about the same. Just curious for down the track. Cheers

Rebuild will be a lot more expensive. 2nd hand import with warranty like duncan said would be better. With the warranty - if you get a dud engine do they reimburse you for the labour?

Compressor wheels I think are aluminium or steel on most R33s..newer R33 series 2 are plastic. Its the exhaust wheel that is ceramic.

A 4 yr old cat shouldnt bee too bad. If it was a high flow 3" provided and you haven't got huge mods I wouldn't think this would be much of a restriction. If you're worried take it off and see if you can see through it. You can kind of tell if it looks restrictive...you won't be able to see through the other side. Actually the term high flow is a bit of a rort. I't more about the body size. A 3" high flow is usually just a slightly bigger body and flanges.

The tuner where I'm getting my car done at on Saturday apparently mainly uses the airflow table to tune the car - he uses the FC datalogit. Apparently there are usually only a few ignition points he has to fix up but generally pretty good. He is the tuner that Sydney kid uses so I assume he is good ill ask him if it would be ok to tune the light load areas (igntion) when driving and monitoring the knock

Maybe Nissan is being cautious.

Changing the airflow tables - doesnt that affect the AFR or are they load points that are always in closed loop?

Hey Robo - do you have standard internals?? Thats a good time!! Many mods?

So Sk - do you agree with the way Paul R33 is doing his light load ignition tuning. So you could have upwards of 50 deg BTDC at some light load conditions? I know the knock sensors aren't that accurate but this light load condition tuning would take ages to get right on the dyno..

Would it be as responsive as the stock turbo? Or more responsive? Would it have the same top end as the stocky or less? It went for a pretty cheap price - was considering it myself. Wouldn't you make close to 200rwkw at 5000rpm on the stocker? It's good if you dont have to worry about the turbine wheel going for a wander to look for the cat..

Wanting to know off people that are in the know - Is there a point at which you can run too much advance and loose power/fuel economy? 51 deg is a lot of advance

be careful if you have a newer version PFC - my Powerfc is v2.32a and Ive been waiting 3-4 weeks for them to finish writing the software for this. Been so keen to get the tune done but still waiting...

I think neither the R33 or R34 will bolt straight up. I put an R34 cooler on my r33 - that is a straight bolt up. One of the fittings faces a different way on the R32 one. Not too much work to get it on I think. If he does it tell him to get an R34 one. Probably big enough for a mild rb20det.

How about on the R33 gtst - does it replace stock solenoid? If it does then the max boost you could get would be about 13-14psi right? Unless you reroute the lines like you do with the jaycar EBC

Ask the forum member if he will take it back. After all he did say it was an R34 turbs. R33 turbo is only worth 300-450 so atleast he should give you 200 back or more. You should really return it and get your money back

Not quite sure if I get it.. The car stays straight on the road just the wheel is off centre. If I roatate the wheel one tooth or so to get this in the centred position then I shouldn't really need the tie rods adjusted right? Where is the sensor..At the steering wheel?

Hi Paul - I too would like to know if that method of advancign the light load areas is valid. I find I can advance about +6 deg on the base map at low load before I get knock over 15...at low load of course..

I had some crappy tyres that were fairly worn - although they looked ok definately pulled hugely to the left. Other wheels and tyres solved this.