benl1981

Thanks Duncan. Although why would I then need to realign the tie rods if I got the steering wheel centred when I'm going straight ahead?

So what are you thinking Dunan - rotate the wheel? There is a snesor near the steering wheel right? Is there one down on the front rack aswell?? Thanks

2-3 hours is what I've been quoted. The PFC comes with a base map which is pretty good. I've been driving round on it for about a month. Cold start isn't too bad either. Idles a bit low sometimes on relatively cold start.. but a apparently you are meant to let the car idle for 20 minutes when you first install it and put the aircon on etc (which I didn't do) I'd be worried about my car on the dyno for 5-6 hours..bit of overkill in most applications. Go to somewhere that can tune by laptop - that will cut tuning costs in half..

Hey 3 Lit3 - Do you have the R33 manual for the chassis etc.. I only have the engine manual, was trying hard to find the R33 one when I repalced a front wheel bearing..found an R34 one in jap which helped a bit but R33 body/chassis and other components manual would be nice

No I'm not sure if it's correct. I know someone has taken it off before as you can see the nut has been undone at some stage.. Someone mentioned something about a high spot on centre... How do I make sure I get theis right? Even a wheel alignement place won't really know..If the steering wheel is one or 2 teeth out on the spline theyll probably just adjust the tie rods to make it centre the wheel..then the high spot wont be in the right spot. Should I measure the distance to the thread on the tie rod myself...

hahha. Yeah I should, I'm a bit unfit and weak!!. You don't think it will smash the lock apart - I'll give it a go maybe. I've got a long breaker bar on it though. You still think the lock is safe.. Thanks

Yeah - I'll spray some wd40 style stuff on it...proably better than vas - for this anyway. I got my brother to hold it but wasnt doing the best job - had big breaker bar but would turn wheel before it undid nut

Just trying to realign my steering wheel so it is sitting straight when I'm going straight... How do I undo the biggish centre nut. I didn't want to lock the steering to do it as I think I could break the lock mechanism with the torque required?? I had a big breaker bar and got someone to hold the steering wheel firmly and try and turn it clockwise while I went anti clockwise... No good - it didnt' budge. Any good ideas?? Is the lock mechanism strong enough to not break?? Thanks

Just trying to realign my steering wheel so it is sitting straight when I'm going straight... How do I undo the biggish centre nut. I didn't want to lock the steering to do it as I think I could break the lock mechanism with the torque required?? I had a big breaker bar and got someone to hold the steering wheel firmly and try and turn it clockwise while I went anti clockwise... No good - it didnt' budge. Any good ideas?? Is the lock mechanism strong enough to not break?? Thanks

Just looking for a good set - I want to be sure that they are ok. I think new ones (KYB) are about $100 each. Probably pay about 100 for the pair. Better if they come with springs too. Thanks

Bugger about it not starting. Very hard to find it then. Sounds like it may be something pretty bad then. Do you or him know a mechanic that can get out there...

Do you think before the tune then I should make sure it is at 15 BTDC at idle.?? I have a 2.5, have to check how easy it drps out from closed loop. It comes on to boost fairly quickly though..

My Hicas light comes on aswell like what Duncan was saying about after a while on the highway.. I have stock steering wheel - but for some reason when you line up the car to go straight the steering wheel is about 5-10 deg off being straight. SHould I take wheel off and rotate?? Is it possible with the stock wheel? Or should I be getting a wheel alignemnt. A mechanic thought I needed a new sensor - but the wheel is definately off centre so maybe should fix that first??

I just find that mine stays in closed loop till a bit of boost is developed. Maybe if you hit half throttle or so at 2000rpm it will go to open loop without any boost present. It idles quite erratically - might see what the tuner thinks..maybe it needs a little cold start enrichment (Is this seperate to inj correction) Just a question - It says 15deg timing on PFC. ..The PFC doent know what you have it adjusted to on the CAS does it..or has it made corrections for the CAS position. I have about 17-18BTDC on the CAS (according to timing light)..Even though it says 15deg on powerfc do I actually have 17 ?? Thanks

I had an annoying noise (rumble) thought it was a front wheel bearing as it gave a little vibration through shock tower when spun. Replaced wheel bearing myself (not a fun job) Turned out being the tail shaft had taken a hit from the exhaust (common issue as large exhausts hang low and right under tailshaft... 2nd hand tailshaft - all is good - get someone to look at it that knows - saves hassle

"It wont help you do magic things with your car "ie diagnose HICAS" - are you serious?" Gee - sorry - yes I was serious. There is a whole lot of extra things you can access with the datalogit so it seems (like logging suspension travel I think someone said). The standard ECU has a diagnosis function so I thought the PFC may have one somewhere hidden.

I thought yards were held by law to give 3 months warranty??!! Maybe like you say he ent over the kays?! Also check around sump aswell. Maybe wipe all the oil off then run the car for a minute or so and see if you can see the origin of the leak...

Hey cubes if it is off boost then shouldn't it be at 14.7:1 anyway "Tune it to 14.7:1 off boost if you are after economy." Another thing. My stone cold idle is fine - but I find that after a day at work I come back and water temp is 25 deg C and the idle hunts for about the first 20 seconds... Wierd. It did it with the R33 PFC values and the R34 ones. On stock ECU it didnt

I just drive softly straight away - no idle at all. Thanks for that Cubes

Hey Cubes put the numbers in today. I found that my car goes into closed loop within about 2 minutes anyway - so these corrections are only for when you are in open loop and before car gets to closed loop. I get up to about 70 deg C within 3-4 mins of driving. ABout 5 mins before it reaches 80deg C

So what the engine doesn't run in closed loop till it gets to around 80deg C? I guess it must be about 5 mins or so till it goes to closed loop then. Have to have a check in the morning. I'll look at the 02 sensor readout I have noticed a smell of fuel in the morning. I have looked at the table in the PFC hcontroller and thought the values were high. Thanks for the numbers I guess the stock R33 ecu water temp correction values would be similar to the PFC R33 ones? Thanks Cubes

But doesn't it get into closed loop within about 2 -3 minutes anyway so closed loop running when reasonably cold will be the same? I think I am only going to get a tune for 2-3 hours. Cold start correction the tuner may go off other R33s he's done I'm guessing. I'm going to the guy that tunes Sydneykids cars - the tuner seems pretty knowledgeable. Are you talking about R34 Powerfc setings? Cheers.

Can't hear any vacuum leaks. I have ran some injector cleaner through (Redex). Starts easily in the morning, no splutter at all. I dont sthink it warrants ripping out injectors to clean at the moment - I am hardly using any throttle application to go anywhere so it's not as if they are a problem I think, no hesitation or missing. If they are flowing a little less than they shoul this would = less fuel - better consumption..unless leaky injector which I don't think I have. This fuel econmy was on stock ecu and boost but I now have PFC and getting it tuned Saturday. I think it is using a bit more with PFC but I am running 10psi and tested it a little more lately (Not reving past 5500rpm though - still on base map)..Knock is below 32. My fuel economy isn't as bad as what some report but still I reckon should be 10-20% better. On the highway I had aircon on for quite a bit - most of the time I have it off though. I drive to work for about 15km - half of which is no traffic lights constant 80km/h and I get about 12L/100km. On a highway trip it is about 11L/100km Thanks for the ideas.. Any others??

Yeah done most of those. I have new high flow panel in stock box, Ignition timing is 17 deg BTDC (15 is in manual), spark plugs new about 3000km ago, oil 2000kms old (10w 40 I think), 02 sensor is old I think, exhaust full turbo back 3", engine temp always in middle gets up there quik enough to not warrant repalcing thermostat. Fuel filter about 20 000km old. If a fuel filter is partially blocked though I would think it may hesitate or lean out on boost. At stock boost it was going to 10:1 AFR. Also a blocked fuel filter would mean that there would be less flow through injectors right if causes pressure to drop?

Take off the intake pipe and see if there is a shit load of oil in there, hopefully there is meaning turbo seal. If there is heaps of oil around the throttle flap then maybe turbo seal. Doesn't explain all oil on engine though - unless it is being pushed out near rubber hole on intake etc.. See where the leak is occuring from - if near the block and head join then yeah head gasket!! Sounds horrendous