benl1981

Thanks RB - yeah at 2500rpm it was fairly quick at oscillating back and forth. I guess I'll see on the dyno if it is actually holding 14.7 AFR though. Hey RB acan you check my last post in the thread Crap fuel economy (in Gerneral Maintenance area)..thought you may know.

What I'm curious about is why there is much difference between cars... Assume you don't gun it much at all, it should be in closed loop say 80% of the time.. Now the the 02 sensor should be doing most of the work and the ECU adjust fuelling to get to 14.7 AFR. So a slighlty misreading AFM shouldnt affect fuel economy. It is then down to throttle application (If engine is worn takes more throttle to maintain same speed), wheel alignment, tyres but thats about it. I used stuff all throttle and on the highway still only got 11L/100k!!! What is the go!!

It was wierd - I thought I saw another 4.85v but this time it was lower like in the 65% range injector duty cycle. Maybe I didnt read it off right. Looking forward to the tune. On the base map knock doesnt seem to go above about 30 except for that freak 94. Is this normal for base map? Anybody ewlse find the tune makesa heap of difference compared with base map?

10psi was pushing it on mine - with upgrades like exhaust andIntercooler at 10psi I had trouble. With PFC no trouble

Can the FC Datalogit find a fault with the HICAS. My R33 has the light come on quite often!! Do I have to put back the stock ecu to troubleshoot it??? I don't really want to be bothered, I'm getting it datalogit tuned on Sat!!

It also depends on the fastness of these oscillations

Ive been looking at the handcontroller to ascertain what is the best rpm to cruise at. It seems it is better for economy to get into the higher gears early (assuming not up a big hill), the injector duty cyle is for example at 75km/h in 4th gear 6% but then put it in 5th and it's about 4.5%. As soon as you take your foot of the accelerator while in gear 0 fuel is used! I'm wondering why my economy isn't good. About 11L/100km on the highway and about 12L/100 doing 10-20km journeys. R33gtst. The engine stays in closed loop for quite a while!

I know this may have been covered b4 but what is a quick list of things you need to do to get 250rwkw out of R33/34 PFC front mount 3" zorst GCG high flow injectors Z32 AFM exhaust cam gear Is that it?

Thats great! I've been waiting for the tuner to update the Datalogit software for almost 3 weeks(not his fault - it's the software company)! I'm Getting edgy now... My powerfc was second hand but it's still so many version newer

Isn't it a bit risky to rev it out hard on the base map? Maybe it was a one off knock and thats why the check engine didnt flash. ..like you said Is there any way to check if the "check engine" flash is working? How much quicker do you think the car will feel after a tune? It feels a bit better now..compared to std ecu. Cheers Ben

Thanks mate - very informative:) . Not reving it too much till I get the tune. Taken a couple of degrees out of the timing each time I start up on the powerfc as I saw 94 knock once but I dont know if the check engine showed..Is it only a quick flash?? Car does drive a lot better on the PFC even base map compared to std ecu. The std ecu is pretty weak as you ad mods

My car is an R33 gtst with 9-10psi, r34 cooler and turbo back 3" exhaust. Cruising last night and a hard run in 2nd (only to 5500rpm though) saw a peak on the PFC hand controller of 4.85v and injector duty cycle peak of 77% Is this normal - I havent had it tuned yet so it is on the base map. I thought 4.85v was pretty high (especially in 2nd gear not going to 7000rpm)!! injectors pretty low... I thought they would be near maxing out at close to 5v? What do people think? Thanks

Yeah - but I already have the powerfc so I can see whatit is doing. Thanks for the idea. I think the sensor is quick enough to react - at 2500 rpm its cycles quite quickly.

My fuel economy on the highway is still at about 11L/100km for an R33 gtst with very smooth and small throttle openings - i.e not good for a 2.L 6 cylinder (A 3.8 commo can do better) I have hooked up a Powerfc and you can do a sensor check - at idle the 02 sensor varies between 0.1v and 0.9 v like it should However, it seems to stay on say for example 0.85v for about 1 second or so then drop to the 0.1v or thereabouts. I was reading on the web and found that it should be about 300ms for a healthy sensor... Anybody that has put a new one in noticed a change in reaction time and fuel economy? Sorry the other thread is getting huge. This thread may help people to determine if it is worth replacing as I read a lot of people replacing with no change Seems like because ours are heated they generally have a longer life... o2 sensor info

shanef - what boost were you running? Sounds scary. Are standard turbos time bombs

freer exhaust won't give you 10-12psi. I've seen on 2 r33s before and after exhaust upgrade they still run the same boost (within 1psi). If the solenoid wasn't there then they would run exactly the same boost. Because the solenoid is there it bypasses the same amount of air so you may get a very small boost increase but not much ! I noticed fitting an R34 intercooler gave a 0.5psi increase exhaust about the same What people dont understand is that it is a pressure actuator and will do what it can to maintain 5psi (solenoid open allows it to hold 7-8psi as it bypasses air that would otherwise go to the actuator) Somebody mentioned that freeing the exhaust actually helps it control boost as the wastegate is no longer choked up by the crap standard dump pipe. Unlucky about the turbo

What part of the turbo let go? Are you saying the nylon side let go...it's usually the ceramic turbine wheel that I hear about. I thought a lot of turbos have given up on rb25s and no ceramic dust has caused problems.

Are you running standard cat back siks? I wouldnt mind putting a stock cat back on mine so it doest hang as low and is a bit quieter. Not that mine is really loud though.. its a kakimoto cat back. Would I lose much putting standard cat back on? I have 3" dump/front/3"cat The engine is under huge vacuum on decel - not sure if this contributes to the louder noise. Its more noticeable below 3500rpm. My exhaust gets quieter as you rev it

My car is quite a bit louder as soon as I lift of the throttle. The smallest throtttle brings the injectors on again and it is quieter. Just wondering if the spark plugs still spark while on fuel cut....I didnt think it would be good as it is running lean - i.e. no fuel - but I guess there is no load.. Since I found out this if I'm coming up to a set of red lights I'll just leave it in gear and hit brake... I used to sometimes knock it into neutral, this would be using more fuel and also there is no engine braking.

Anyone done this?

If you get the newest version of FC daalogit it will work on old versions.. My powerfc is a much newer one - I've been waiting a couple of weeks for the tuner to get the updated software.. P.s. When using the FC datalogit do you just use the Connection where the hand controller connects. I've made an extension cord for that so I dont have to keep taking it on and off the mounting position. What is the other non round connection on the powerfc for? Cheers

Just took it for a run - few runs in 2nd saw a max of about 3.2v - about 6.2 psi. Maybe in 3rd might have seen a bit more..had my brother in the car holding the multimeter on the seat bolt ffor the earth etc.. This is at stock boost. So I'm now thinking the gauge that read the low figure was closest to being correct We'll see once it goes on the dyno and they connect their gauge up.

I have tested 2 different gauges on my car - one reads 10psi the other 12psi. Put boost to stock - one said 7.5psi the other 9.5psi. I want to use the standard MAP sensor to check boost to give 3rd opinion. I piggybacked one of the wires and atmospheric pressure reads 2.25v. Is this normal for this sensor. I'm going to run a wire through to cabin and see the peak reading I get on the multimeter. So 14.7 psi of boost would be 4.5v. Just wanted to know if the baseline 2.25v seems right (i.e. checking that my sensor is ok) 1psi = 0.153 v atm + 8psi = 2.25v + 1.22v = 3.47v Anybody else done this. I don't trust the granulations on the stock gauge - rather check the actual ouput from the pressure transducer

Since fitting a PFC I notice that the injectors don't pulse on decel. Or as soon as the throttle is closed (assuming still ingear). This is to save fuel, just wondering how the ignition still carries on. The engine keeps going because of the inertia etc but I assume the spark plugs still spark but there is nothing to ignite but the engine keeps going I guess. Cheers

theres group buys for 960 new with hand controller