benl1981

get a tune on your r33 - I reckon you can get them close to 10L/100

I replaced bearings and timing belt and mine still is a bit rattly at say 1500rpm. Only in 2nd and 3rd gear though. SOme people have said skylines and silvias are a bit like this naturally. I'm not so sure but doesn't seem to be too bad so I'm not that worried..

Anybody know - is it M18?? and what is the thread pitch (1.5mm?) Thanks

clean your afm for a start possibly - using either contact cleaner or brake cleaner

I think that is about normal...I thought mine was really loose but after showing a few people they didnt think it was that bad. All depends how much force you put on it to deflect it that much. I replaced mine anyway - it is a decent job though

I ran mine on 95 for a while though you should wind back the Crank angle sensor to retard timing a little or get a powerfc and tune it to suit.

Fair enough - I can certainly feel the stock ECU playing games around this RPM, hoping to tune it out with the DFA. Would be good to drive a SAFC tuned car and a powerfc cars with equal mods to see the actual difference. I know people here seem to say they are streets apart...

Ed - I doubt you are going to advance the timing that much over the stock ECU. Advanced timing is the only thing that will give you better response. If you advance too much you get pinging...

ok ok. Maybe the PFC is a lot better but I think with minimal mods it may be a bit of overkill, up to the individual. I really don’t think my car needs to be much faster for the street though. I reckon with the SAFC or DFA I will manage about a 13.8sec quarter. About as quick as a boxster right?

Nice... a few more questions..sorry about this.. 1. You did final trimming in the car. Was that with the car at idle hovering around 1v or something? 2. WIth regard to saving the engine: How does it go back to idle - you have throttle flap fully open at full throttle does it cut the ignition? 3. How did you get the wires through the back of the glovebox? Did you drill a hole somewhere? I see what you mean there is not much room around anywhere underneath on that side 4. For the +12v supply to Jaycar device did you use a constant power 12v?? or one that is IGN switched? Just wondering if it needs onstant 12v for memory. I know you play with the trimpot so the realy cuts in at around 13.8 v but not sure if it uses the 12v constant for memory...What is best to use - IGN or constant..??

True it is a compromise - but that dip in the power curve mightn't be fixed by PFC either. On a track day take 2 deg out with the CAS to be safe.. I know PFC is better but not sure how much for slightly modded cars..

Hey there. Does he tune at mona vale aswell? How did they check for pinging, with stethoscope style device? Has he done many R33s before?? Still wondering where to get my car tuned..either UAS, Premier (Mt Druitt) or Tweak it Nice result mate!!

Hey SK 1. Is it essential you get the calibration of the DFA 100%, or is it ok if it i within 0.1-0.2 volts. Just that test pot isnt real good. 2. Are there any safeguards in the case of a missing AFM signal i.e. say for instance the ouput wire to AFM from jaycar device comes out. Would the engine die or would it come up as a fault code and save engine? 3. Did you leave the DFA in Fine mode (you have to put the link in for coarse)

Ok - look at this graph I ripped from the stagea section. THis guy used the SAFC style device to tune (A jaycar version) - he was able to get good AFR the whole way. If you were using PFC you wouldn't get that much better AFR control and the only real other thing governing power is the Ignition timing which I would imagine is close to as far advanced as you would want.... Where could PFC benefit you here then???

Yeah I had to rotate the adjustment screw on the board to get it to light up. Other than that it wroked straight up. I did solder those bits. Just a dab on each of them. Make sure the DFA or boost control is powered up and that screw on the hand controller board is rotated. Hope it works out!! I found them both a bit fiddly, was good to get them working - will be even better when installed and tuned hopefully...

If you are on the boarderline of detonation and at 12:1 AFR for the whole rev band then you won't gain by having a PFC. Obviously there are less compromises with the PFC to ensure that you can advance the timing enough and lean out the mixxtures to avoid detonation. Sometimes you wont get it perfect with the SAFC but I think in some cases average power would be similar

The Powerfc is obviously better but a SAFC style device shouldnt loose out too much to a PFC if relatively stock right. Assuming You are close to detonation and you are able to get almost 12:1 AFR then there is no reason why a PFC will make more average power. I find that even on stock boost with exhaust and R34 intercooler I can sometimes feel the ECU cutting the timing especially in cold weather when the air is more dense. Installing a jaycar fuel adjuster to see if it helps. Sometime I think the mods can make it slower if you dont adjust the Airflow readings or reprogram ECU/new ECU

I was thinking of mounting it above where the passengers legs would be (underneath near where the glove box is ) have to have a look and see though. I'll have a look at the loop but didnt think th one mine was big enough.. It's easy going round the No 1 wire though as I am running the car without the plastic cover. So it is essential you get the calibration of the DFA 100%, or is it ok if it i within 0.1-0.2 volts. Just that test pot isnt real good. Are there any safeguards in the case of a missing AFM signal i.e. say for instance the ouput wire to AFM from jaycar device comes out. Would the engine die or would it come up as a fault code and save engine?

The piece that hooks around the loop (i..e the part of the timing light equipment) doesnt fit inside that small loop. Going over the wire to No.1 cylinder should be the same right? Why did you pick the glove box to install? What about somewhere underneath near the ECU. If I want to heat up the 4MHz device now should I remove all the clip in processor bits? Or not necessary. Thanks again

Thanks Gary. Sounds good. might set it back to 15deg then. Just to make sure, I have the centre plastic piece removed so all the coil packs are exposed. I am using the wire going to No. 1 coil pack to get the reading for the timing light and unclipping the TPS. Will this give the correct reading? I can’t really use the loop at the back.

A feww things: 1. The solder doesn't go on the 4MHz device the best - did you find that? 2. I find the test pot voltage fluctuates about 0.1 volt. Is this normal? Just pulled the kick panel off to have a look at the ECU. I think the R33 pinot must be different to the stagea one. I think AFM is pin 27, not sure about 12volt + pin. You want a non switched 12v right?? WIll be nice if I am able to gain 10-20% power 3. Also - what should I set base timing to before the dyno tune. I think I am at about 17-18 deg BTDC. Manual says 15deg BTDC. Should I put it back to factory spec?? 4. Should the link be in to put it in coarse mode or leave it out for fine? THis is in the DFA

cool - thanks. I did that anyway. Just started calibrating it. The trimpot I found hard to regulate the voltage. I was able to get 5.1V for the input then at the test point I just matched it pretty close...and when doing the outlet adjusted to get about 5.1v. SOund ok you think? Do you guys use the fine or coarse mode?? I think for course mode you have to put the link in.. Thanks

Quick question guys. Just about to finish the DFA kit - there is a 4Mhz component that looks like a link from the D25 socket should be soldered to it..is this correct? Here is a phot from someone else here that I just copied and drew on to show the piece Thanks

If not confident building it you can get SAFCs very cheap 2nd hand (about 250-350)

they should have provided that in the pack...min came with a thick lot of photocopies...the DFA construction info was buried in there in the middle I think