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benl1981

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Everything posted by benl1981

  1. Anybody found a single din pocket that can be ripped from a older nissan at a pick a part - close to 40 bucks seems a bit high...
  2. Yep - R33s seem to cut the fun very quickly - my car is quicker on part throttle than full throttle at about 9psi. The ECU is retarding the timing and possibly throwing too much fiuel in Next step wither PFC or DFA...
  3. I think I calculted it out based on 3000rpm at 110km/h that 5th gear at 7000rpm should see 256 km/h
  4. Sambo - that was unfortunate , from when you go the car was it like that? Did it blow a bit of smoke. Mine doesn't use anything in 6000kms so I guess mine is ok ...
  5. I think the pump ending in U26 was the correct one for Series 1. The VL pump didnt suit. My pump was in fine condition so Didnt bother replacing. I think the U26 pump was about $125 trade from nissan. I replacesd belt myself so if the pump does go before next belt change not a huge deal. The one in it now could last longer than a new one you fit, thats if you get a dud.. Cheers
  6. 93 GTST 100k kms Hey Sambo - Did your motor give up or just upgrade time?
  7. Cooper ones are good and when on special are only about 3-$4 from autobarn. Valvoline ones arent that good, there's an arrticle on the net somewhere that a guy did, he cut apart a whole heap of filters and compared them for 5000km etc ! I cut apart a cooper once to see the quality of construction - it seemed pretty good! Nissan one are about $8-$10 I think.
  8. Try ACL http://www.acl.com.au/ They have the preferred stockists listed aswell
  9. is it hard to replace the idler stud? How do you get it out? I didnt bother with mine nor the tensioner bolt. Went to nissan and they said it would be a hassle to get it. Also showed the bolt to the service team there and they said they would never replace a bolt like that. The bolt is only going to snap if the bearing siezes etc which puts all the load on the bolt...something eventually has to give..new or old stud I think would be the same issue!
  10. good practice to do a belt change on an import even if it has 40k kms. Chances are odo been wound back. At least take the top timing belt cover off to have a look at the condition and how much slack.
  11. series 1 have a seperate ignitor module. Wheres series 2 the ignitor is built into each coil.
  12. How much better fuel economy could you expect? Are those load points that you would see on the freeway etc? I guess it is all open loop that you tune for. Im wondering if you're light on the throttle most of the time would you see much of a fuel consumption gain from this mod? Responsiveness is nice!
  13. Look like the same as the R33gtst part numbers. I got them for under $80 the pair. In Sydney though....
  14. Yeah I'm definately getting a savage R&R in my R33 at around 10psi!! Even at stock boost levels I can feel a the power fluctuate a little if the ambient is quite low. The sooner I get a PFC or one of these the better. Before I upgraded to the R34 intercooler I didnt have the savage R&R at 10psi, maybe the extra aiflow from the new cooler is a contributing factor. Doesn't appear to be any boost leaking and the new intercooler led to about a 0.5psi increase in boost everything else remaining constant. I don't think the intercooler has helped with power at all. I'm hoping it will give me a few kws when I increase the boost to 10psi and turne with DFA or PFC...atleast it will be a little safer I guess. I dont think a Front mount is needed for this on standard turbo, right? I have a 3" full exhaust (compliance cat though) On 10psi and tuned how much extra power could you expect from FMIC compared to R34 intercooler? I don't want to loose the crisp thrttle response.
  15. Cef11E - It seems like you picked up about 8rwhp throughout the rev range...i..e about 7rwkw. Can you notice this very easily? I would have thought maybe you would pick up 10-15rwkw... Still good mod if you save some fuel aswell... Just wondering how much you could expect to gain on RB25det - I was thinking about 15rwkw..I know my car runs down into low 10 AFR at the higher revs at present...and thats at stock boost. I imagine a little lower as the boost is wound up
  16. Im considering. My battery goes dead if I leave tha car for a week. The cable that goes from negative on battery to the chassis isn't long enough because the current battery is smaller I guess and I can only get the bottom hole on the bottom of the that lead to go on the top stud. This wouldn't be the cause of it going dead would it..that I only have one of those on. $130-140 is a fair bit, is this a gel battery? I rang up one place and they said $410 for a gel. Said bring it down so we can measure up, "yeah sure"!! Others said you could just use normal battery.... not sure may consider one. Where is wrxhoon in sydney? Might be able to pick up
  17. Hey Cefie..is that % load reduction? Thats a lot at the medium-high load. How much fueling do you reckon this would trim? Approx 10-15% at those loads? Have you had trouble with pinging? I know it will be different for rbs etc..just curious thanks
  18. Who is Heasemens? Ok I'll call - thanks - the KYB catalogue I have doesn't have R34 in it
  19. Does this mean the R34GTT is longer shock length like R33 GTST??? Thanks
  20. Thanks SK - how about R34 GTT, do you think they are shorter than the R33 GTST front shocks aswell??
  21. I got new rear KYB shocks for my R33 for $100 each. Though if you want spring to go with it you might have to source some 2nd hand or get a pair of someone iwho is modifying
  22. More likely they would get noisy first, but if in ANY doubt replace. Also you can get them cheap! Check water pump too. If you think it is ok (no water from weep holes), no play on shaft etc then leave it - otherwise replace
  23. nissan charge a sh*t load for the tensioner and idler. They wanted about $120 for tensioner and 250 for the ideler I think. Search around for part numbers. I posted a thred in here with the part numbers and where to get them cheap. Then checkif RB26 has same part number.. good luck
  24. Does anyone know the strut top to eyelet length of 1. An R33 GTST front standard shock/spring combo 2. An R33 GTR front standard shock/spring combo 3. An R34 GTT front standard shock/spring combo
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