benl1981

Tensioner is $28 if it is the same as the one that goes on the RB25 and RB30 - replace it if any doubt. Spring is only to set the tension initially. No need to replace unless really crappy. Idler is about $48.

Anyone know if the front R33 GTR shocks will give an R33 gtst the same ride height as with stock shocks. I hear the R34GTT are the same as the R33GTR?? If you measure the shock length with the spring over it of the R33GTR compared with the R33 GTST are they very close. I would imagine the GR would have a slightly higher spring rate? Thanks

are you sure it the pump. I thought I had a faulty pump , but turned out once I added more fluid and bled the air out of the system it was fine. If you have a perished hose or hose clamp not done up properly it could be letting air into the system causing cavitation in the pump and making a lot of noise. Otherwise a snapped belt. Then you start looking to the pump. Shouldn't be any more than $750, alternative is to look at 2nd hand pump. I doubt in a 98 model car that the pump has gone, unless a commodore or something or the pump has been run dry for a long time.

that was funny sh-t - cutting that thing in half. just picturing you guys there cutting it... You dont need it anyway so thats good. Even if it is cut its fine dont bother putting any other stuff on it.

my noise./vibration isn't very severe but I replaced belt, tensioner, idler and the belt had plenty of tension. Even after this the vibration/noise at low rpm is still evident. Might get a mechanic to check it out someday. Must be something else causing it..

Thanks mate - thought it should be ok but the reassurance is good. Right, so the smoke is only from introducing more combustables for a given air supply causing more unburnt HC to exit the exhaust as there isn't enough obxygen there to complete combustion. Smoked for a while as I left the house to take it for a drive. People must have thought what a bomb! I thought some of the white fumes etc was the carbon. Or is the carbon just going to flake off..not really sure but the car feels better.

Thanks cubes. Handy to know

f--k. Talk about a funny thing to do. You cut the piece that has Nissan 2500 twin cam etc written on it right? You don't need this. On series 1 an ignitor module sits on it at the back that you would need to secure to something else (I cable tied mine around the brake lines to ABS module..its not heavy at all). Just curious - what did you use to cut it? I would think that would be fairly hard to cut while in position there. A lot harder than removing the crossover pipe etc. Thats funny... BTW it keeps the coils cooler if you leave this cover off (i.e. the one you cut up) and you can change spark plugs easier. Not sure if a bit more heat may go into the intake crossover pipe - but I think it would be marginal.

anyone!

Just did this yesterday as Ive done on a few NA cars. Bottle of Redex injector treatment, pull vacuum hose. Rev car to 3k rpm and place vacuum hose in bottle and regulate flow. This burns the carbon off pistons, valves etc. Car blew out smoke for a while as it should. I only did a small dose on it and the little pinging that it had before is gone. But I just thought with the turbo in the way of the exhaust is this not a really good thing to do. I guess all the carbon should have burnt and just turned into smoke before it hits the turbo. Any thoughts. Car is fine and feels good - just wondering if this method is no no for turbo car.

Would a new RB30E pump not do the job?? THanks

is it cold - what boost you running? I find the stock ECU to do funny things at anything over about 8psi! Maybe just it is sensing too much airflow and going into rich and retard mode. That is if it is RB25det

alternator belt may not be tight enough. Check all the belt tension - i found the alternator one had to be quite tight before it stopped squelling. Check all belts - failing that could be timing belt

wierd even tonight running just over 8psi I can feel slowed acceleration when foot flat to the floor. Much faster at 1/2 throttle. I have an R34 intercooler and full exhaust..maybe the extra airflow from these and the cold nights lead to a steep increase in airflow and cause the ECU to freak out at the readings?!! Like to know how you go siks!

Just thinking about making some pineapples on the lathe. I believe most of them are made out of polyurethane. Has anybody tried nylon ones or would these wear awat too quickly?? They seem a lot of money for what they are. All you need to do is wack a piece in the lathe machine down the O.D and send the right drill through or bore it out to right size. Anybody got dimensions - there is 4 to a set right?? Are they all the same size>>

Quick question So can you buy a generic unsealed battery and make a breather hose for it? I.e. do all unsealed battery have a hole you can put some plastic pipe in you can run as the breather line...just never seen it done before..

Just skimming through the 100 odd pages as you do. Whats the verdict on oil pump. Is the standard RB30 pump good enough. I guess you will see little more RPM with the RB25 head and the boost will add to the stress put on it. An RB30ET pump is fairly expensive I believe. If you were only going for about 230rwkw it seems that Staddard RB30E ACL pistons are the go All other standard RB30E for bottom end including oil pump??? Thanks

Also run car without the cover over the coil packs. If series 1 with the ifnitor module at the back then you'll have to cable tie this to the brake lines or something around the back Good luck!

take coil packs out. Wipe everything down to get rid of excess water. Grab your gfs/wife/mums hair dryer to dry anything else up, or to dry out the coils. Not too close though that you burn anything or burn out the hairdryer. Just an idea. Though with the driving you should have got rid of most of the water I would think..

Siks mate. Thanks a lot for that post. Thats like what I get sometimes. Feels slow to go to redline and a bit jerky. Depending on loading/outside air temp and what gear I'm in affects how jerky it i, ie.e whether it was a sudden cut or just not real smooth when you rev it out. I have got the boost at around 8psi and appears to be smooth almost all the time. 10psi was causing some problems on cold nights etc Handy to know that yours with splitfire coils is the same. I think I can rule out coils as my problem aswell. Its either SAFC style gizmo or PFC it seems

thanks mate. Can anyone else verify this? Cheers

Are the springs and shocks different. Could you put R34 shocks and springs into an R33?? Sorry to deviate a little Thanks

Dont bother wasting any petrol trying to run it in. If its going to make any difference it will just be a bit less restrictive so at e.g 4000rpm you may have a little more airflow, so ECU will add a little more fuel to increase power.

Did you spray over even the clear side...

times by 10 on the horizontal is it??