benl1981

anybody care to explain how to read it. Is that RPM on the vertical axis? not sure how it works. I guess this is BTDC ign at all diff load points. Is this how the PFC defines its load poits. 0-800 and 0 to 21213??

cubes - you car sounds pretty good for stock turbs..do you have powerfc or other? Or pizza cutters

I'm not really bias I think... the rexy does feel gutless at low rpm. Go to your subaru dealer and check for yourself... I'd be the first to admit if it had better power all round.. Obviously the grip is great but compared to the R33 with a few minor mods the rexy felt like a slower car

Ive read a bit on here about how the standard ECU has a fit when you run a bit higher boost. I actually had what felt like a harsh rev limit at about 3k rpm when I ran 10psi. I have a full exhaust and slightly bigger intercooler. With the extra airflow and a cold night I think it may have been the ECU cutting the fun..to do this safely it richens up the mixture and retards the timing heaps. Apparently if it were coils I wouldn't really get this feel as you would have to have more thatn 3 coils misfire at the same time... Still not sure but swapped over to another set of good coils and still the same. If cold night and 8-9psi in the higher gears it isn't that smooth. Will fit a SAFC style device and see if I can get that to help tidy up the ignition/fueling issues.

check the belt tension. Most likely the other belts - i.e not the timing belt. Even if they didnt replace them to get to the timing belt you have to remove all the others. I Mine were making heaps of noise till I tightened them up. he one that goes around the alternator needed to be fairly tight, compared to how I had it anyway.

to those that saying rexies aren't laggy read this. This is about the sti. I found the standard rex to be a mild dose of what they are talking about with the sti. I'm sure a VS v6 commodore would have more low end grunt (i.e. from 1000-3000rpm) than both the gtst and the wrx. I like the r33 because it has reasonable low end but the mid to top end is relly good. v6 commodore gets very rough. WRX no low end at all. Sti even worse. How did you like the way I managed to throw a commonhore in the mix? http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1463/a...?popularArticle

What boost are you running madr34? I would have though if you have to gap them down to 0.6 then there is something amiss with your coils. I only notice a problem at 9psi in temps where the air temps are low. I don't think it is the coils, rather the ECU doing Rich and retard to protect the engine. I'm going to build a jaycar fuel asjuster and get it tuned to hopefully smoothen up the power delivery.

true. In my case though replaced with new ones etc, still a similar vibration. It is worth looking at as timing belt could be loose etc and hitting timing cover. Mine is correctly tensioned but still gives a bit of vibration at about 1500rpm under load.

could that happen with a standard cas and cam gear?

Is this the same with r33 RB25DET turbo? Can you cause engine damage if a wheel lets go? Or very unlikely?

if anyone solves the low rpm vibration problem can they please post up the results. thanks

I have vibration if for example you put it in 3rd and try and go up a small hill at below 2000rpm even on very small throttle opening. Most cars wont complain too much..but not pull hard. My r33 has a lot of vibration. I have put a new timing belt in and new idler and tensioner bearing but still about the same and couldnt see anything of note around there. Im thinking maybe the big exhaust or one of the missing manifold studs might be causing it. But as soon as it is over 2000rpm it is smooth as. So I just don't really lug it. Would like to know what it is though.

if its all about beating him get a rex and mod it. Not sure how you would go but all comes down to getting the skylines off the line.

if its all about beating him get a rex and mod it. Not sure how you would go but all comes down to getting the skylines off the line.

if temp remains at 1/2 most of the time then your thermo is probably ok. Other things to change - fuel filter, and possibly air filter and spark plugs. 02 sensor more likely though. I dont think the responsiveness has much to do with it unless you are driving it a lot harder

what temp is it running at - i had a car with a stuck thermostat. Didnt warm up real quick and temp fluctuated on the highway - down to cold. New therm gave anoter 40km a tank Just see where your temp sits. Run some good injector cleaner (the concentrate) I tnink it is redex (about $12) but soes a lot of tanks. Clean the AFM with contact cleaner. pump the tyres up. There the cheap options... 02 sensor could be stuffed like baseliez is saying. you could replace that for about 50 or 60, may be wotrth it - unless you get exhaust gas analysis to see what AFR it is running at idle and part throttle

How much is grey imports per hour? Do they do dyno tuning and do they do know skylines. UAS seemed pretty good I thought...

So there is a steering wheel sensor aswell as rotary sensor on the rack...i.e. for the hicas. My light comes on every now and then...

My Hicas light comes on now and then. Standard steering wheel. When my car is goingstraight ahead the wheel is rotated a few degrees...is this a possible reason. Or is it more serious. IId just like to get the annoying orange light off the dash. If I pull the fuse when the light is off will this keep the light off or will it just stay on?? Thanks

Do DB4s do a lot of skylines? I know unique does a lot..

Thanks again SK!! You're really helpful. Should I connect the multimeter into the ECU or just run some wire through to the AFM. I don't really want to have to cut the wires unless I have to. Do you know at what approx voltage the cars ususally go R&R - is it about 4.8v (I guess it depends on a few factors)? I can hear a leak around the PCV when car is running. not very loud though but you've given me a few thing to try before I go to UAS. But I think it might be powerfc time. My coils look ok..the fact that is doing a huge big cut in the power delivery means that I must be bordering on the ecu R&R (unless something else), but it isnt really a miss like you say. I think if I had a leaky valve I would notice it on 7psi right? It's very smooth at stock boost. Ive got it set on about 9psi now and it ran ok this morning (reset ecu last night), but it feels a bit dead at certain rpm and the at the power isnt as smooth as it could be - maybe just a bit of R&R as you say. Powerfc time I think - that is after I check all the things you've mentioned Thankyou!! PS. I can definately see a little light around the coils - even with my friends set that work at 14psi. Maybe you could see light on all cars if really dark and have the middle cover off. On the side slightly, not a shooting arc just some faint light. There is no burn marks oon either set of coils!! Or cracks..

Idler: NSK 56TB 2801 B01 Tensioner: NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806 I think the idler was the more expensive one (about $48). The tensioner about $28 These were for an R33!! Not sure if R32 is the same. The tensioner is the same as for VL commo hence its cheapness.

Hey Sk - could you read the above, hope it's not too long. Also, you mention about asvancing base timing. Could it be possible that I should be retarding rather than advancing. I'm just thinking that maybe the ecu isR&R due to it knock sensing. What do you think? I can't hear any pinging at the moment..

Hmm - so the rich an retard can't really be felt that easy? I can feel a definite hesitation in the power delivery above stock boost. Around 7-8psi it is fine - very smooth. Boost it and you can feel it isn't as smooth, kind of a little jerky.. I might leave the boost up to around 10psi and take it to somone to check. Mine is series 1 though..don't know if the rich and retard is different for this..

Thanks SK for the ideas. I think I am at the limit of advance as I have heard slight pinging before so I retarded the timing 1-2 deg and haven't heard it since 1. Fuel filter looks new. Last owner had it done (about 1 year ago) and have the reciept. Maybe I should get a new air filter. 2. I'll clean the AFM - with contact cleaner? Or anything else just as good. - I have carby cleaner at home... 3. Well on the dyno at stock boost it was at 10:1. The car runs perfectly at stock boost - but increase it a little and it kind of hesitates a little as you rev it out. The more boost you run the worse it gets. 4. Havent had a leak down test but it uses no oil and oil is only a little dirty at 5k kms. 5. Don't know whether I should still be looking at coils as there is a little light around them still, maybe this is normal. Although going from 1.1mm to 0.8mm made no difference - if coils were the problem this should have helped?? One night had the boost controller set to about 10psi. I went up a steep hill in 4th - as boost came up to 9psi (at around 3000rpm) the engine almost died. Quite viscous as if I just put on the brakes or lost all forward momentum. If it were coils this probably wouldn't be the case?? The engine doesn't blow smoke or use coolant etc. It feels more as if it is ECU or some thing sensor related that causes it.. I might take the car to UAS as they know skylines. I can hear a little hissing around the PCV valve hose cannot really see a leak or anything though. I'm wondering whether I could have an intake leak somewhere but not sure how to tell. As this would mean that more air has to travel through the AFM to maintain the same boost level...however when they dyno ran it they didnt find a leak. You would think under boost you would hear one.. Bit annoying...