benl1981

Thanks SK for the ideas. I think I am at the limit of advance as I have heard slight pinging before so I retarded the timing 1-2 deg and haven't heard it since 1. Fuel filter looks new. Last owner had it done (about 1 year ago) and have the reciept. Maybe I should get a new air filter. 2. I'll clean the AFM - with contact cleaner? Or anything else just as good. - I have carby cleaner at home... 3. Well on the dyno at stock boost it was at 10:1. The car runs perfectly at stock boost - but increase it a little and it kind of hesitates a little as you rev it out. The more boost you run the worse it gets. 4. Havent had a leak down test but it uses no oil and oil is only a little dirty at 5k kms. 5. Don't know whether I should still be looking at coils as there is a little light around them still, maybe this is normal. Although going from 1.1mm to 0.8mm made no difference - if coils were the problem this should have helped?? One night had the boost controller set to about 10psi. I went up a steep hill in 4th - as boost came up to 9psi (at around 3000rpm) the engine almost died. Quite viscous as if I just put on the brakes or lost all forward momentum. If it were coils this probably wouldn't be the case?? The engine doesn't blow smoke or use coolant etc. It feels more as if it is ECU or some thing sensor related that causes it.. I might take the car to UAS as they know skylines. I can hear a little hissing around the PCV valve hose cannot really see a leak or anything though. I'm wondering whether I could have an intake leak somewhere but not sure how to tell. As this would mean that more air has to travel through the AFM to maintain the same boost level...however when they dyno ran it they didnt find a leak. You would think under boost you would hear one.. Bit annoying...

Thanks SK. Running standard boost on the dyno (about 7psi) the AFR were going as low as 10:1 - does this mean it was starting R&R? I had 1.1mm gap plugs before, replaced with 0.8mm NGK - no difference. I checked timing yesterday and looks to be about 18deg BTDC. Wondering whether I should gap down to 0.6mm? Just envious of other R33 owners who can get up to 12psi without trouble. I wonder why mine is different..

Hey SK. Interested to read you only got 8psi before R&R. I am having some trouble with the car hesitating a bit above about 8psi. Especially on cold nights. The car sort of runs a little rough as you rev it out and feels like it isn't going as hard at 10psi compared to say 7psi. Only when you come on boost. If you use part throttle to moderate the boost it feels like it is accelerating harder I don't think it is the coils, I've now swapped them for others. Just suprised as a lot of other people are running up to 12psi and not getting this kind of thing... So I need PFC or DFA?? Thanks Car is R33 RB25det manual series1

Replaced with ones that are known to work at 19psi STILL the same. On these ones I can still see small amounts of light if dark! Not an arc but lights up lightly around the body. The coils have no burn marks on the side...and actually my ones look good aswell. Im thinking powerfc time!! Maybe I am getting rich and retard at just over 8psi...

Ok - so you think even though very faint light the coil packs are still cactus. I picked up some others to try that don't have the burn marks. The wierd thing is you can see the light if very dark on about 4 coils. If you then rev it, while you are revving there is no light evident, however once you then back off the light (leaking) is worse. Does this mean under acceleration they probably aren't leaking - or once you add boost they would. On the dyno the guy couldnt find them leaking though I dont think he ran it for more than 5-10minutes and wasnt that dark.

Is this ture - cut wire 53? A guy mentioned domething about this - maybe why I am getting cutout at 10psi.. Does it really make hicas go nuts?

i was going to pick up some coils this arvo? Are mine playing up you think SK? Not sure about your earthing comment...

Sk?

The bolts are pretty tight I think. The light is coming from the plastic body to the metal frame of the coil. I'll attach the pic here so you cans see where the burn marks are happening. I didnt think this could be earthing prob?? Does that metal frame earth the coils?

Mine appear to be arcing to the metal body around the coil packs (i.e. the part that you put the screws through) - It is only very faint - is this still something that could be causing the hesitation as I rev the car out? It is on about 4 coils. It isn't a shooting arc I can just see some light every couple of seconds at each coil. Gapping the plugs to 0.8mm from 1mm hasn't helped at all. The mechanic reckoned I should gap them to 0.6 - if this fixes it the n you know it is coil related. I'm thinking of borrowing a friends to check i.e. coil packs.. Problem mainly happens on cold night when air is a bit more dense - but occurs at about 8psi.

anyone?

Its coming from the side of the coil. Does this mean there is a small crack on the side? You can see burn marks on the side from where it is getting warm from the little leak..

Hey siks - when you saw thos e coils arcing was it only very small. It has to be very dark and I can only see a tiny bit of light near the efge of about 3-4 coil packs. Not really a shotting spark. more like very faint light every know and then.

I only have faint light from the coils at idle. Can only be seen when very dark. Is this what is causing a misfire do you think? The mechanic reckons it could be CAS or module. He thinks you would see more arcing if it were a problem. He ran it on he dyno and could not see any big arcs. although the car was not that warm I don't think Does it have to be a big arc to cause a misfire??

If you can see any light around the coils they are leaking right? I can only see it when it is very dark and it is only quite faint. But it is definately lighting up on 3or 4 coil packs. The mechanic couldnt find it today. Maybe it wasn't dark enough..

Including taxes??? They can't say a price delivered and then add on extra can they>>???

So what is the real nengun price then??

Don't change your afm unless you change your ECU - it will stuff things up. The AFM isn't maxed out but the reading the ECU is getting is saying this is too much airflow (most likely), hence richening and retarding the timing which feels like a fuel cut. Turn the boost down to 10psi. If it stil happens look to coil packs for issues.

I'd like to see the 0-100 times if they weren't revd to 6k and slungshot off the line. Bottom line - they feel very flat at low revs but are definately good cars if you get into it a bit. They don't have the torque of a skyline though.

I thought it was a lot less - check around - I thout it was closer to 2-2.5L - I have to do mine soon.

Depends what youre after. Like what has been said. The rexy felt no quicker than a corolla below 3500rpm. Launch it hard it will beat a gtst. but if both cars ease out the clutch - then hammer it Id have money on a gtst. GTST will be quicker if your not trying to tear apart your car. That's in a straight line. Around corners rexy and wet - rxy

Do you reckon the Bosch setup would give as good spark as the splitfires?? Sounds interesting

So the nengun price of 580 delivered - does this include taxes etc...

I had the same think at 9psi. I think mine is the coil packs. But yours could be the ECU going into protect mode! The dense air makes a difference since it is so cool lately

Just drive straight off and don't boost or rev too much for the first 5 miuntes!! If you idle for longer thatn 20 seconds you are: 1. Wasting fuel 2. Increasing pollution 3. Wasting some of your life 4. NOT doing your car any favours. These are modern cars. They are made to be driven straight off. CASE CLOSED