benl1981

I think Nengun are ven a little cheaper.. Thanks anyway

I had a look under my bonnet when the car was warm and in the very dark I can see arcing on I think all of them!! They are not meant to do this I think. I might be better going for splitfires then. I have a used car warranty so I may be able to get them under warranty...we'll see. They appear to be about 570 for the set - not too bad! I can't believe the car is running well untill you get to 7psi or so. Looking forward to smooth running at 9 or 10psi You have to look very hard for the arcing. I'm just running it woithout the spark plug cover and because its series one I have just cable tied the module to the brake lines...

I was disappointed in the low end pull. Nothing like the skyline. If you rev it and dump it sure its ok but nothing below 3.5k

Thanks Beer Baron. I had a look around but there are so many threads on cols..I guess I just made another one If I can get some good 2nd hand ones I'll just go those. Otherwise Splitfires. THanks for the help!

Will Splitefire coils give you a few extra kw over a good condition set of stock coil packs? On 10psi of boost and a few minor mods? Or will good condition stock ones do the same job? I am going to replace a faulty coil but wondering if I will get a power or any kind of gain from going splitfires compared to good condition 2nd hand ones. Car is R33. Thanks

How long do they usually take? I s thee somewhere in Aus you can get them for about 700-750 that have them in stock. Thanks Are these 6 individual coil packs or one to replace the 6??

Are the splitfire one piece to replace the 6 individual ones? They are 579 delivered is that right?

There are some valid points in what you say, you may respect your car and drive it within limits but there are many young ones that don't. On the weekend I had a rexy with P plates going past me doing about 130 in a 90 zone. Most drivers doing something stupid are Ps I have to say. True you can do it in a crapppy car. But it's not hard to see how a fast car can be a loaded weapon in the wrong hands. Moreso than an old sh.tter. Wait a few years till a bit of the initial buzz has gone. P.s. Don't believe all articles. Figures can be used to show what is wanted to be shown. Common sense should prevail sometimes. I can not see the argument for letting P platers have turbos etc..

If you can pull it apart you might find the brushes are worn down. New brushes are only about $20. Could also be the voltage regulator but more likely the brushes. If it spins fine with no noise the bearings are ok. Mechanics and auto electricians often don't like pulling things apart. Happened with a toyota I had. Wanted $350 for a new one. I pulled the old one apart put new brushes in - worked till I sold the car (a couple of years) You could get a cheap 2nd hand one. Wack it in - then try and refresh your old one. Put that back in and sell the 2nd hand one for what you paid. Or talk to an auto electrician that is willing to rebuild your one approx 100-300 I would think

I think the P plate restrictions in NSW are a good start. But they only apply to those that don't have P plates as yet. They include no driving of v8s or turbos etc. The fast cars are worth the wait. I know some of the things I did on P plates I wouldnt have got away with in a much quicker car. It takes a few years to become fully aware of the consequences etc. Some people may be ok at 17 but I don't think by banning such cars for a few years is going to hurt anyone.. You should have another 50 to 70 years to drive cars. If you want performance go gokarting or get into racing. Having all these powerful cars on the street is a bit ridiculous, though I do like driving the skyline. Driving is a privelidge not a right! Common sense: Faster car = higher speed crash and more temptation, less time for reflexes etc

How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking? Thanks

I test drove a new standard rex last weekend. Frankly I was quite disappointed with the low end torque of it. I hopped in my R33 and was much happier. Things that were nice were that there were less squeeks and the car is a bit smaller so feels more throwable. If you launch the rex no doubt it would beat a gtst but I really don't think it is worth the extra money. Felt really slack till you got >3.5-4k on board. Rex has more usable space inside. The AWD is nice but less fun. If you want outright perfoemance, in terms of handling and dump clutch acceleration then go the rex. If the rex didn't slingshot the start then I am pretty sure my R33 is faster. Though it does have exhaust and R34 intercoooler whereas the rex was stock and quite tight (only 200kms) You could tell in terms of the turbo hit that the rex hasa smaller turbo. Didn't feel like a real hit once the turbo came on song.

The ignition timing has a lot to do with the airflow. If it is getting higher airflow at the lower rpm then I would suggest that the ECU would not advance the timing as much.

Mystr33. Was it mainly a road or dyno tune? How much was that? Did you have to speed much? Thanks

I have 10psi boost, R34 intercooler and 3" exhaust. I don't really plan to go much further with it. I hear the PowerFC is much superior than say a DFA (Airflow convertor) but there is a lot of tuning hours gone into the stock ECU that I am skeptical about leaving behind. Only problem is I have heard slight pinging when I was running 10psi on the stock R33 intercooler so I think it must be on the advance limit, then a airflow convertor is not going to work. Maybe I will run some good injector cleaner and decarb the engine to see if that helps. Also OI will check base timing as I retarded it about 1-2 deg and no pinging at all. CAS is close to the middle.

It just seems like that is a lot better than the curve most people are getting. I think I am getting rich and retard at around the 10psi mark with only a R34 intercooler. If you compare the UAS graph to others it seems that it is a very good stock ecu. I'm not talking about power. I'm more looking at the shape of the curve..

Anyone?? Preferably northern beaches or as far as castle hill. Thanks

FROM UAS website "DYNO TUNING - $140/HOUR APEXI POWER FC TUNING - $590.00 Dyno time for diagnosis, tuning or tidy up tune of aftermarket computers and controllers if engine is modified, for example tuning Super AFC etc. Our Apexi Power FC full tune includes part throttle, cold start and final road tune using Pro Tuner, knock sensor and Bosch Air Fuel Ratio meter and includes setting boost or multiple boost settings" Sounds pretty thorough but $590 for a fairly stock car seems a lot. Might ask them or try Hitman etc...

I was wondering would these power dips show up under WOT in 2nd gear aswell you think? Also - I am thinking about getting a powerfc... but I saw on the UAS website there is a graph for a car with more mods than mine and it is going well on stock ecu!! 208RWKW with good power curve!! What's wrong with mine and everyone elses?? FROM UAS site: SKYLINE R33 GTS-T * UAS RB25 Plenum & Intercooler * 12 Psi * Standard ECU * Standard Turbocharger * Cat Back Exhaust * Pod Filter 208.4 KW AT THE REAR WHEELS

So you saying 140 isn't too bad for Sydney prices. I think himan is 100??

Unique should be pretty good I guess. But $140/hr - that's quite a bit... But I guess they are dealing with Skylines all the time so may save a bit of time. I'll have to look around a bit more

Thanks guys. If the PowerFC tune will be around the $300 I might go for it then. Seems like a good thing even though my car is relatively stock. How much was hitman Beer Baron?

I wouldnt think the intercooler alone would change your boost level by that much. I noticed a boost increase of just above 0.5psi. The only reason it will increase boost if your car is stock is because of the solenoid that bleeds air above 4500rpm. The amount it bleeds allows boost to go from 5psi to about 8psi above 4500rpm. As you are removing a restriction you will most likely have more air supply and it would need to bleed off a bit more ar to keep the pressure at 8psi which it doesn't so you get a little more. I still would think that you would be lucky to get more than 1psi if the setup is stock! I think the consensus is 10psi is a lot safer. I have problems at around 10psi with Rich and retard so on stock ECU I think going above 9/10psi is pointless unless you use something like a Fuel Adjuster or powerFC. I have yet to determined if my problem is coil packs or just the ECU protecting things.

SK - That makes sense what you are saying about the R&R. I have found that sometimes boost drops from 0.65bar to about 0.4 bar. I think maybe it is the rich and retard. If I set boost to 0.5bar it will stay bretty close to that up to redline. Up the boost and I must be getting R&R hence loosing boost as the ECU senses too much airflow?

So you wouldn't get much better than 400?