benl1981

I don't really want to go fast on the road too much while someone tunes...?? I heard someone saying they had to go 170... Then the tune could involve a time in the cop station!!

How good is this event for a first time drifter?

anyone?

I'm investigating getting a PFC for a lightly modded R33. I.e. 10psi, R34 cooler, 3" full exhaust Would a $300 tune get you safe power with better fuel consumption to stock?? I know it depends where you go but I'm just trying to ascertain how much on top of the PFC is needed for a good tune. I hear hitman does some good things. Would 300 cover it???

I see your point. Thanks for the advice. I'll see if I can get a Powerfc for the right price. I didn't think the mod list was much ito warrant the FC i.e only 2psi more boost, slighlty larger intercooler and exhaust. But you know your skylines...

Right - I see. But you really think for my mod list powerfc would be much superior ?

Most cars I here about with a powerfc aren't getting great economy though. I guess you need to ensure at the tune that yolu want good fuel economy at part throttle etc. I currently get about 11.5-13L/100kms out of an R33 manual. I would like to get this down to about 10-12L/100kms. My last car was a corolla so it is hurting at the bowser. But also want to keep the engine safe. Don't want to turn it into a false economy by blowing a motor. So for 10psi boost, R34 intercooler, exhaust you still think powerfc is worth it along with the increased tuning costs? Just not sure if I want to part with $1500 for PFC and tune vs. approx $350 for DFA and tune. I justr think the difference in how the car drives will not be huge for these mods? Am I right? DFA should get rid of most of the dips????

So do you think your DFA is limiting the life of your engine? You seem to have improved your fuel consumption a lot with the DFA - do you really think you could have done much better with the powerfc?

It's a ceramic turbine wheel that they have =- you are looking at the compressor side. Looks like the stock turbo I think...

"Less fuel consumption and the car will drive nicer and the engine last longer." Is this really true. So you think with the SAFC you will always be bordering on detonation hence it won't last as long? I thought they were a reasonable compromise...

Good idea. Yes I guess once it goes over say e.g 4.8volts you could richen up the mixture and retard timing a lot!! If I was to use SAFC I would only use it to change the voltages slighlty not using FCD style approach..

SK. WHen you say the engine will last longer with PowerFC ..what about if for some reason a boost contol hose comes off/perishes/boost contoller malfunction or wastegate actuator probem causing sudden huge increase in boost (over 30psi..). I believe the PFC does not have any engine protection. Whereas the stock ECU and SAFC will still rich and retard to protect engine. I guess you can control this by making sure all hoses etc are tight I'm still considering between either the Jaycar version of the SAFC or a powerfc, for a lightly modded R33...with plans for no more than 175-190rwkw standard turbo 10psi, R34 intercooler, 3" exhaust

Hey Kryzsiu - you got that without a powerfc? Do you have a SAFC or something to lean out the mixtures. I thought your stock ecu would freak out with all the airflow.

Right. So the Rich and retard really happens at the same time?

Hmm. I read somewhere that you think the ECU goes into severe retard if it sees that te mixture is very rich...so is there a few different ways that you can get what appears to be the cut...i.e. 1. from airflow being too high; and the other 2. from the ECU somehow detecting that the mixture is very rich then retarding the timing... not sure what sensor would let it know this though. My coils do have burn marks on the side but no visible cracks and no arcing can be seen. I have new copper plugs gapped at 0.6mm BKR6E (I think they were). So you think the coils aren't to blame.

Hey Gary. Thanks a lot... "You see it on so many R25DET dyn graphs, its either a drop or hold in power for a few hundred rpm, then increasing" So this means that R&R can take the form of a not so severe encounter.. When I get what feels like the cut should I keep my foot down and see if the poer comes back...I'm not sure if is coil related or R&R...?

What Sk wrote... "As well as making more power, I also leaned out the AFR's to a more fuel economy friendly 14.5 to 1 at the lower rpms (off boost). The standard AFR's were 12 to 1 off boost and went as high as 9 to 1 on boost, not good for power or fuel economy. I would have liked to go a little leaner than 11 to 1, but the ignition timing was getting a bit advanced as I pulled more fuel out of it with the DFA lowering the AFM voltage. It was the usual piggy back compromise, no doubt exacerbated by the standard exhaust, compliance cat and standard intercooler. I could trick the standard ECU just so much, then it would pull ignition timing and dump a whack of fuel in. My biggest single observation with the Jaycar DFA was how easy it was to get rid of the usual RB25DET power dip around 4,250 rpm. With 100 settings at 128 load points I could fine tune it so easily. There is simply NO DIP, and anyone who has tuned an RB25DET will tell you that is hard to achieve with piggy back controllers." My question is I'm under the impression that whenever you cruise or accelerate softly it is in closed loop (using o2 sensor reading to try and get back to stoic) ..so how do you know whether you are tuning a closed loop load or not? You say you had as high as 9:1 on boost. Pulling that back to mid 11s to 12 was that a problem with timing?? You talk about rich and retard happening at fairly low boost levels...but is this the savage cut? What I have experienced is almost what feels like a fuel cut at around 10psi but is there a chance I am gietting it a bit before this where the power is dipping due to retarding of the timing but once enough air sensed will do the rich and retard worse..? Thanks

Thanks for the explanation. How much does it affect timing if for example you alter the AFM signal enough to go from 10:1 AFR to say 12:1 between 3000-5000rpm. Would the timing be changed by more than 3 degrees? I know the computer alters the timing a lot compared to the base 15deg BTDC... Jut trying to get a rough idea on the effect of the dfa. thanks

Thaks Gary, But with my mods that don't include the highflow turbo I would think it would be closer...will I loose much low end compared to a powerfc? because some people say that the peak won't be much different but you will loose low end I find hard to believe unless you can not lean it out enough due to it getting too advanced...

How hard is it to calibrate I thought you just tune it on the car? And do you need to build the hand controller aswell? 4-5 hrs is a fair while.... didn't think it would take that long. HoGood practice though I guess

Nice one. Have a couple of further qns if not too much to ask 1. With the SAFC I have seen how it dispalys e.g. -5.0% I guess this is how much fuel is being taken out or is this the amount at which it changes the AFM signal? So seeing I am not too bad with a soldering iron this should be as good as a SAFC it seems. 2. For an R33 with 10psi boost R34 intercooler and 3" exhaust will I loose much low end power using the DFA as compared to a power FC. These are the extent of my mods. I am wondering the benefits of spending an extra $1k on powerfc and more to tune... I know the PFC can vary ignition also and is much less compromising. But if the DFA will give a 90% result I'm tempted to go with it... Thanks

Will most tuners know how to use the DFA effectively. I have read in other threads if the tuner doesn't know what they are doing they can actually make things worse with a SAFC..I guess this is similar I was going to go to someone called the hitman...apparently he is pretty good wih Powerfcs and safc...

I think it is the ECU cutting fuel/ignition from the AFM reading to much air. WIth PFC it should be gone I would think...

My bearings were pretty average. I replaced the tensioner bearing and idler bearing. I bought as whole pulley with the bearing inside. Under $100 for the 2. My water pump seemed fine and my crank and cam seals weren't leaking so I left them. Some say you should replace crank and cam seals but I couldn't be bothered taking the rocker cover off and the camshaft pulleys. Also I thought a few less things to get wrong the first time I did a belt change. I did the most important things. If there was any sign of oil around crank or cam seals it is wise to do them. If you take it to a shop I would get everything done as it costs $ if down the track something needs doing, whereas If you do it yourself you will just kick yourself for the wasted 3-4 hours... Torque up idler bolt and tensioner nut to correct torque. Also if oil does leak from crank and cam seals it will shorten the life of your belt possibly without you knowing.

Hey Blukie - did you figure this out. I have standard ECU but getting a cut about the same boost level...