benl1981

Thanks mate. It s making kind of a grinding noise. Doesn't sound good at all. The fluid is milky (air in there). I might try bleeding the air out as I did find a hose that was very loose. Maybe I bumped it when removing the belt...

Hey, I'm not selling them just rang up a bearing company that I listed in FAQ. They will send though. Just add on a few dollars for post. They said they would take credit card

Mine has about 3mm or more in and out movment. The pump is making lot of noise it seems and the fluid is kind of milky in the reservoir (like maybe air got in). There is plenty of fluid in there. New pump time I guess. Anybody know a place that recos them or approx cost to get a good second hand etc. Is it easy to tell the condition? Just check for play I guess Thanks

Are you talking 5mm in one direction? If I push quite hard on the tensioner side there is about 6mm deflection in one direction. Bit less on the idler side. I have it back together now but there is still a bit of harshness at low rpm. Whether this is a radiator shroud or something else vibrating. The mechanic thought it was the timing belt hitting the cam cover before. The belt was a lot looser before than it is now though. Might have to get him to put it one the dyno and have have a look as he loads it up from 1000rpm in 3rd gear.

Thanks guys. I'll try all that in the morning. I think there is a leak somewhere unless its all the water bubling over the top of the radiator. Wil check it when I have more light.

R33 Rb25det Maybe I'm worrying about nothing then. Just bleed it properly and should be right. I'll do it tomorrow morning when I'm abit more sane

Thanks for that. A few odd things though 1. I don't know why but the temp doesn't seem to some up above a fraction over C even after idling for about 5 mins. I thought the thermostat was ok before I did the timing belt. 2. What reading does the gauge go off a temp sensor in the block somewhere? I left the one in the radiator when I flushed it with the garden hose - could this hae wrecked it? 3. The top radiator hose is nice and warm but the bottom is quite cool What's the go you think..? I'll do the coke bottle thing and try not taking the screw right out I hope I haven't damaged anything - I made sure that I filled up the block by shooting coolant/water mix through the top radiator hose. Most I've run it for is abit over 5minutes

Just finished replacing the timing belt on my R33 rb25det and I'm having trouble bleedint he cooling system. I have undone the bleed screw and I took the radiator cap off. I then ran the car for about 5mins. It doesn't seem to stop the bubbling and the temp hasn't moved off full cold. I pluffed the coolant temp sensor back in. Do I have to use the bleed screw or can I just leave the radiator cap off and that will work (what I have done in other cars) Thanks

Thanks Mabru. Good point in Q3 - silly me that I didn't think of that. Hopefully get it up and running tomorrow. Just got to buy some loctite.

I'm just about to finally install the timing belt I've been told a few different way to tension the belt. Here is what the manual says: They also mention before this to put the tensioner in with the spring etc. I have a few questions: 1. So - If I rotate the engine twice once everything is in the tensioner spring will provide enough pressure on the belt to set the tension correctly then I just need to tighten it up? IS this CORRECT? 2. Also, with the nissan belt there is markers. Even if you didn't have the cam and crank markers lined up with the v in the piece on the block and marks on the cam cover if you have the all important marks on cam and crank aligned with the belt markers then you are right aren't you. Pretty nice of Nissan to do that. 3. The markers on the old belt did not match the crank and cam centre punched marks...does this mean it was replaced previously at some stage? Thanks PS I have found a very good source for the idler and tensioner bearings - $76 for the 2. And they are NSK - i.e. genuine. I have bosted it iin the FAQ

I have posted this up in the FAQ area. $76 for the 2

I just got them today from a place in Seven Hills $76 for the 2. I dealt with Frank at: Bearing Industries Seven Hills Rd (cnr Station Rd) Seven Hills 2147 (02) 9674 4322 There is one in Yennora as well. I will post up the part numbers later but they are NSK - so they are the same as the originals.

Hey Jordan - Did the bearing sieze which caused the stud to take more load and then snap off? Or did the belt snap?

Do you need to put 2 nuts on it - one acting as a lock nut...would this work??? Thanks

Are the studs hard to get out? The main stud and bolt are about 9-10mm in diameter - would they really ever break unless overtightened? Not that I'm a stinge but I don't know if it is relly necessary to get new ones? Not sure how to get the stud out either... IF I do take the pump off it will spill a fair bit of water down the front. What do you do, just put some plastic down over all the important stuff like crank gear etc (don't want it going behind and attacking seal or anything. I have the radiator out already but I guess there is still a good litre in the car of coolant.

Where do you get the studs and bolts? How easy does the stud come out in order to replace? The stud that has the supports one end of the spring would be ok right? Just the one that you mount the tensioner on is worth replacing? There is no sign of weeping at all. But you think it is worth replacing it anyway?

All items were sent Monday night and some Tuesday morning, that is for the ones I received payment for. Should be there soon.

Zane - did you suss this out. I hear one of your bolts didn't line up. I got told the U26 was for the R33 (by Nissan) - but series one have a different pump, i.e. bolt is offset 10mm.. Thanks

Thanks mate. Yes I am definately doing the 2 bearings - under $100 for the 2 assmeblies so I'm not going to bother pressing out old ones etc. I can not see any oil around the cams and crank seals. I can't seem to slip the bottom timing gear off though. It won't come over the key. They key doesn't want to come out either, maybe I need to lever with screwdriver but being careful also. I don't reallu y need to take it off - I was just going to have a look at the seal if its behind there. Water pump - not sure if new - but no play at all, feels like a new one. If they are like this do they usually last another 80-100k?

Hi, Thanks for the advice, got it off easy with the new puller. Before I was fighting the cross thread. The rubber bit on the balancer looks slightly cracked. I guess this is maybe normal...hard to see in the photos. I didn't wind the 6mm bolts in too far I don't think - only about 5-7mm The bearings seem a bit worn. The idler bearing makes a bit of noise (No play though) and the tensioner bearing has a little movement but no noise. I'm going to replace both. The idler doesn't make noise when it is new does it? However the waterpump has no play at all feels like new. Feels tight, no signs of leaks. I'm wondering if anyone can tell if has been replaced from the photos. It has a little W22 on the front of it On the right hand side (when looking from the front) Thanks for the help everyone!

I loosened the bolt several turns then I put the puller on so that the centre bolt on the puller is pushing against the harmonic balancer big bolt that has been loosened. The crank pulley has moved about 10-15mm or so outwards but still it is not that loose that you can just pull it off with your hands. I think I pulled the big bolt out and then tried to pull it off, but it didnt work. I know that the pulley is not hard up against the bolt anyway. I know to loosen the bolt as the pulley starts to come off..

Thanks mate for the offer. Yes northern beaces is far from most. I tried to pull it off by hand the rest of the way but still needs a bit of pulling

I think I paid $25. I'm at work now. Borrowed one from a friend today so will try it tonight. This one seems a lot better, atleast the thread isn't stripped...The pulley is almost off anyway I'm on the northern beaches. How hard is it to put the pulley back on. Do you have to tap itwith a hammer with a bit of wood over it or something?

The thread inside is buggered. I took it off and put it in a vice to try and undo it. You could feel the heat from the cutting of the thread!!

Why it was so tough was because the puller from supercheap auto is supercrap . I havent really used the tool before but when doing it by hand the thread didn't feel good. Turns out the more you screw it in the worse it gets. Borrowing a friends tomorrow., The pulley is almost off. I don't think I meant 75mm..maybe 7.5mm or a bit more. Sorry. Thanks for the help!