benl1981

Ok - I have undone the centre bolt (wasnt that hard). But now I have to remove the harmonic balancer. I have loosened the bolt about 75mm or so and fitted the puller. It requires a fair bit of effort when doing up the centre bolt on the puller. Is this normal - I really don't want to break the harmonice balancer!! Any ideas?? Is this normal...should I keep going or should it not be this hard to screw up the puller bolt..

I spoke to a mechanic today that does racecars and been working for 20 years. Very good one. He reckoned you wont damage the box doing the breaker bar with brake on etc. The clutch will spin before you do any damage.

How do I do up the bolt??> Will the handbrake on in 4th gear trick still damage the gearbox...

The only thing then is doing it up to the correct torque. Could I do it with handbrake and in gear foir this? Or is the still bad for the box?

I have a long breaker bar with a swivel head. It is a bout a metre long I would say. When I undo axle nuts (about 200Nm) I can see it flexxing which is also scary. I hope it won't break. I might put on my welding face mask, gloves and overalls. Be a real woos. It's safer to disconnect the ignition source though right? So it has no chance of kicking the motor over.

Thanks for the advice then. I'm suprised not more people mention it. Lucky I didn't go to hard on it. I might try the chassis rail trick then.. Should I just unlpug the big connector on top of the rocker cover that gives the electrical signa to the individual coil packs? Then hit the starter for a split second.

Thanks mate. I have got the radiator out. I know a few people that have done the gearbox trick - no problems. Have you seen a gbox damaged this way? Why would it break it?

I haven't seen anyone else besides you mentioning about the damage to your gearbox from the method I mentioned - I have searched.... Wouldn't the clutch slip rather than damage your gearbox? Maybe you are right, I am just asking I have searched and I thought this was the safest method. I really don't want my hand to be under there when someone hits the starter, even if coil is disconnected.. If the breaker bar breaks it could hit me or the car etc. Thanks

I've removed everything in order to replace timing belt so I'm at the stage of loosening that big bolt on the harmonic balancer. I've put it in 4th gear handbrake on. When I go to turn it anti clockwise with a big bar the crank turns a little before resisting ( like 10 degrees). Things then tighten and I might be able to loosen it though I'm afraid of snapping the belt etc. My belt has about 10-15mm movement back and forth between the longest gap between pulleys. I can almost pull the belt off the camshaft pulleys without loosening anything it is that loose. Just wondering whether to heave ho on it or be very careful. I just don't want to bend a valve on it while I'm trying to loosen this bolt. Thanks

Should it come off pretty easy. I did find it but was having trouble removing - I even borrowed a tool that latches onto the back of it (i.e onto the hexagonal piece on the back) and you connect a 3/8" bar to it. Maybe if I remove the plug it may work better. I've decided to just do my timing belt first as I don't think the oil pressure is a problem. I wanted to check it in case it was the oil pump - in which case doing the timing belt I am almost at the pump. Meanwhile since I've played with it a bit I couldn't get it to read much beow the 2 mark on the stock gauge.. Thanks Duncan

I'm borrowing a gague off someone to check my oil pressure as my gauge often reads 0 at idle. I am trying to unscrew the sender unit without taking the oil filter off. I have a piece of high grip pad but I can't seem to loosen it. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks

Do I disconnect the oil pressure switch (near the oil filter) to check pressure with a gauge. In the R33 are there 2 tap in points i.e. one for switch (for dash light) and one for gauge? Do I have to drain oil or are these point high enough that I wion't spit oil everywhare? Thanks

About 100kPa at idle the manual says. is the oil pressure switch as labeeled in the manual give readign to both gauge and the light?

Yes that is what I am thinking - but what I've read says the gauge and light work off same sender? Maybe the gauge is faulty....

I have very low oil pressure reading on the stock gauge at idle when warm. Just above 0. The light on the dash for low oil pressure never comes on except for a split second when you crank over the car. I never hear any noises that sound like there is low oil pressure. Car has been like this for my 6 months of ownership and uses no il between changes etc. Just wondering at what pressure the light one the dash switches on at. Thanks

I have a few made now. I'll be replying to Pms over the weekend

Geez that's scary. I wonder if the bearing seized to cause this. SO the bolt sheared did it? Unlucky!

What did you do on yours Geoff - all the seals?

Thanks for that. So there is no real self adjusting of belt tension at all ok. I though the spring might do this. Anyway - how hard is it to do the crank seal? Or are you talking about just the cam seals? Doesn't seem like too hard a job..I just don't want to get it wrong!

Pm replied. Sorry, I will get to everyone over the next few days. I've been busy at work etc. I will make up some more over the next few days. Due to the amount of drill bits I've broken etc and the time involved the cost will be $20 including instructions on how to fit it (and how to fit aftermarket boost gauge), the piece, and clamps. I think it is still reasonable value as it shouldn't need adjusting (you can widen the hole easily with a drill if you want slightly more boost), looks stock, and allows you to return to stock in a minute. You also don't even need to disconnect any hoses except off the solenoid. You also don't wreck your solenoid by putting a constant earth to it (which I had before), down the track I may use it for an electronic boost control so I don't want to fry it.

Yeah I think I will. I can't see anything coming from the weep hole - but for around $150 it might be wirth it. I think I might do the 2 bearings aswell. Thanks

I'm doing a timing belt change but just thought I'd have a dude there to oversee the put together and get a receipt as I have a good used car warranty.

Yeah I do. I'll be making some more over the next few days. Most people are happy with 9-9.5psi. Not much gain on stock cooler over this. I can kind of tailor it to what you want slightly, but there will be a bit of variation between skylines (up to 0.5psi). All the R33s tested on have had a stock intercooler, but I guess front mount shouldn't change things too much, maybe will run slightly higher boost. I don't recommend over 9-9.5psi on the stock exhaust either.

Thanks

Hmm that's scary. This place called Mekong spares sell some for $104 for both. I was going to get those. THey aren't original - but japanese. My belt is really loose. Haven't pulled it down yet, but do you ever usually need to replace the spring??? Nissan wanted about $80 for the belt and $150 for the correct pump (RB25DET series 1 ...NOT the VL pump)