benl1981

Thanks guys - I found a post with the bearings costing $104 for both - they are not NSK but a japanese brand from a place Mekong spares in Sydney. I assume they are the pulley aswell i.e. bearing inside. Do people replace the spring aswell? I'm thinking that could be part of the problem? It has a bit of surface oxidation/discolouration. Geoff - DId you get a new key, or is thekey part of thhe crank? What I plan to do is... Timing belt the 2 pullley bearings Check what you said Geoff about the keyway etc Water pump ($130 from nissan) I don't think I will do any of the seals - they sound a bit of a hassle. Cheers

Somebody here was saying aftermarket have slotted hole to allow for both..wnet to supercheap and had a lookk at the powermax one but it only had the hole for RB30.

Do you guys have Series 1 RB25DETs? Apparenlty one bolt hole is different..is that a problem??? Thanks

Nice - does it come with a seal or do you gasket goo it on. Probably silly question, but you would wnat a good seal there, the missing bolt doesn't affect this? ABout how much did the pump cost?? Thanks

Hmm - conflict... I have a series 1 R33 RB25DET so I'm not sure. Probably like wahat gtst25 is saying it may not be a driect fit. Will have to download FAST - woudl that help clarify?

I pulled the top timing belt cover off - the timing belt is very loose and I think the noise was it hitting the timing belt cover. So I am not really driving it till I source all the parts and either do the timing belt myself or pay someone to do it. The car is at 97k so it was time to do it anyway

Would the peak rpm change the rating of the pump, I mean I don't want to put an RB30 one on and find it doesnt last due to it not being designed to take 7000rpm. What are good aftermarket ones?>>? Thanks

Cool. Thanks. If I did the handbrake and put in gear trick there is no chance of you stuffing your gearbox is there if the crank spins ..I saw 3LIT3 FORS3 mentioned this.

Just wondering if the VL water pump fits a series one R33 RB25DET... some threads say it does others don't. Anybody know prices for an RB25DET suitable pump. Anybody know a good aftermarket product and price? What is Nissan worth...?

I wasn't thinking of the claw type. A harmonic balancer puller is what is shown below. Which is similar to the cheapy I have. If these type are no good then I don't know what to use. Your dad sounds pretty handy, youre lucky

I've been reading up and found this post. I'm about to undertake a timing belt swap over. I have a puller that I bought at supercheap, I think it is called a harmonic balancer puller. Is this not right for the job? Also what is the best way to undo the crank pulley bolt? If you put it in gear and handbrake on and you use a breaker bar on it do you stand the chance of wrecking your gearbox if the crank spins? Is it hard to replace the crank seal once the pulley is off?? I heard somebody in a thread saying it took a long time just for this bit. Cheers

P.s. how much tension should be on the belt. I have taken the top cover off mine and there is quite a bit of deflection if you push on the belt between the top 2 camshaft pulleys. I'm not going to drive it much until I replace it. I think the mechanic was rightI think it has been hitting the belt cover... 1) WHAT is the best way to stop the crank spinning? I read somewhere you can bust your gearbox if you way put it in 5th and apply brakes to undo the bolt. If you just put it in 5th without putting on the brakes the worst it can do is rotate the wheels right? 2) Getting the pulley off. Is a cheap harmonic balancer puller not good for this job? 3) Is it hard to remove the crank timing gear to get to the crank seal? I heard a few people on hear say it is a real bitch. 4) How hard is it to get the cam seals..i.e remove rocker cover? I'm thinking maybe just do the 2 bearings, belt, water pump (maybe) There is no oil form crank or cam areas. ... The shop said it could be quite expensive if they run into trouble

Do I need to take the rocker cover off for this? So that I can secure the camshaft in appropriate location. Anybody done this?, do you have to be very careful to use right tool to secure the camshaft so you don't damage it. I'm just about to do timing belt. I'm wondering if it is necessary as there is no il around there. But then again don't want it to leak over the next 100k

If I replace the camshaft seals does this mean I have to take off the rocker cover so I can secure the cams to stop them from spinning when I want to tighten the pully wheel bolt. ALso do you guys just reuse the spring on the tensioner pulley. Or when you get a new pulley and bearing doe this come with it? Thanks

It's clear again...

Is the RB30 one a direct fit? Apparently it misses a bolt or something..and it is only $80?? From nissan or aftemarket?

I was wondering where the cheapest place in Sydney is to get a timing belt for R33 RB25 DET. I think nissan are about $95 or so aren't they? What's the best anyone has done? Also the seals? Cam and crank..and the bearings. I think I saw a thread saying about $60each for the 2 pulley bearings from a wholesaler or something. Cheers

Is it hard to get the correct tension on the belt?? Is it auto adjusting or do you have to set the tension pretty spot on. Is the crank seal shown below here. And to do the cam seals you have to take the pulley wheels off the camshafts? Do you guys just mark with a white pen for reference to make sure all the pulleys are in the same relative position when you reassemble. Thanks for thehelp so far

Dont people usually crank engine for split second with bar on chassis rail to loosen he nut. How about doing it up?/ Does a harmonic balancer puller usually get it off once nut is undone? I have done a lot repairs on cars but never a timing belt - so just trying to gather info before I start. Cheers

What seals should you replace when you do a timing belt on anRB25DET. The mehanic I spoke to reckoned crank and camshaft I think. I didn't think this was necessary as I wouldn't even be taking the camshaft pulleys off. Even the crank seal I didn't think would be necessary. Apparently the timing belt is hitting the cover so he thinks maybe the tensioner is dodgy. Also he said that the crank pulley can sometimes be very hard to get offf!!!

I know what you are saying but it is a little worse than you would expect. Another friends r33 doesn't do it this bad and the mechanic thought there may be something a little wrong.

Ok - since I got my R33 there has been a little harshness, you can hear noise from engine bay if you got to accelerate even softly from 1200rpm in say 2nd, 3rd or 4th. A mechanic told me today that he would have to pull the cam belt out to have a look as it seems to be from the front of the engine or around that area. Before this I was going to do the timing belt myself at home. So I don't now whether I should now. Has anyone solved it by replacing a tensioner pulley etc. I guess I'd have to try and find it when I strip it down - the only thing is I'm not doing this stuff all the time so I don't know whether things look bad. I was thinking of doing the water pump and the 2 bearings. THe mechanic said he would replaace those if they looked suspect. Any ideas or advice appreciated. P.S. Engine is RB25DET Thanks Ben

Hi mate just been searching and found this. But I have it in most gears, especially 3rd 4tha nad 5th at low rpm and you hit the throttle. Did you solve your problem. Thanks

Ok - since I got my R33 there has been a little harshness, you can hear noise from engine bay if you got to accelerate even softly from 1200rpm in say 2nd, 3rd or 4th. A mechanic told me today that he would have to pull the cam belt out to have a look as it seems to be from the front of the engine or around that area. Before this I was going to do the timing belt myself at home. So I don't now whether I should now. Has anyone solved it by replacing a tensioner pulley etc. I guess I'd have to try and find it when I strip it down - the only thing is I'm not doing this stuff all the time so I don't know whether things look bad. I was thinking of doing the water pump and the 2 bearings. THe mechanic said he would replaace those if they looked suspect. Any ideas or advice appreciated. P.S. Engine is RB25DET Thanks Ben

Ok I have copper ones now. I am currently testing on other skylines. I think it is safer if using the stock intercooler to run 9-9.5psi which is what the latest ones have been made to. Please note these are mostly for stock cars. Please check you have the solenoid shown below otherwise this piece will not work. If you want more boost you can easily drill out the provided piece (You will only need to take a 0.2mm bigger drill bit to make about 1-2psi increase). But it is better to run 9-9.5psi. Ok You will get instructions I put together with illustrations on how to fit this piece and how to fit a boost gauge. And you wiill get the copper piece for $15 delivered. Sorry about the price increase but I have broken a lot of small drill bits etc I do have a few different size drill bits so you can let me know what boost you want to run but it will vary up to 1psi between cars so I want to really be a bit cautious and let you drill it out if you want more boost. The drill bits are only about $2 and you shouldn't break it as you will only be widening the hole a small amount