benl1981

Fk - that's a lot for a tie rod. Surely you can get a generic one

What about R33 ones - do they fit? Are they easier to source?

Looking at getting one of these. Around the 150 mark if in good condition. Thanks. Preferably in Sydney

The plastic bit that goes behind the intercooler in front of the wheel. I think it must wrap around to the front bar? Sits in the wheel well. Around $20-30ish Thanks Ben

I will have these pieces ready to go by late next week I think. They will now be a brass fitting but will still not be able to be picked up by others as being nonstock. To cover costs $15 Delivered. Still a cheap way to gain some power and low end torque. The fitting is also more robust. Please note it is advisable that you fit a boost gauge to verify that peak boost is in the 8-11psi range peak. All the skylines I've fitted it to so far have been 9.5-10psi holding steady.

R34 has the standard solenoid as does the R33 right?

Very good to hear. So did you have to remove the exhaust first? Was it hard to do in the garage..i.e jacking the car up enough. Di you first jack it from under the diff? Cheers - thanks for all the help

Cool. Yeah just checked your photos out. Looks nice. The sedan is pretty practical. Mines only a series 1 but I like it. So the R34 cooler went in ok?? Did it pretty much bolt up? Did you feel any power/torque difference just from the cooler? You have/had a lot of skylines! Did just jap supply you one in good condiition? Was yours causing vibration? Mine is! I checked the wheelbase in the manual - sure enough you're right!!

I'll check it out but the guy seemed to think there was linear potentiometers but I don't know if there is...

So you have a sedan? That's good to hear it shares the same wheelbase and tailshaft. Thanks for the advice.

I was under the impression the 4 door was a little longer. Is this true.? I'm just trying to source a 2nd hand one as mine has a fault Thanks

What about the tailshaft?

I don't believe they are. The guys at Unique auto sport I think told me they had a prob with a 4 door car, it was slightly longer. Mybe not then I'll have to verufy somehow. Thanks

Hi Henros. My Hicas light comes on quite often. I had the car at the mechanic for something else and he did the diagnostic but isn't sure if it is the front or rear sensor. Apparently they are a linear potentiometer? I don't know much about it but sounds like you were able to fix the problem. Cheers, Ben

I'd like to know more details on this please.

bump

In Sydney if possible. Many thanks

You really do need the solenoid placed in the system to start with as you should be expelling the bled off air somewhere. The standard solenoid has an inlet from the T piece between intercooler pipe and actuator, the outlet of the solenoid is to a vacuum hose that goes back into the inlet (before the turbo.otherwise the pressure would not let the air escape). You can do it with any turbo car but the correct way to do it would be to insert a T piece in the hose going to the actuator and place a restriction in the Teed off hose, but then channel it back into the intake (not really neccesary). So you can do it with any car yet more experimentation would be needed to get the right size orifice etc. It's just that this seems to be good consistent boost with stock or slightly modified R33s. If you just place a restricion in the hose it could lead to delayed boost response and strange boost curves I would think. I have had a fair bit of demand , I have actually run out of the pieces that I use. I will try and source some more and reply to PMs seeing that people seem keen. Thanks Ben

Hi. I don't think this will work on an RB20Det as I don't believe it has the solenoid shown in the picture. Sorry about that

Yes it is That's my fiends skyline, mine isn't quite that clean No they don't spike much. They are Better than a valve. Also, when I tested the boost with the standard solenoid ( i.e. before I changed to this piece), boost would hit 0.6 bar then back to just under 0.55bar. These are slightly better peak boost to 0.7 bar but trails back to just over 0.65bar. So you are not loosing boost control over the standard setup Probably about the same control in terms of spiking as stock, thowever with this piece there is more boost at low rpm = more low end torque. Cheers

Here it is in place.

Nissan Skyline R33 Boost Modification Standard Boost? Standard R33 Nissan Skylines run 4 Psi boost below 4500rpm, above this a solenoid is activated which allows boost to reach 7 to 8psi. This is why standard skylines feel quite FLAT low in the rev range! What will this do and what is it? An orifice piece that is predrilled to the correct size bypasses enough air to allow 10psi of boost. This orifice will be placed between the hoses that currently run to the standard sloenoid. 7psi should then be achieved by about 3000rpm in 1st and 2nd gear and 2500rpm in higher gears. 10psi will be reached slightly after this. How to do it? The fitting of the equipment involves simply unplugging the hoses off the solenoid and inserting the piece provided. This should only take 5 minutes to install. I will also provide instructions and pictures on the installation process. What's provided? 2 orifices will be provided - one that hold 6-7psi and one that holds 10psi. The 7psi orifice can be drilled out to achieve other boost levels higher than 7psi if desired. Is it better than a simple bleed valve? In some ways it is. There is no adjustment so there is no chance of boost altering when you don't want it to. Easier to fit, plug and play. I have done the homework determining the correct orifice size - so it should be right to go. Disclaimer: It is a good idea to verify the boost with a reasonably accurate gauge. With any modification please do this at your own risk and be careful

Put another one on a friends car and now he wants to keep it. Now my car is on low boost..have to make some more

Thanks a heap mate. So does the fitting on the coil have a similar fitting like it would coming off a distributor . I would have thought there would be an electical lead to the coil and the coil sits on the spark plut so the fitting on the bottom of the coil will only suit sitting on top of a sparky. Or is there a short lead from coil to sparky. I'll open the workshop manual maybe I'll understand better then instead of bugging you guys. Thanks

Hey there - thanks for the reply. I don't really understand what you mean about an old lead between coil and spark plug. Do you have to pull the centre cover off to do this. All cars I've done this on have haed a distibutor i.e. no indiidual coil packs. Thanks