benl1981

Hey thanks Predator and Duncan I found this for an R34 - it makes sense now I think R33 will be the same. I'll give it a go, I've been fixing my brothers camry onto the the skyline soon. Does anybody have the part no for the front wheel bearing of an R33? will I have trouble getting the bearing out of the hub? I will probably take the hub to a mechanic and let them do it with the press etc. I priced Nissan and they were $76 - I think I can do better. I guess once I get the hub nut undone I will disconnect the hub at points below. I think it will be easier to undo the axle nut while it is in car so I can use the brake as Duncan was saying. THanks

Yeah I took that cap off and could see the nut and also the ABS wheel. Bit awkward I reckon. Does the hub come off easily once you take this nut off? Might give it a go tonight but would like to see it in a manual first. Thanks

Mechanic confirmed the suspect wheel bearing. I rang up Nissan and they sell the bearing for $76 - I thought they may just sell the hub!! Anybody got info on how it comes apart please!!

Maybe lose 5kw. A new engine will take about 10k -20k kms before it loosens up. In fact when I was working at ford even some of the other engineers thought the cars that had done 90k kms etc were quicker than the ones that were near new. Most R33s would have more than this amount of kays and obviously older than AU falcons but I still reckon most of the good ones would be within 5-10kw of showroom spec

I dont see why because they are brand new they would lose less. There is no major technology breakthrough in terms of gearbox/drivetrain. Maybe they are talking it up!!!

I tried emule there seems to be alot of files available but when I go to download no downloads will start! It says there are heaps of sources but then when you go into "transfer" it says there are 0 sources and the download doesnt start. Any ideas?

I'm just wondering whether skylines lose a lot gettig from the flywheel to RWKW? A stock R33 gtst Flywheel = 187kw At the wheels = 140kw???? I saw an article in the latest motor/wheels magazine on VY SS and BA V8 falcon upgrades. I think the SS stock was 245kw Flywheel and 221kw at the treads. After $1000 rechip it was 240RWKW and 1/4mile in about 12.8!!!!! and 0-100 in mid 5s If these are the right figures then there is minilmal drivetrain losses with the holden compared to the skylines....

Is the R33 just the engine manual?? Im chasing the other bits like axle etc

surely someone has pulled the hub off on an R33 even if they rarely do bearings! or put me onto a source that has the axle section for an R33 service manual. thanks

Is that each? Any more info?

Thanks again. 1. So at what pressure does the wastegate open slightly? Assuming 5psi is stock, will it open a very small amount at say 2psi? 2. So with a standard needle valve that I set to 10psi the wastegate will still partially open at around 4 psi or some small value? Hence Jaycar is better!

Thanks for answering my questions SK. I see - it doesn't reduce the turbo lag, just the way the boost actually builds, makes sense. I think you've sold me on the jaycar one. SOunds like a worthy investment. Why do you lose boost as revs increase? Is it because the engine takes in more air up the higher rpm and the wastegate actuator can not respond quick enough? Nice one. So at 10psi is there a significant pressure drop across the factory cooler. Would the R34 unit help this much?

Can somebody host it please?? I'm not going well with the mule I can only really find a R33 file that is 149mb which is the same size as the engine manual I have so I'm guessig its just the engine manual. I need the axle section! thanks

Hi - I downloaded emule but what sever should I connect to?

That's cool but it doesn't seem to show how the front hub comes apart etc. I'm actually after that for an R33 but thoguht this might have it to. No good

I just fitted a gauge. Around 0.55 bar (8psi) with a constant earth on the soenoid (r33 rb25det). I'm really only wanting about 10 psi, I'm wondering whether the Jaycar boost controller will be worthwhile. I can get a needle valve for $13 to replace where the solenoid is currently. WIll the anti creep of the jaycar setup reduce lag in 1st and 2nd gear much? To only squezze a few exta psi I'm wondering whether the hassle and cost of the jaycar is warranted>.. I find in 4th and 5th gear you can get the boost very early and by small throttle openings due to the higher load, yet in 1st and 2nd it takes quite a throttle opening and more revs to get boost. Also the engine has a fuel cut at certain boost pressure and a knock sensor. Is it unlikely that you will blow your engine if you run too much boost or run it too lean or advanced?

bump

How much better is a power fc if your only going for 200Rwkw or running standard turbo? Does it cost more to tune a power fc properly?

So do you think for around 180-190kw on standard turbo that you need to adjust ignition. If you lean it out a little that is using the jaycar or similar.

Wow. Ok. Thanks. Is that an RB25 turbo highflowed? ABout how much did that cost if you dont mind me asking and is there any more lag than the stock unit? So you dont get the timing to far advancesd when trying to lean it out?

Would the fuel adjuster work ok with a bigger turbo and front mount on R33. I.e if you were wanting about 200rwkw?

Well i took the caliper off and the noise was still there. There was so many dead insects caught in the back between the disc and hub. I took them all out and there was less noise. There is a dust cap at the BACK and the big nut is at the back also. I think I'm going to have to pull it apart and some stage to replace. The bearing is quite noisy when you spin the wheel orr disk. Also you can see the disk is moving axially when you spin it. I guess it could be warped slightly but possibly the bearing is causing this. Anybody got a manual for an R33 showing this. The S15 manual I have shows a nut at the front!

SO could I replace the bearing myself or once I get the hub of is the bearing a press fit in the hub? I guess it would be. Thanks slow r31. I'll see if it is the beairng first though

Oh sorry. Yeah that sounds reasonable. I'll take a look. Ok so the hub comes off the stub axle. I.e. I shouldnt have to take out the whole steering knuckle unless I can't get the bearing off the stub axle or something. Thanks

Do you mean the dust cover at the back? I'll investigate. But when I spin that hub there is quite a rumbly noise. So if I find it is the bearing how does it all come apart - what shoul I end up with in my hand. THhe whole hub with the steering axis atached to it? Thanks